question about carbon seatposts.... I think I want one :)

[DirtDiva]

The more expensive posts tend to be lighter. If you're after one for comfort's sake only, then you will probably be fine with a cheaper one. If your positioning on your bike is comfortable, then look for a seatpost with the same setback as the one you already have.

[luckeeesmom]

I took my current seatpost out and from the bike specs I know its 27.2 mm abd 350mm length but no details on the setback. I do know the there is setback but it appears to be a little less than the width in diameter of the seatpost so I assume that maybe it is approx 25mm or so. Is there any way to tell for sure? Thanks for your help! As for price, I'd like to get something on the lower range pricewise but the best quality I can get. I'm hoping I can catch a good deal!

[luckeeesmom]

Also are carbon seatposts likely to crack? what is their lifespan?

[Starfish]

Also are carbon seatposts likely to crack? what is their lifespan?

I would like to hear about this, too. I did read something on another thread where someone cracked their carbon post by over tightening it? I am thinking of getting one, too, but want to learn about how to keep it happy!

[OakLeaf]

I would like to hear about this, too. I did read something on another thread where someone cracked their carbon post by over tightening it? I am thinking of getting one, too, but want to learn about how to keep it happy!

Well, DH bought me a beautiful Snap-On torque wrench for Christmas. But I'll be able to use it when I get inside my m/c engine for a valve adjustment. I don't know if I'd spend that kind of money just for seatpost and stem adjustments (considering the number of seatposts you could buy for the price of the wrench)

Really, I would just trust that the shop got it right (probably too much to ask with some shops, but generally OK) - count the turns of the Allen wrench when you loosen it, then re-tighten by the same amount.

[Trekhawk]

I have carbon seatposts on both of my road bikes and I have not had any problems with them so far. My oldest would be coming up to 3 years of age.

Just remember that if you decide to buy anything that clips onto the seatpost read carefully if it can be mounted to carbon. I got myself a lovely hightail bag from Terry Bicycles for overnight trips on the bike but it can not be used with carbon. So I have an aluminium seatpost that I use for those rides.

[aicabsolut]

You probably have a standard setback seatpost already, so just stick with that. Use a torque wrench. Be sure the collar for the seatpost is the right size and that the post you buy is the right size for the frame (go with standard, standard, standard---no aero seatposts).

Don't attach anything heavy to the seatpost (like racks).

Otherwise, the only thing to worry about with carbon is that very heavy riders probably shouldn't use carbon.

[Duck on Wheels]

Also are carbon seatposts likely to crack? what is their lifespan?

Yep. Carbon seat posts do crack. I had one that lasted a year, riding moderate distances on mostly fairly smooth roads. I did hit one pothole a couple weeks before the seatpost snapped. That may have been a trigger. I've replaced the seatpost now. Not carbon, although the carbon post did make for a smoother ride.

[Trek420]

I was told not to get carbon on a steel frame. Is this true?

Something about it being more likely to crack. My steel road bike, all Campy Record has a Chorus seatpost because Record post is carbon. Oh the shame, the horror of non matching parts

But I like it fine.

[aicabsolut]

+1 for some carbon posts being a big pain in the ***, even for 2-bolt. Be sure you can get infinite tilt adjustment. As for 2-bolt systems, be sure that the 2nd bolt is easy access if you don't have a cut-out saddle design.

+1 for Thompson aluminum seatposts. Plenty of carbon devotees love Thompson posts. Probably the best seatposts out there really.

If you don't have a torque wrench (I don't yet..ooops), my LBS gave me a good rule of thumb. Wrench until it's fairly tight and then back it off a bit. There's no need to really crank the clamp on there, ever. It's got to be pretty loose for the post to do any slipping. I used the same rule of thumb when I had to move my FD as the shop had it set up all wrong and even if I had a torque wrench I don't know what the torque ought to be at that part of the seat tube.