$10 Flea market find

[uforgot]

The guys over at bikeforums.net>Classic & Vintage would love to hear about that bike, especially since it has Campy parts. You might be able to flip it for much more than you paid, as is.

If you're going to keep it, I'll bet those rims will intrigue someone over there, too. You'll probably need 27" wheels to replace them.

Karen

I think that I've actually belonged to bikeforums longer than TE, but since I've joined TE, I rarely go over there. I will make a post. Thanks, I completely forgot about it.

I actually put my 700c wheels on it from my road bike, and they fit, but it turns out to have a 32" standover height which is just a little too big for me! So your suggestion is doubly appreciated!

[uforgot]

Wow Deb! Who knew? Once I think I about have this stuff under control, I learn something new! Not sure what I'm going to do with this bike, but I found some tubular tires online and I may just give this a shot. It's too big for me, but I'm fascinated with this stuff. I did try to put some extra 700c clinchers on there, but those Michelins were always sooooo tight. I'm going to try the stand on them thing, too. I've heard that you can put them in the dryer. For tonight I finally gave up. 1 broken tire lever and skinned knuckles. I'll try again tomorrow, or maybe just wait for the tubulars. Thanks so much for all of your help. I have learned so much from you on TE.

[KnottedYet]

Wow, what an amazing find!

[smilingcat]

taking a closer look at the tubular rim and can't see knife marks on the inside. Definitly use a steel wool and some solvent to remove the old glue first. Want it really clean...then follow Deb's instruction.

Oh you may want to tear down the races. hubs front and rear and the bottom bracket and repack with grease. BB will need a special spline tool just for that BB. Hubs can be torn down with open ended box wrench. The rear cluster will have to be removed to get to the races and that too will require a spline tool. It'll be a good (several) weekened project for your DH

You probably should also check the wear in the head set.

Sounds like a lot of work but it really isn't. Really nice find for $10.00

smilingcat

[DebW]

Oh you may want to tear down the races. hubs front and rear and the bottom bracket and repack with grease. BB will need a special spline tool just for that BB. Hubs can be torn down with open ended box wrench. The rear cluster will have to be removed to get to the races and that too will require a spline tool. It'll be a good (several) weekened project for your DH

You probably should also check the wear in the head set.

Smilingcat, are you an old fart sewup user too? Yes, definitely repack the hub, bb, and headset. You'll need a set of cone wrenches (13 mm and 15 mm) to do the hubs. Freewheel tools are specific to the freewheel brand (Regina, SunTour, Atom, Malliard) and some brands used more than one style over time. Raleigh bb's didn't use spline tools, either a narrow flat that fit a large wrench or holes that fit a pin spanner, and a lockring tool. The headset may require a 32 mm thin headset wrench along with a large crescent wrench. And I don't consider this a project for uforgot's DH.

[uforgot]

And I don't consider this a project for uforgot's DH.

No DH in the picture. When he WAS in the picture I wasn't allowed to pursue activities like this.

a) The $10 didn't go towards something that could be put on the table.
b) Biking is not golf.
c) The guy couldn't even change the oil in the lawnmower. We HIRED someone, even though I knew how to do it. (I'm not a man, how could I know how? Well, here's how...my father thought women should be able to make their own repairs on vehicles and homes. HE taught me)
d) As the years went by, I grew more bold, even to the point of putting up paneling, replacing a door, etc. Of course, it was always wrong. The power tools that he liked to own only had MY fingerprints on them.
e) Oh, don't feel sorry for me, I had my revenge. I'm a lousy cook.
He married a Martha Stewart wannabe after I woke up and decided he should leave.

So you see, this is a project for ME. You guys have always been an inspiration. I always suspected, but now know for sure that you don't need a set of testicles to work on bikes, homes, cars...

Okay, now back to the wonderful input and suggestions.

[DebW]

I took a look at your additional pictures on bikeforums. The crankset is steel and cottered. If you wanted to turn this into a bike for distance riding, I'd replace the crankset with a cotterless alloy model, which would save weight and add stiffness. The front derailleur is the old pushrod variety. There's a reason those were replaced with parallelograms. Pushrod derailleurs hold the cage at the same height no matter which chainring you are on, so you'll get a lousy shift on anything but a narrow-range double (which that bike has). And to adjust that model, there is a screw for the outside stop, but the inside is adjusted by moving the cage on the pushrod, which requires you to readjust the outer stop screw. This is the same design as the old plastic Simplex front derailleur, which was in widespread use through the early 70s (Simplex must have copied the Campy Gran Sport). If you want to keep this vintage, I'm sure you could just repack all the bearings, clean it up, and have a great bike (or sell it for a good profit).