Trying to adjust to a road bike

[KathiCville]

Yen, I've got much the same problem with feeling like my posture isn't what it should be. I've done three long rides (for me, meaning more than 25mi) in the past three weeks and each time have barely made it to the end because my forearms and wrists were screaming at me. Even when I'm trying to be conscious of not locking my elbows, etc....Yesterday's 33mi was the worst yet.......Had the bike fitted a month or so ago, which helped in general terms, especially with an ongoing lower back ache. But sounds another 'go' at fitting might be a good idea...Plus, I know my core strength is lousy--something I'm starting to work on.....All of the ideas being floated here are really useful, thanks!

[aicabsolut]

Sounds like you had a brake pad rubbing the wheel.

You should also get fitted to the bike and then ride it. You may have to readjust your fit as you get more miles on the road bike. This bike setup may have the bars too close to you. I know that when I needed to flip my stem down that I would get really sore in the shoulders because I was hunching them to make enough room for my arms, essentially. You should also have a saddle position as far forward as you can where you can just hold yourself up without falling on your face when you remove your hands from the bars (best to test this out on a trainer..haha). So find the part where you feel like you're going to tip and then move it back a smidge. A good place to start is by doing the knee over pedal spindle test, but based on your femur length and the geometry of the bike versus your build, this is only a general guideline. You shouldn't be using gobs of core strength while your hands are on the bars.

All of that said, I LOVE my 54 Roubaix comp. Get fitted. Ride. If it's for you, then ride some more. Then get refitted as your road bike fitness and comfort level improves.

[Yen]

Sounds like you had a brake pad rubbing the wheel.

You should also get fitted to the bike and then ride it. You may have to readjust your fit as you get more miles on the road bike. This bike setup may have the bars too close to you. I know that when I needed to flip my stem down that I would get really sore in the shoulders because I was hunching them to make enough room for my arms, essentially. You should also have a saddle position as far forward as you can where you can just hold yourself up without falling on your face when you remove your hands from the bars (best to test this out on a trainer..haha). So find the part where you feel like you're going to tip and then move it back a smidge. A good place to start is by doing the knee over pedal spindle test, but based on your femur length and the geometry of the bike versus your build, this is only a general guideline. You shouldn't be using gobs of core strength while your hands are on the bars.

All of that said, I LOVE my 54 Roubaix comp. Get fitted. Ride. If it's for you, then ride some more. Then get refitted as your road bike fitness and comfort level improves.

I'm glad you like it. What year is yours?

Thanks everyone, again, for your reassurance and advice. We returned the Roubaix rentals and now have a pair of Cannondale Synapses to try out (top-of-the line with all DA !!! ). I wasn't at the shop when my husband picked them up so mine does not have a different stem, but it is my size and the owner made other adjustments based on how he set up the Roubaix.

Basically, I want to feel sure that, although the reach feels far and uncomfortable now and assuming I'm on the *correct* size bike, reasonable adjustments will make it feel better and shorten my reach, while I learn to adjust to the position. I'm a little scared that I'll buy this new bike for a lot of money and even after 200-300 miles I'll still be uncomfortable and wondering what have I done?!

The fitter wants me to ride for 200-300 miles before I get the full fitting, since I'll be jumping from a hybrid to a road bike (so to speak -- I'm imagining a man jumping from horse to horse like in those old westerns right now...). Then, I believe he'll be available for questions and adjustments after that as well. This LBS offers free lifetime maintenance as well (and we are borrowing these bikes at no cost), so I think this is a great shop to stick with, which narrows my choices to the Synapse and the Roubaix.

[kat_h]

It sounds like you're dealing with a really great shop.

[aicabsolut]

Mine is an '06, Gerolsteiner team paint. I'd definitely go with expert or pro (or S-works ) if I could afford it, but the comp with 105/ultegra/fsa is doing pretty well. I changed saddle and bars. Just needs a race wheel upgrade.

Keep in mind that the Cannondale geometry will be pretty different from the Roubaix. Generally, I think people go down a size in Cannondale, but that's not written in stone or anything. It may mean you'd want a different stem or something though than with the other bike.

Something else to consider while you're testing this stuff out is handlebar width. if you've got 42-44cm men's bars on there, you may not feel as comfortable riding on the hoods as if you had 38cm or 40cm bars (mens or women's--though I think only women's bars come in 38). Bar width and the reach to the levers and all of that can affect how your shoulders and neck are feeling. It's usually more comfortable to be too wide rather than too narrow, and some people prefer a wide bar for climbing, but there's wide and then there's way too wide.

Sounds like you've got a fantastic shop!

[Becky]

Keep in mind that the Cannondale geometry will be pretty different from the Roubaix. Generally, I think people go down a size in Cannondale, but that's not written in stone or anything. It may mean you'd want a different stem or something though than with the other bike.

Absolutely! Fuji measures center to top to get the frame size, while Canny measures center to center (at least they did the last time I owned one). Bike sizes are just like clothing sizes- what fits in one brand won't necessarily fit in another brand. Stick with the actual frame measurements to compare, rather than sizes, and you'll be fine. It sounds like your shop is really taking this into account, and won't assume that you need the same size in both bikes.

[OakLeaf]

Sounds like your shop is taking care of you. But for the record, I actually went up a size from the 48 cm Ruby I demo'ed for three days, to the 50 cm Synapse Feminin I wound up buying. Specialized and Cannondale seem to size their WSD frames about the same, and it's just that the Ruby felt maybe a weedie bit small on me. For comparison, my old custom steel frame, without a sloping top tube, was a measured 47 cm c-to-c.

Is it the WSD Synapse you're trying, or the "men's" frame?