Sounds like you might want to get a bike with a more upright position to take care of your wrists and shoulders? Or maybe try a recumbent?
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Went to the bike shop and every bike I got on, I just naturally migrated to as up-right/straight as I could be... Do I need to add "lean!" to my mantra?
I've been so afraid to put more weight on my hands for fear of making my carpal tunnel worse, but getting tennis elbow isn't helping me either!
My new biking mantra:
I am attached to my bike. If I start to slow down, I need to unclip. If I do not unclip, I will fall. If I unclip, I will hurt myself less if I do fall.
Sounds like you might want to get a bike with a more upright position to take care of your wrists and shoulders? Or maybe try a recumbent?
I may be wrong about this because I'm very new to rode bikes, but I'm a computer tech who was trained to give initial ergonomic evaluations....
I would worry about Carpel Tunnel with straight bars but I'm not sure about with drop bars. With the straight bars you would want to be upright as possible because your wrists are not in a very ergonomic position. Your hands are holding your arms up and it would be easy to bend your wrist, impeding the nerve.
With drop bars, you rest your hands on the hoods or in the drop. Your hand is like you are shaking someone’s hand. When I'm in the drops, my hands are resting on outside of my hand (pinkie side). When they are on the hoods, it’s the same only my thumb seems to be more involved and will get tired. I will briefly put my hands on the flat upper part.
One thing I did find out with the drops....I have to have my handle bars level with my seat or I will put too much weight on my hands.
This is just my experience and observations. Hopefully others with more knowledge will weight.
- Mary
Have you tried a Trek Pilot WSD?
It has a fairly upright position for a road bike.
2008 Trek FX 7.2/Terry Cite X
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mustache bars or albatross bars.
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"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
Well, i went for a ride this morning and make sure to stay bent over with elbows bent... Rode the first half of the 10 mile ride with my hands on the middle grips and boy oh boy, did that hurt when I stopped!!
Rode back with my hands on the bar ends, staying bent, and my hands felt fine after I got back to the parking lot! So, I'm pretty sure that I am going to swap bikes again and get a small road bike (Fuji Newest, most likely) so that I'll have more positions to ride in than just the one position that I have now.
Thanks for all the advice thus far in this thread and my other - I'll post an update after I put a few miles on the new bike!
My new biking mantra:
I am attached to my bike. If I start to slow down, I need to unclip. If I do not unclip, I will fall. If I unclip, I will hurt myself less if I do fall.
If you like everything about your current bike except for the bars, can you just switch out the bars?
(not that I'd *ever* try to talk someone out of buying another bike!!)
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"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
Weeeeelll.... The Newest has carbon forks and i'd rather have those than a suspension in the seatpost
It also has cute little teeny brakes on the top of the bar in addition to the large normal ones. I'm a sucker for those!
My new biking mantra:
I am attached to my bike. If I start to slow down, I need to unclip. If I do not unclip, I will fall. If I unclip, I will hurt myself less if I do fall.
karen,
My biking mantra:
When in doubt clip out![]()
I agree, I think suspension seatposts are just...just...wrong on so many levels. I think they stem out of many peoples experience that cycling = pain.
Bike that fits + right seat and bars for you = comfort. Some people like the sqooshy posts but unless you ride off road, rough roads or stoker on a tandem suspension posts for most people just robs motion, saps energy and may be less safe.
I feel less "connected" to the bike when I ride one.
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Folder ~ Brompton
N+1 ~ My seat on the Rover recumbent tandem
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hmmmmm - they are putting cross levers on road bikes now? Be very careful if you get too used to using those. Braking sharply from that position whilst going quickly down a hill could put you over the handlebars...... They are much, much improved from the "suicide levers" of old, but still use caution.
"Sharing the road means getting along, not getting ahead" - 1994 Washington State Driver's Guide
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So, I picked up the Fuji Newest last night after a test drive around the parking lot.
I like it! But I have one question... Why do road bikes have such squishy brakes? It was like brakeing a Chrysler or Jeep (Newest) compared to a Toyota (Schwinn Super Sport) - much less responsive in the former.
The guy at the shop said that was pretty normal of road bikes... Why?
My new biking mantra:
I am attached to my bike. If I start to slow down, I need to unclip. If I do not unclip, I will fall. If I unclip, I will hurt myself less if I do fall.
My brakes don't feel squishy.
but now that I think about it, my hybrid had v-pulls and my 2 road bikes have cantis... so I actually don't have a real road brake to compare.
Did the other road bikes you tried feel like they had squishy brakes? If it's only *yours* that feels squishy, I'd be concerned that something is awry.
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
Squishy brakes are low quality brakes. Compare the bike you test rode to a bike with Shimao Ultegra or Campy Chorus brakes and see if those feel the same or different to you. Ask the dealer to let you test ride something with higher end components so you can compare. The LBS should be able to upgrade the brakes or other parts if these really make a difference to you. Squishy brakes can be dangerous if the calipers bend so much that the lever contacts the bar even when the brakes are properly adjusted.
Last edited by DebW; 10-21-2007 at 07:46 AM.
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1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
The "squishiness" you refer to could just be a matter of adjustment. One of the first maintenance jobs I learned how to do on my bike was how to adjust brake travel (on both the caliper brakes on my raod bike and the cantis on my cx bike). Both have decent brakes (Ultegra on the road bike, 105 on the cx). But I learned through trial and error that there's a huge range of responsiveness that can be produced depending solely on how you set up the travel -- from "bike doesn't stop all the way even when you squeeze levers all the way back to the bar" to "pull levers back half and inch and come to a dead, flying over the handlebars stop." (I never actually rode my bike in either of these condition, thankfully).
You want some "squishiness" or you lose the ability to modulate your slowing -- it becomes either "no brakes" or "stop." Between the extremes, though, to some extent it's a matter of personal preference exactly how much you like.