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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    612
    A lower priced alternative is to replace the rear derailleur with a mountain derailleur. This would allow you to put a nice mountain cassette on your bike - something like an 11-32. You would probably also need a new chain. If you keep the parts you remove, then you can switch it back out once you return from the trip. This will probably be cheaper than a compact crankset/bb/possible front derailleur.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    2,024
    I concur with bike4ever. In fact, I recommend an 11-34. That will get you up most anything, and you can still easily interchange it with a tighter cassette for flat land stuff later.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,498
    What's your budget? I'll be the contrarian here...

    A mountain cassette and derailleur is obviously the cheapest way to go, but you lose so many of the in-between gears that you're almost always pedaling at a cadence that isn't ideal for you. My legs aren't strong enough for a corncob any more (and honestly, I only ever put one on my race wheel, not the ones I used for training), but I definitely miss even one tooth in between cogs.

    As for interchanging cassettes on the road, I don't know about that - maybe on a long unsupported tour you might want to carry a spare cassette and a chain whip anyway, but readjusting the derailleur is a pain, especially without a workstand.
    Last edited by OakLeaf; 04-16-2008 at 07:37 AM.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    2,059
    Quote Originally Posted by OakLeaf View Post
    A mountain cassette and derailleur is obviously the cheapest way to go, but you lose so many of the in-between gears that you're almost always pedaling at a cadence that isn't ideal for you.
    Well, I put an 11-32 on last year, and while I did notice some of the in-between gears disappear, I feel I have plenty of cadence choices. The resulting low gears really, really helped me do the climbing training I needed to climb 10,000 feet in one day for my event.

    If I was riding across the country and doing serious mountain climbing, 4K, 5K, 6K feet for one pass, let alone a full day of climbing or multple passes, I would want those granny gears. That is where I am in my fitness and weight for all day climbing.

    That is why I think it is so important to know the OP's background of training, fitness, strength, etc.
    "The best rides are the ones where you bite off much more than you can chew, and live through it." ~ Doug Bradbury

 

 

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