Here is a good article on gearing.
http://www.cyclingsite.com/lists_art...earing_101.htm
Brenda
Here is a good article on gearing.
http://www.cyclingsite.com/lists_art...earing_101.htm
Brenda
Ok, so if you have 2005, then you probably have a Pro frame, because there wasn't anything between Comp and Pro back then. That came with Dura-Ace 53/39 and 12-25. There is absolutely nothing of lesser quality about that, though the Pro frame now is better carbon than it was in 2005 (and costs well over $3k). You got it for a good price because it's really old stock. That has nothing to do with the components or gearing. Specialized has started putting compacts on a LOT of bikes these days, but for many, that's a deterrent. It all depends on what's the best for you. You still got a great deal on a great bike. It just doesn't have the right gearing for you. That's fixable. You can even buy a new crankset and eBay the old one.
this is the exact bike I bought:
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkM...74&language=US
So you think this is a Pro model? I am so confused...
your link pointed to Roubaix elite. A very nice bike. Good components. 105 front deraillure and ultegra rear. 53/39 chainring and 12 x 25 cassette, 9 speed cassette.
You could swap out the 12 x 25 cassette with something easier. Only ones I could find were 11 x 32 or was it 34. If you do this though, you may have to change your rear deraillure. The ultegra rear deraillure may not be able to handle the wide gearing combination. That will add to the cost.
Another route is to swap out your front chainring and spider to a compact one. like Aicabsolut says, check the crank arm length.
You would have to price out the difference.
Another thing you need to do, you probably don't want to hear it, is you need to condition yourself. The bike is set up for someone in pretty good condition. My suggestion with your training ride is:
1. do easy ditance rides. 20 miles then 25 miles thn 30 miles. you want to keep your heart rate below 80%. preferably around 70% or so or unil you can do this at 70% rate.
2. intermix training days with shorter training of hill reps. 2- 5 minutes of climb come back down, rest by easy pedalling till your heart rate is back down. then climb again. do this 2 to 10 times depending on your condition.
3. DO TAKE A REST DAY from cycling.
4. get plenty of sleep and make sure your diet is healthy and balanced.
5. don't combine long distance with lots of hills until your body is in better shape.
Lastly, remember that the bike is only as fas as what you can do. It's not a car, it's not a motorcycle. Your body is the engine. I think I've said it before here, Lance could be riding on a old beach cruiser, and he can ride circles around on my racing bike as if I'm standing still. There is no way I could keep up with such athletes.
If the gearing is too much for you, then you may have to change the cassette + rear deraillure or go to a compact double with possibly a shorter crank arm. 170mm or ven 165mm if you are short.
smilingcat
I think it would be time for violette to go and talk to her LBS and see what THEY say. This has been mulled over plenty on this board. oops I almost misspelled that last word.
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OK last post;;
The LBS dealer said I could change to a comp.
Violette- alpinerabbit is right, go talk with your LBS. I had a similar gear problem (except just the opposite as yours) when I sold my Giant OCR 1 which had a 52,42,30 and bought a Specialized Ruby Expert which had a 50,39,30. After several rides I realized I really missed my 52 chainring as I was gearing out and couldn't stay on DH's wheel...BIG PROBLEM. I spend most of my time in the big chainring (but appreciate my granny gears when I need them) so I really noticed the difference. We called the LBS and tried to simply change out the 50 for a 52. Unfortunately the chainring set was specifically designed for the Ruby and the 52 would not shift properly with the 39, 30 chainrings. My LBS solved the problem by contacting his Specialized rep who took the whole front chainring set back and replaced it with a new Ultegra front 52,39,30. Cost to me...nothing but a huge plate of fresh chocolate cookies. Good customer service is everything and it payed off to the LBS as we have since purchased a total of 6 bikes from him and sent him many new customers. Give your LBS a chance and let them suggest some solutions or simply see if they might trade the bike back in for something else. Even if you need to spend a few hundred dollars more on a different bike, you might be glad you did in the long run. Gearing is just as important as bike fit and if the gear set up doesn't work for you, you won't be happy. Just my 2 cents...
Well about my LBS;
I've been talking/fighting with them all morning; this is what they said, among other things...
"We will change your crank to a compact crank for you, which includes labor for $220.00 + tax. You got a bargain on that bike with very good components."
I went to a few dealers and they coulnd't believe someone would sell me a bike with that size gears. Anyway, that's it for that LBS, they'll never have my business again. They could have at least given me a break on the labour, but they wouldn't hear of it!!
Violette, you've created a really great discussion. I'm really sorry that you're experiencing my very worst fearswith my coming move from a mountain bike to a road bike! I'd move on as well to a shop that is going to treat you like an appreciated customer with the intent of keeping you long term.
I don't want to hijack your thread - but I do want to get similar input... would you mind if I tack on my own question?
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Here it is... (Folks, if what I'm doing is a thread no-no, give me a quick heads up and I'll move this elsewhere.)
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Thanks to everyone for the great information and links/resources. I'm going from a mountain bike 42/32/23 & 12/28 -- to a road bike. And I do use that granny gear frequently with no shame.
Here's what the bike shop says (I haven't sent him my current gearing yet):
About the gears. With a triple your top gear would be 117.0 gear inches, for your high gear and 32.4 inches for your lowest gear. This with a normal triple front 52/39/30, rear 12/25. With a compact front 50/34, 12/27 in production at this time, your high gear would be 112.5 gear inches, and the low would be 34 gear inches.
Shimano plans a 11/28 cassette for 09 that would give you a high of 122.7 gear inches, and a low of 32.8 gear inches. So in the end, the compact with a 12/27 now or soon a 11/28 casette would be the way to go.
I'm worried about the change - and can't seem to wrap my head around the numbers. Thanks for the link to Sheldon's calculator. I'm trying to figure out what the "granny" level on the compact would equate to with my current set up.
Am I doing this right?!If so to H*(( with the compact.
All advice is appreciated.
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