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Another option to get the bars lower is to use a stem that angles downwards. Or, if the stem is higher you may just need to go with a longer flat to duplicate the reach on your old bike if you like that look more.
Congrats. She looks like quite the beauty!
I'd rather be swimming...biking...running...and eating cheesecake...
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2008 Cervelo P2C Tri bike
2011 Trek Madone 5.5/Cobb V-Flow Max
2007 Jamis Coda/Terry Liberator
2011 Trek Mamba 29er
That's what I meant, although whether it will help depends on how much rise it has. But, that is my suggestion, pick a stem w appropriate 'rise' but turn that rise into a decline by flipping it upside down. But then she may not like how it looks, which is why the option of using a stem that is longer but without rise may do the trick. The idea is to keep the distance from the tip of the saddle to the start of the brake levers the same on both bikes (assuming same saddle and STA), and then the reach will match.
Sella Italia offers a decent selection of solid red & solid white saddles. The white one with white bar tape would be freakin' SWEET on that bike! I'm drooling a little just thinking about it...
Whatever you do, be sure to put some update pics up!
Oh yeah, and I don't care much for matching clothes, either! T-shirt, jeans, & retired running shoes are my uniform!
Yowza. What a GORGEOUS bike. And a terrific description of the ride, very evocative.
Reminded me of Paul Simons: "He makes it look so easy, look so clean, he moves like God's immaculate machine" (One-trick pony)
Winter riding is much less about badassery and much more about bundle-uppery. - malkin
1995 Kona Cinder Cone commuterFrankenbike/Selle Italia SLR Lady Gel Flow
2008 white Nakamura Summit Custom mtb/Terry Falcon X
2000 Schwinn Fastback Comp road bike/Specialized Jett
I'm actually not sure if this stem can be flipped. I've looked everywhere online about it, but it doesn't say. And Bontrager's website doesn't help either. Whenever I take the bike into my LBS to get the steerer tube shaved down a bit, I'll also ask about this stem.
I'm having a professional fit done some time in Feb with my current bike. Then I'll go again and have that fit replicated on the Madone. Because right now, the Madone is WAY off and not fitted at all. I don't want to waste my time having an interim fit done on the Madone and then the professional one done.
But actually what I meant by not being able to lower my bars is that the combination of risers + the stem's height are greater than 10mm. I have a few tiny spacers and then 2 or 3 10mm ones. So the only combination this works is if the stem goes on last because it's height is greater than the 10mm difference between the top of the steerer tube and the top of the spacers+stem group. I hope that makes sense.
Even in trimming the steerer tube at the bike shop and putting the stem beneath any spacers, I still may need a +/- 17 stem to get my bars low enough to match the offset on my current bike. The head tube on my Cannondale measures 11.5 whereas the Madone WSD's is 14.5. That's why it seems like I'm trying to get my bars as low as possible but it's also because the head tube is quite a bit taller.
THANKS EVERYBODY FOR LOOKING AND COMMENTING!!! It's very much appreciated.![]()
Beautiful bike. And a aero shaped seat post/mast. Bit envious.
Many happy miles (collect them preems, collect them ALL)
smilingcat
You can flip the Bontrager stem either way (it's a beauty). But I would hold off on cutting your steerer until you have your fitting, until then you can simply stack spacers on top of the stem. I think you need to at least use one spacer (2.5 mm), but that with a 17 degree stem (may need a different stem) flipped down sill give you the most seat to bar drop. The top of the headtube on the new Madones is 30 mm higher then previous models, unless you go with the "Pro", but I'm not sure if you can get a Pro in a WSD. A smaller frame can also give you some more drop, but you made need the taller seat post cap and a longer stem.
P.S. Why not get the fit on the Madone rather then your current bike?
Last edited by Mr. SR500; 01-18-2008 at 10:13 AM.
Thank you for all of that advice. I was definitely going to wait in cutting the steerer tube.
I'm going to wait to fit the Madone because I just figured it would be easier to dial in on my current fit that I've had for the past year on my other bike. But now that I think about it more, I guess it really doesn't make too much of a difference? I just went back and re-read the email I got back from our team's coach (who's going to be doing the fitting) and he suggested waiting to fit the new bike so we know bar, stem, etc. to build on the new one. But the more I think about it, it wouldn't really matter because the geometries are so different, it wouldn't be possible to use the exact same stem or whatever between both bikes. Right?
Hmmmmm.......![]()
If it were me, I would try and get the Madone close (at least you should be able to pull the seat height and fore/aft off your old bike). That way you can ride it and be ready when the fitter dials you in. I'm assuming the Madone will be your main bike, so makes sense to fit you on that.
Also depends on how the fitter fits you, fit kit, Compu-trainer, experience, etc... To get the best fit you really should be on the bike you'll be riding. Stems, reach, bars, are the last adjustment usually made (assuming the bike is the correct size), so you can dial in whatever you like. While a lower position will likely me more aero, a slight rise may make you more comfortable and efficient - thus faster. Depends on type of riding and style.
Enjoy the bike, Kim has so much studying to do, she wouldn't have time to ride even if her bike did show up early.
Oh My!!! that bike is a beauty! Sexy and sleek!!!!!! enjoy!!!!!
MrSR..which one is SR500 getting?
"Being retired from Biking...isn't that kinda like being retired from recess?" Stephen Colbert asked of Lance Armstrong
I hesitated saying this, but I thought I'd throw it out while the bike is still new and could be exchanged. Could it be that the bike you ordered is a size too large for you? You spent a lot of money for that bike, and it is still brand new so it seems to me the shop that sold it to you should be willing to work with you on it. The way our shops here work, is that the fit is performed first, and then matches are made to bikes that are likely to fit the best. As MRSR mentioned, as long as you can get your saddle high enough on the smaller frame, and could tolerate a stem 7 mm longer (diff in tt length corrected for sta) perhaps the 50 cm would be better. All I worry though is whether the 50 may have toe clip overlap based on the published tt length, and the handling may be slightly different as there is a slight diff in trail (5.9 vs 6.1) although if it were me I would find 6.1 too stable and prefer 5.9. A lot to consider. I second being fit to the madonne first. I find my fit is not the same on bikes with diff geometries, since balance over the bike is key, and how to best achieve that can vary with diff. frame geometries.
That's great advice Trisk. Thank you very much for that insight. I'm going to ask....
First I'm not disagreeing with Trisk, but wanted to note that I DO have toelap on my Giant. It's almost never an issue. You just really don't turn the wheel that much.