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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    9,324
    You can look up the gear ratios on Sheldon Brown's site to see how big of a jump it would be. Once you figure out what the easiest ratio on the new bike will be, make Mr. ride up that 25% using that gear ratio equivalent on his current bike. That way you can see if a compact double with that gearing will work for you, where you ride.

    I did this when I bought my new bike and got a compact double on it. My compact double lowest gear is about 10% taller than the lowest gear I have on my triple. Once I ordered the new bike, I just stopped using that lowest gear. I missed it for awhile, still do sometimes.

    V.
    Discipline is remembering what you want.


    TandemHearts.com

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    1,011
    Oh, that's good V. Good way to go about it. So using that, he would only have the equivalent of 3rd gear.
    "Being retired from Biking...isn't that kinda like being retired from recess?" Stephen Colbert asked of Lance Armstrong

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    2,024
    I have a compact double (50/34) with an 11/34 in back. If that is what Mr. Silver wants, he should negotiate with the bike shop. Usually they will make swaps to get you the gearing you want. If he wants a mountain cog set in back though, he will want a 9 and not 10 speed druve chain (can get a 12/27 in 10 though). He will have to be sure they choose the apprpriate rear derailleur though. For the 12/27 he will need a medium cage and for the 11/34 he will need a long. Mine has a long so I can use an 11/34 but it also works fine with my 12/27. The bike may only come stock with a short if it comes with a tight rear casette. But, getting back to whether Mr. S. needs a new bike. Given that his current bike is aluminum, is the new bike really that much lighter? Aluminum is light, just harsh to some people. Rather than going from an entry level to mid level bike, why not go to a high end when the time is right (full carbon w ultegra/durace). The higher you go in component group, you gain both lightness and performance (smoother shifting, etc.). I think 170 lb is fine for full carbon. Titanium is something else to consider, light and strong, and lasts forever and doesn't rust. A custom is something to consider if stock geometries don't work well.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    2,024
    Another idea is to get a bike that can do something your current bike can't, like travel. I have an s/s coupled bike that fits in an airline legal suitcase. Had a bike friday before that. I remember not being able to take bikes was an issue on your last vacation.

 

 

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