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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Columbia River Gorge
    Posts
    3,565
    I love this thread. I'm learnign a lot. I know nothing about all this stuff.

    Lots of triathletes run tubulars. I've always been afraid of not being able to change a flat if I had one.
    Living life like there's no tomorrow.

    http://gorgebikefitter.com/


    2007 Look Dura Ace
    2010 Custom Tonic cross with discs, SRAM
    2012 Moots YBB 2 x 10 Shimano XTR
    2014 Soma B-Side SS

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Israel (Middle East)
    Posts
    1,199
    Wow, Claudia. What a lovely old bike!
    And DebW again showing us what a Mechanic she is
    Another trip down Memory Lane to my Glory Days just reading about it all

    All you need is love...la-dee-da-dee-da...all you need is love!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by smilingcat View Post
    Hi DebW,

    I guess I'm getting up there in years. I never like the mess with tubulars or fixing it on the road. I've been told handling was much better on the tubulars. I used to see guys with tubulars in their back pocket.

    Center pulls, sidepull brakes. Going to clipless. Mostly Look I think.

    5 speed then 6 speed, ultra 7 and 8. Problems with the spread of the rear triangle to accomodate all those extra gears. Worries about rear wheel. Not enough dishing because of the wider clusters... Regina, Maillard hmm forgot about those names until you mentioned.

    I remember back in '85? or was it before then ... to have local LBS to remove the elliptical chainrings on my new purchase. They were in vogue then. Couldn't spin properly though.

    Anyway, I think uforgot is going to have some fun time cleaning up the bike. It really isn't that hard.

    Oh, the ball bearings in the hubs are not sitting in a squirrel cage (is that the right terminology?) so they can drop out. Taking apart the hubs should be done on a concrete floor so you don't lose the bearings. Same with the BB.

    smilingcat
    Yeah, hub bearings are probably loose, not in a retainer. But it's cheap and good insurance to replace them when you repack the hub. (18) 1/4" in the rear hub, (20) 3/8" in the front hub, (50) 5/32" in the headset, (22) 1/4" in the bb (those are the norm but exceptions exist - # in () is # of bearings needed).

    I always preferred sewups for flats on the road. Don't need tools to change them, can't pinch the tube, if the tire was slashed you're replacing it anyway. Often quicker to change than clinchers (but sometimes it's tough removing a well-glued tire). Only big issue is that you have to go home and break out the glue. I did a charity ride last year where I flatted the first day, and I got quite an audience while I glued that evening.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    WA State
    Posts
    4,364
    Quote Originally Posted by Wahine View Post
    I love this thread. I'm learnign a lot. I know nothing about all this stuff.

    Lots of triathletes run tubulars. I've always been afraid of not being able to change a flat if I had one.
    I run tubies on my TT bike - since I'm not doing an IM distance (ours are generally short, 40K is the longest and they are more likely to run 10-12K) if you get a flat during a race you're screwed anyway so I've never worried about it. The wheels are wonderfully light - I bought my front wheel off of ebay, when I picked the box up off of my porch I was afraid the person had forgotten to put the wheel in it - felt like an empty box!
    "Sharing the road means getting along, not getting ahead" - 1994 Washington State Driver's Guide

    visit my flickr stream http://flic.kr/ps/MMu5N

 

 

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