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but I'm afraid to especially with my charity event two days away.
My right brake lever has to be pulled way far back for braking to take effect.
This is probably just a matter of turning the barrel adjuster on the cable a bit but after I read about the mess Coyote made, I don't know if I should try this at home.
2008 Trek FX 7.2/Terry Cite X
2009 Jamis Aurora/Brooks B-68
2010 Trek FX 7.6 WSD/stock bontrager
I had a similar sounding thing on my new bike; I thought I'd stretched the brake cable. So I took it into the lbs, waited around (since they're busy), only to have the guy show me that the quick release for the brake had gotten turned down. I bet you'd know to check that, though?
Hey which way do you turn it? Do you use pliars? If I identified the right thingamabob, it won't turn. hmm
2008 Trek FX 7.2/Terry Cite X
2009 Jamis Aurora/Brooks B-68
2010 Trek FX 7.6 WSD/stock bontrager
Oops, right, Zen. Whichever way, it got flipped to the loose position, and I didn't really know/think to look at that. I'm still in the early learning stages!
Adjusting the brakes is one of the easiest jobs for me... just turn the barrel adjuster by hand 1/4 of a turn in a counter clockwise direction until it is tight enough for you. You will be lengthening the amount of the black plastic piece that sticks above the brake. If you can't get it tight enough, you can easily release the cable and start from scratch.
Here's a gerat article on how to do it: http://www.bikewebsite.com/bicycle-bra.htm
To make the barrel adjuster really easy to turn, hold the brake calipers against the rim. Then there is slack in the cable and the barrel turns very easily.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
To adust brake travel, I think the following will prove easier/more precise than fiddling with the barrel adjusters:
1. Locate the cable insertion point for the affected brake. You'll see an allen bolt on the brake caliper over the insertion point. Loosen it.
2. With one hand, grab the cable end (you *might* need pliers for this, but I usually don't), and with the other hand squeeze the calipers (leave the brake lever itself alone, just squeeze the brake over the rim) until the brake pads are about an eighth of an inch from the rim. While holding the pads in this position, pull the cable taught. Keeping pressure on the cable, tighten the allen bolt.
3. Check travel by using your brake lever. This takes a teeny bit of trial and error to get just the right distance, but you have a lot more control and ability to fine-tune than with the barrel adjusters. It's also pretty easy, but even easier if you can recruit an assistant (one person holds the brake calipers/cable and the other person loosens/tightens the allen bolt).
Good luck!
oh one more thing -- make sure your brake quick release is down when you do this.
Last edited by VeloVT; 06-21-2007 at 10:29 AM.
The "assistant" is called a third hand. Or an old toe straps usually works. These devices are known to save friendships.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
The butterflies are within you.
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My friend/assistant doesn't have opposable thumbsMaybe I should get one of those helper monkeys.
I did see this exact method in my research travels but can't find it now, it also showed the "third hand".
It also said this is one of the easiest things for a new mechanic to screw up. I may just have the on site mechanic look at it on Saturday.
Thanks, guys!
2008 Trek FX 7.2/Terry Cite X
2009 Jamis Aurora/Brooks B-68
2010 Trek FX 7.6 WSD/stock bontrager