Wanting a new saddle for my new bike

[KnottedYet]

Sandra - if your gut instinct is hollering "B68!!!!" then I'd go for the B68!

You have 6 months to make up your mind.

I have two B67 saddles. Similar, but with springs which the B68 doesn't have. I adore these saddles. They have completely changed my world. I ordered my 2nd B67 *after* the B68 came out. When it came down to the wire, my gut told me to get another B67 rather than the B68. Trust your gut! (and you really do have 6 months! Bill is awesome for help with saddle issues, too, as long as Wallingford isn't too busy at the moment. I've had him call me back when he had less on his plate.)

I've stayed away from the "S" Brooks saddles (for "short") because I prefer a long nose to help me control the bike.

[sandra]

Can you explain to me the difference you feel in sprung and unsprung or why you prefer one over the other?

[farrellcollie]

I use the sprung saddles (B67 I think) on my commuter hybrid and my folding bike - it helps smooth the bumps out on the road and makes the ride more comfortable. I use the regular B17 on my road bike - because I have it and it fits me well. A lot of people do not use sprung saddles on road bikes - I think the reason is for weight issues and aesthetics. I did not put one on my road bike because I started with the middle of the road vanilla approach - B17 being the most popular saddle and also because I just did not think about sprung for some reason. No real reason for me to worry about saddle weight (or aesthetics) until I lose 40 lbs.

[KnottedYet]

I've never ridden on an unsprung Brooks. I ordered a second sprung one just because I did like my first so much. And I sort of figured "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

[Torrilin]

I'm currently riding on an unsprung beater saddle. The pavement on my main errands loop is pretty beat to hell... I grew up in Pennsylvania and thought I knew what big potholes looked like. Madison potholes look like what I'd call a sinkhole *g*. For an unloaded ride (just my 165 lb self), the saddle is fine. I can use my legs as shock absorbers for bumps, and things are peachy. Current max distance is 10 miles, and is going up. Slowly.

For a loaded ride (my 165 lb self + 30-45 lbs of stuff in a backpack), I end up in pretty serious pain after just 2 miles on bad pavement. The saddle bounces if I pedal hard. It's harder to absorb shocks with my legs. End result is I hurt and sometimes get saddle sores. I could probably go longer on good pavement.

With the load in panniers on my rack, things are not as peachy as when I'm unloaded, but they're still pretty good. I haven't hit my limit with panniers yet. I'd expect it's less than my unloaded limit, but not a lot less.

Springs probably aren't something I need for utility riding with panniers, since that's mostly short trips. I may need 'em if I start doing centuries or touring. I have to hammer pretty hard to get the bouncy saddle effect when I'm not loaded down. But just one rider on one bike has different saddle needs at different times, so the trick is to figure out what *you* need. And well, there is some trial and error involved

[BleeckerSt_Girl]

Saddles with springs are particularly good for bikes that have you in a more upright position. (that's one reason you see them on a lot of older bikes)
Sitting upright puts most of your weight straight down your spine onto your sitbones. Every bump in your ride will have your weight coming right down on your seat, not on your legs or hands. Springs help absorb the shocks on both your spine and your butt.

On a less upright position road bike, your weight gets more distributed between your seat, legs, and hands, and your spine is more horizontal and can flex with the bumps. More of your weight is on your legs as you ride (if you are well balanced that is). There is less weight jamming down your spine onto your seat with every ride bump. Thus, springs are not as needed.

FWIW, my road bike is sort of halfway between a racing position and an upright position. Speaking for myself, I don't feel any need for springs at all even on long rides. When I do hit bumps unexpectedly, I can actually feel my non-sprung B68 under-saddle frame rails flex down and back up with the impact.

[RoseC]

Lisa (and Mimi and Knotted et al),

Hijacking the thread a bit as I seem to be good at...though it *is* still related to the saddle Sandra is interested in! Maybe good information for others, too.

I think my setup is very similar to yours - my bars are almost level with my saddle.

How do you feel the B-67/68 does on rides over, say, 35 miles? Does the extra width start to chafe on longer rides, or is there such a quick transition from nose to seat that the width really doesn't get in the way of pedaling?

I'm still worrying a little about it, but since there isn't a B-17S with a long nose (or long rails, as you helpfully pointed out!), and since it isn't *that* much wider than regular B-17s, it does seem like the B-68 is the way to go for most gals who don't fit a standard B-17....

I'm just fretting 'cause I've got nothing better to do while I wait for the thing to arrive!

[KnottedYet]

I have a fairly lopsided pelvis, and find the springs really accomodate my wonky pedalling. And I do have a very upright position to keep pressure off my shoulders and neck. I had wanted a B68, and covetted a B68 cuz they are so darn sexy, but when it came down to the wire I stuck with B67 for my second Brooks.

Nice thing about Wallbike is that you can try things and change saddles if the first you try isn't perfect!

My B67 is extraordinarily comfy on 50 or 60 mile rides. Much more comfy than anything else I've ever ridden. I don't chafe on the width for two reasons: The B6X series is a "T" shape (I chafe horribly on pears) and the B6X are wide enough to support my very wide sits. And the slip of the leather lets your legs slide along the edges of the saddle without the kind of friction that would make you rub against your shorts.

I fretted, too, but really that 6 month leeway lets off on the stress!