OakLeaf took the words out of my mouth. Make sure the cable isn't slipping through it's anchor. The cable shouldn't be changing every 100 miles. Also check every place where the cable enters and exits the housing, so see that the housing is intact, without wire stands poking from it, and the ferrules are not crushing or splitting.
Is this an MTB? I was told that the cable crossed routing works well on MTBs but isn't as recommended on road bikes. Make sure that the cable doesn't contact the frame anywhere because of the crossed routing.
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05-06-2008, 04:33 AM #1
Grease Monkey
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- Jan 2006
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Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
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05-06-2008, 07:22 AM #2
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It's a road bike. The guys at this shop say that's how they do it. No frame contact. Only contact is with the other cable at the cross point. The housing is brand new and looks fine, but it has always made a loud rattle (almost a creak) where the ferrule meets the top barrel adjuster if the cable moves just right (but only on that side). The cable shows no signs of fraying. The rear bolt is tight.
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05-06-2008, 10:55 AM #3
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Ok, so someone told me that the cable may not have been "pre-streched" (seated properly at the housing ends). I put the chain in the smallest cog, loosened both barrel adjusters, yanked sideways on the exposed inner cable, and I was able to take up a bunch of slack at the pinch that I couldn't before. Then I reset the indexing, and so far it seems much improved on the stand. Let's hope it holds on the road!
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