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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Limbo
    Posts
    8,769
    Quote Originally Posted by aicabsolut View Post

    I never wear shorts to a spin class.
    2008 Trek FX 7.2/Terry Cite X
    2009 Jamis Aurora/Brooks B-68
    2010 Trek FX 7.6 WSD/stock bontrager

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Vail, Colorado
    Posts
    27
    Being properly set up can make a huge difference in your comfort. So make sure your saddle height is not too low either. Then you're not distributing your weight properly over the saddle. Most people have saddles too low as opposed to too high (the latter is a little more obvious - it is really uncomfortable).

    Proper fore/aft adjustment is another thing. Few indoor cycling instructors know how to properly set up students (although we do cover it in Spinning Orientations - many forget or don't practice enough). Here's how you should set up your saddle:

    First, stand next to the saddle, and raise your leg so your thigh is parallel with the saddle (need to be close to it). Raise the height adjustment so that the saddle is about the same as your parallel thigh. this is a "ballpark".

    Next, mount the bike and put your heel on the pedal, so the back of the heel is lined up with the back edge of the pedal. Extend that leg towards the ground until the pedal crank is parallel with the seat tube (this is just forward of straight up and down). Does this make sense? Wish I had a photo to put here...

    When the heel is on the pedal, and the pedal is in this position, the hip bones should remain level, and you want a STRAIGHT leg - with no play at the knee. If there's a little play, then raise it one. If on the other hand you have to hyperextend the knee, or tip your hips to reach the pedal, then lower it one.

    Now, when you put the ball of your foot on the center spindle of the pedal (or clip in if you have the shoes), you should have a slight bend in the knee, about 25-35 degrees (but who has a large protractor?).

    Now for fore-aft: Place the crank arms at 3:00 and 9:00 (parallel with the ground). This measurement depends on the fact that you must sit your butt down in the saddle in the right spot - everytime - with pelvis bones on the meatiest part of the saddle. Because if you move a tiny bit, the measurement will change. You need a plumbline (a weight on a string). Have someone measure it for you. Holding the string at the base of your patella (knee cap), the plumbline should fall straight down and the weighted string should intersect the pedal spindle (right around the instep). If not, move the saddle fore or aft and remeasure.

    Handlebars indoors are more for comfort, but for people who ride outside, I recommend a position that mimics their handlebar height on their bikes. Indoors you don't have to worry about aerodynamics. But also know that a real high handlebar height won't allow you to use your glutes very efficiently and you won't be very powerful, but for some people who have back or other problems and need the higher handlebars, that doesn't matter.


    Hope this helps!
    Jennifer Sage, CSCS
    Master Instructor, Team Spinning International
    Owner Viva Travels
    Custom guided and self-guided European bike tours
    www.vivatravels.com
    http://cyclingeurope.wordpress.com
    http://reachyourpeak.wordpress.com



    What you do, what you say, what you are may help others in ways you never know. Your influence, like your shadow, extends to where you may never be.
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