What lube do you use? I find that, depending on the conditions, a lube that is too wet or too dry or too whatever will affect how the drivetrain feels. It will sound and feel like it's skipping, but really it's not. For example: I liked using ProLink because it seemed to get the chain cleaner easier (I don't use a cleaner/degreaser generally, just a cleaning lube, and when in sandy climates, I'll occasionally use mild pressure from a hose). However, in cold dry weather, ProLink worked pretty well. Any other time, the drivetrain felt like crap. A waxier cleaning lube, Rockn'Roll Gold is now my favorite, though it will take a few applications to get the chain very clean. It is thin--much thinner than something like White Lightning, so I do have to use more of it and take care of my chain more often. In addition to wiping down and relubing the chain after most rides, I will take a brush to the cassette and be sure to wipe grit off the rings as more goo gets shed from the chain. I am a lighter weight rider, but I do a variety of shifting over rolling terrain, in traffic, and in races. With this approach, the only skipping or grinding I'll feel is when I need to make a slight cable adjustment or when the chain has gotten noticeably dirty. In fact, I got into my obsessive compulsive drivetrain maintenance after locking up the chainrings a couple of times (chain got wedged) with a mildly dirty chain. I just love how much more smoothly the bike runs. I don't think that proper regular maintenance will destroy your chain. Daily degreasing and using harsher cleaners? Maybe. A cleaning lube? Doubtful. It may appear that more grit is flying around, but really, it's the chain shedding all the grit. Like I said, my chain has survived over 5k miles. I'm getting nervous about it now, but the shop (and my ruler) keep telling me it's ok.
What chain are you using? SRAM makes pretty durable chains. 105 or Ultegra level Shimano chains are also good (what I have). DA ones can be a little more fragile. I just have a hard time believing that your chains are getting that bad after only 1000 miles. I can see that by chain #3 you are starting to do some damage to a couple of cogs in the cassette. But damn, that still seems excessive. I mean, there are plenty of heavy guys out there in the mountains getting a few thousand miles out of their chains.
Boeshield works nicely here in the soggy PNW.
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
Pedro's Chainj. Vegetable oil-based, no toxic mineral spirits, doesn't attract too much grit and really stays on in the wet.
Easy chain check, no tools required: shift onto the big chainring, grab the chain at the front of the ring and pull the chain away from the chainring. If you can expose a whole tooth, replace the chain.
Last edited by OakLeaf; 05-14-2008 at 06:35 PM.
Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler
My LBS is giving me the 1000 mile guideline for chain replacement as well. The guy at my shop says its the 10 speeds - the narrower chain wears more quickly. My shop measured the chain and said it was getting worn - perhaps their stretch allowance is lower than necessary?
I just replaced my first chain on the Madone at 1.5 years and 6,300 miles. It's an Ultegra 10 speed. It was just barely stretched.....I'd been checking it. The cassette and chainrings were fine. Again, another lightweight rider who spins and shifts on the lighter side. Mr. who is heavier and a masher has broken a chain and bent a chainring. I'm also pretty meticulous about keeping my bike clean.
"Being retired from Biking...isn't that kinda like being retired from recess?" Stephen Colbert asked of Lance Armstrong
Drive trains will last almost forever if you keep them clean and lubed. I replaced my Dura-Ace chain at around 4,500 miles and it was still well within the 50% limit, I'm guessing it could have gone another 4,500. I'm a bigger rider pushing 200 lbs with gear. Cassette should last several chains.
I go through a couple bottles of lube a year ($20)
New shifter cables about every year ($20)
Chain every 4000 - 6000 miles ($40)
Brake cables can go longer ~ 2 years ($20)
Brake pads get 2+ years ($30)
Tires, not quite a year (I run 2 rear for 1 front so 3 tires = $120)
Cassette, every couple years ($150)
Bar tape (2 x year, it doesn't wear out, I just like to change colors = $25)
Chainrings, mine still look good.
I ride around 4,000+ miles a year, and keep the bike as clean as possible and well lubed.
I've been using Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube for a long time. Probably since it is the most commonly available lube. I guess my track record with chain wear doesn't recommend it. But then again, dh uses it as well, and doesn't experience the same kind of chain wear that I do (he's also at least 70 pounds lighter...). I think the chains I've been using were SRAM (At least, the time I asked them to send me home with a chain, that's what I was given). I suppose I could have erred on the side of over cleaning with this bike, but dang, over the winter, the average ride left a very thick layer of heavy sand and grit over every inch of the bike and nside each chain link --which would not budge with even my most concerted efforts to wipe it off. I did use degreaser (the neon pink bike wash somebody here was just talking about) about once a week.
I'll have to look into the cleaning lube.
Regarding chain and cassette wear, I have found two schools of thought here in Vancouver.
School A
Ride it 'til it skips. Change nothing until you're seriously skipping, then change the chain and cassette (and maybe a chainring). Of course do proper maintenance in the meantime.
School B
Change the chain often to lengthen the life of your cassette.
I am lighter than you are, but I've gotten over 8,000 km with School A, and I'm quite fussy with how well my bike performs. According to the chain-measurer gadget, the chain was overstretched at about 3,000 km. My bike person told me not to worry about it. I'm not racing or anything though, so it's not critical for me. The other thing is that I use my cogs quite evenly. My partner, on the other hand, uses only 2-3 gears at the back, which always get worn quickly.
My bike is all Ultegra 10 speeds, so changing the chain is expensive (used to be around $80, must be much cheaper now). I gave School A a chance and it's been relatively successful. You might want to experiment...
Umm... everyone here has definitely given you LOTS of good advice! I generally replace chain/cassette each season for my customers that ride 3000-5000 miles. As someone else mentioned, the chainrings generally get replaced every 2-3 years... it simply depends on the care of the bike from the customer and the quality of the rings... some people are fortunate to have them last a bit longer. As for tires, it generally depends on what type of tires you run and the mileage that you ride.... perhaps replacing them once a year if you continue riding the amount that you did last year. The rain can definitely have a LOT to do with how everything lasts, be sure to wipe everything done after a wet ride, take a file and file down your brake pads to get any of the debris out etc...
Personally, I haven't changed brake pads in 3-4 years, change the chain every 1500 miles which generally allows me to replace the cassette every other time, tires get replaced a couple of times a year, and the chain rings have nOT been replaced yet.(5 years old)
Good luck with the remainder of the season and hope everyones advice helps!