Gear for little people

[mayanorange]

They're both definite possibilities. I'll report back after the bike shop.

[mayanorange]

Well that was a waste of my time. Well, not totally- he adjusted my derailleurs and showed me how to wrap my bars and gave me tips on pedaling. But when it came to fit, it was a waste. They had a ritchey wing topped 40 that bent back (bad for wrist) and something ancient from the basement that may have been a nitto that was 40 and felt okayish, but they didn't have another stem to put in to try the ritchey or any other bars to try. Oh, and I knew more about clamp sizes and bar shapes than he did! Sigh.

So do I go to Landrys and get a proper fit? Or should I just try TxDoc's bars? I am a biomechanist, so I understand a lot of the fitting issues and have read a lot, but I can't step back and look at myself, so am doing some by tape measure then by feel from there or just by feel. I have a cycleops trainer which helps- as long as I can reach my tools I can adjust while sitting there Maybe there's something more I'm missing?

[TxDoc]

I am a biomechanist, so I understand a lot of the fitting issues and have read a lot, but I can't step back and look at myself, so am doing some by tape measure then by feel from there or just by feel. I have a cycleops trainer which helps- as long as I can reach my tools I can adjust while sitting there Maybe there's something more I'm missing?

Ok, I am missing the whole picture here... what is the geometry of your bike and what's your current setup (saddle height, stem, bars angle...)?
And well yes, a professional fit would always be best!
Now, with your profession you may get by and do it yourself - with mirrors and some help (like someone taking your measurements and angles while you are on the bike on the trainer). It will take much longer than doing it in a pro bike shop. Of course it's cheaper, but again, a good fit is very important...
Anyway, I just placed the bars with some other stuff on the TE yard sale, if you decide to try them let me know and I can scratch them from that post
But seriously what is the geometry of the bike? I think I'm quite confused now at what the reach problem is
As a side note: when you find out that you know more about bikes than the shop owner (and your name is not Lance Armstrong or Jeannie Longo), then you need to change bike shop!!!
Good luck!

[mayanorange]

Ok, I am missing the whole picture here... what is the geometry of your bike and what's your current setup (saddle height, stem, bars angle...)?

Pic of my current setup at the bottom. It's a 54 and here's the specs from bikepedia: http://bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeS...4301&Type=bike I don't have official geometries but I took a few measurements. My measurements: height 5' 7.5", inseam 91cm, around the torso (looped around crotch and shoulder) 155cm, arm length 60cm. Current saddle height 92cm from pedal at the bottom of the stroke (I like to point my toes a bit). Current reach for center of bar clamp to center of seat clamp 63cm.

As for the reach problem, basically I just wanted my bars a bit higher since I have my seat rather high for toe pointing. I went for a ride yesterday and I felt a bit cramped in my body but my arms were so splayed to reach the hoods at 44, that I can't go further out yet. I think once I get a smaller bar, I'll want to increase my reach to closer to the original (90mm) but still bring it up a bit (so maybe 100-105 but 20-30 degree), which helps my wrist and flabby tummy deal better.

[TxDoc]

I see your higher seat as an advantage actually. If you keep the bars leveled or use a low-rise stem (5 degrees or 8), because that would allow you to flatten your back and be 1-more comfortable (!!!) and 2-more aerodynamic. By raising the bars to the same level of the stem, you are basically neglecting yourself that advantage.
Also, if I understand your wrist problem (not sure I got it right...), I think that the more upright position is putting extra strain on your wrist and cousing more pain. A correct flat-back position, especially with your hands in the drops or on top of the hoods, should allow your elbows to bend more and your wrists to be in a natural position, relieving the pain.
Yes different bars will help, but I would definitely consider changing the riding position a bit. You could try a 5 degree stem (80 or 90mm), so that your seat is higher than the handlebars, and you can rotate the pelvis more and achieve a flat back - or almost flat

In my opinion (and hey I am NO expert, just ride a bike sometimes) this change may solve many of your problems, including reach AND wrist pain.
Since you have a stationary trainer, you could just give it a try - although efficiently rotating the pelvis takes time, so it will be a gradual change from your current upright position to a flat-back more aero position.

As per toe-pointing... despite most coaches preaching against it (with good reasons) - we occasionally see toe-pointers among pro cyclists and champions. I guess you have to find your own balance, and figure out the position that allows you to pedal comfortably while getting the most out of your power output. The problem with toe-pointing is that some of the energy that you use to pedal is not efficiently transferred to the pedal/crank because of that position - so virtually you could go faster by using a more efficient position on the pedal. But again, finding the right angles take time, so if you are comfortable with some toe-pointing right now that can be ok as well - just make sure that it does not put unnecessary strains on the ankle or other parts of the body.
Hope this helps!

[mayanorange]

TxDoc- I think you're right that I should be lower and maybe even further out. I'm trying to get a bent elbow to reduce strain on wrist, but with the wide bars I end up having my elbows in a weird rotation which is tiring and then they get straightened, hurting my wrist and making me feel like I should sit up to put the weight on my tush instead.

I rode over to landrys and eventually managed to catch the fitter- he measured me at 37 and suggested a 38 because of my wrist. They couldn't find the ones they were supposed to have, so have an appointment with him tuesday night. It's worth it to figure it out quickly and know I'm actually where I belong, not just where I think I do! He's suggested the FSA compact bars in a 40 (which is 38 in the hoods) which looks like it could be very comfy- I was wondering why bars usually don't taper into the top. I asked if he knew the Deda 4 girls and he was hesitant since it's 38 outside to outside (thus a 36 really) and he might not want so much reach for me. We'll see what comes of tuesday- it's much nicer to talk to someone who really knows their stuff.

[TxDoc]

The FSA is very nice - and I think it has a shorter reach so it could help as well. I am glad you got a good fit, that is really priceless - working with real professionals changes everything, doesn't it?
It looked like the first bike shop did not really treat you appropriately. It seemed also strange to me that given your reach/wrist issues they decided to fit you on the Aurora that has sort of a touring/upright geometry. I would have thought that they'd suggest something like the Xenith instead - equipped with a short stem and a short-reach handlebar... but hey, they are the bike expert so I guess they must have had a good reason

So give the FSA a try and see how your hands feel. But still, once you have bars of the right size, consider leveling your stem and trying out how you do with a more flat position. That may help the wrist and also save some fatigue. We never think how important aerodymanics is until we try it...
Good luck!