Road handlebar angst

[TxDoc]

Ahi, too bad I don't have that one, I'm trying to keep cleaning the closet and adding bars to the free gear section

So, let's see if we can figure out something more about the wrists... you've been riding with a 100mm stem @ 0 degrees, and now you are trying 10. Where exactly was the wrist pain, and did you feel it more when riding on the hoods, on the top, or in the drops?

[elk]

actually I think my stem is 80mm long...it's a Ritchey adjustable.

let's see...I think riding the top was the worst...the hoods--with relaxed hands and my weight more on the heel of my hand--- the best, and the primary pain is at the base of my thumbs...which may also be partially due to the mac laptop...but it is noticably worse when riding. knock wood...i have no other pain issues with the bike.

i can find the photo of my pony for ya

[elk]

here she is....my little Morgan horse.... before I swapped the bars, angled the stem up a few degrees and got brake shims:

[TxDoc]

Where is your saddle compared to your handlebar? And how is your weight distributed, do you feel like most of the weight ends up on your forearms/wrists/hands?
Never mind, ignore the question - I see the photo now...

[TxDoc]

Did the shop fit you at that saddle height and top tube length? In other words, are both the correct setup for your leg/torso/arms measurements?

[TxDoc]

Well, here's what I'm thinking... and why I ask all of these questions... ;D
My first impression is that you should be moving the opposite way and try to bring your bars down instead of up...
Here's a disclaimer... I am NOT an expert or anything, and I haven't seen you on the bike, so take it with some caution... end of disclaimer
So anyway, the first impression is that your stem is way too high on top of the steerer tube. The first thing I would try is to move some of the spacers on TOP of the stem.
So in practice, take out the headset, take out the stem, and take two of the spacers out (I can see three in the photo). Then put the stem back, and put the other two spacers on top of the stem, and then put back the headset.
That way you would have the saddle a little higher than the stem, and you can lower your back a little more. What that would do is bring your shoulder closer to the handlebar. That allows your elbows to bend, and relax. With your elbows and arms relaxed, the weight would be more distributed on your seat and pedals, and less on your hands. Less weight on the hands/wrists - less chance for tension and for a posture that would cause pain.
Some other benefits could come from this: for example the ability to ride in the drops as well, without strain and therefore without pain. Also, your back would be a little flatter, and that makes you more aerodynamic, so you can cycle with less effort.
What do you think? And, most important, do you have a picture of you on your bike, showing your riding position?

[TxDoc]

Sorry, I'm posting in bites and pieces tonight...
Another doubt I have is the handlebars - maybe something with a deeper drop would help? Sometimes we try to solve reach problems by buying short/shallow handlebars - while truly we should try to work on the fit first, and then think of swapping equipment.
Do you have different bars now?

[elk]

interesting...i was operating under the impression that the saddle should be level with the bars or a little bit lower for more comfort....your eye sees the opposite problem!

I do have different bars on now...it was a small hands issue...and the ergo bend on the ritcheys (in te photo above) made it near impossible to reach the brakes in the drops. So I got something close in size but not ergo....ergo () the Cinelli Little Wing that's on there now. http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...1&category=636

I'm not sure it was the best choice, only because the bar seems cramped and narrow in comparison...which could also be due to the clumsy placement of gel pads on them...but I do miss the little sweep back on the Ritcheys.
I also neglected to note the placement of the brifters when I changed...so I wonder if some of the increase in hand pain is due to that. And my plan is to take the pads out from under the tape.

When I went looking for a steel road bike I was helped by a guy in one of the LBS who is a fitter...and he basically told me I needed a frame under 48" with a TT less than 52. This made me realize I had passed over several bikes I thought were too small (???the 50 had felt too big and I assumed the next size down would be too small...why? IDK) Went back to another store and tried the 47cm Aurora and it felt perfect. I bought it at a co-op without too much fitting advice at all.

I did feel confident in what the fiter had told me, and had studied the numbers enough to feel secure buying this bike. Friends with a great deal of experience have told me its a good fit....HOWEVER.....no one has studied me on the bike and given me enough info to make informed choices about components....

wow...i have a lot to say on this subject!!!

i have a photo from the winter of me on the original set up. I'll eat supper and then go get them!:

[skunk]

FSA Wing Pro Compact does not have a classic round bend.

There are no classic round bend bars with a wing top that I know of.

[rij73]

FSA Wing Pro Compact does not have a classic round bend.

There are no classic round bend bars with a wing top that I know of.

I believe you are wrong about that...

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/ro...183.221.0.html

"At a 125mm drop and 80mm reach with round drops, you can easily find your sweet spot in the drops without having to force your hands to conform to the flat area of an anatomic drop."