terry precision

[surgtech1956]

Let me see if I have this right. From the bottom of my foot(floor) to the crotch area is just almost 30 inches. I put a book - maybe too big of a book and it measured 26 inches. Does this sound right???

[surgtech1956]

KnottedYet - are you saying the front of the saddle should be tilted up?? I think thats how I got the back sore spot.

[KnottedYet]

KnottedYet - are you saying the front of the saddle should be tilted up?? I think thats how I got the back sore spot.

Nope, not at all. I'm referring to sliding the saddle BACK toward the rear tire. Moving it back in the seat post clamp. Sliding it back on the rails. Slipping it hindward. Movin' on back. Aft-ward direction. Fore-aft placement.

Don't mess with tilt. Tilt is a whole 'nother universe. I'm talkin' saddle position. Keep that puppy level. Don't play with tilt until you get fore-aft settled.

Go find a copy of Andy Pruitt's Complete Medical Guide for Cyclists. It is a very valuable resource!

Did you take your A+P at LCC or JCC? (LCC RULZ!!!) Remember the tibial tuberosity? Arrange the fore-aft placement of the saddle such that when you are comfortably settled on the saddle and one of your pedals is in the forward horizontal postion your tib tub on the forward leg is just behind the pedal spindle. If your tib tub is goofy (like if you have Osgood's), use the ant pat as your reference. Andy Pruitt uses the ant pat, which puts the actual joint line behind the spindle anyway.

[KnottedYet]

Measure from the edge of the book that is pressing into your pubic bone. So, essentially TOP (spine) of the book to floor in stocking feet. You don't want the bike tube to be hitting your pubic bone when you stand over it (even in stocking feet) so you want a bike with a SMALLER standover than your bicycling inseam.

If you don't have a firm book handy, use a board. Cutting board works fine. measure from the edge of the cutting board that is pressing into your pubes to the floor as you stand with your back and heels and end of the board against the wall.

[surgtech1956]

KnottedYet. I think the size will work. I used a hard cover novel and the measurement was just about 26 1/2 inches. My hybrid is a 15" - I had a mountain bike and it was a 17 1/5 and I never liked it riding it, it never felt right. thanks

[surgtech1956]

KnottedYet, thanks, now I understand about the saddle and I'll look for that book.

[KnottedYet]

Let me see if I have this right. From the bottom of my foot(floor) to the crotch area is just almost 30 inches. I put a book - maybe too big of a book and it measured 26 inches. Does this sound right???

Now I'm lost. Both with this "big" book at 26 inches, and then you said a hardcover novel got you 26 1/2 inches.

How did your inseam decrease 3 1/2 to 4 inches?

Using a book or board to squish the soft tissue out of the way so you get a boney landmark measurement should've made your inseam measurement increase.

Here we can fall back on A+P again. What we're looking for is pubic symphysis to distal surface of calcaneous. The book and wall are just a way of isolating pubic symphysis to bottom of calcaneous. Do what you need to get that measurement in weightbearing, and then you can use that to assess the standover height with regards to a bicycle's top tube.

Edit: are you holding the book horizontally or vertically? Got a broom? Use the broomstick intead. Mash that critter into your pubes holding it horizontally like it was the top tube of a bike. Measure from the top/upper/high/pressing against your girlie-bits/closest-to-the-sky edge of the broomstick to the floor. That gives you the standover height of a bike that would crush your girlie-bits but not bust your pelvis open like a walnut. (aka bicycling inseam, aka absolute no questions asked do not pass go do not recieve $200 upper limit) If you don't want a bike to mash your bits every time you stand over it, get a bike with a SMALLER/lower/closer-to-the-ground standover height.

[emily_in_nc]

That's a really pretty Terry, but I agree that you need to be really sure about the size first. I'm 5'2.5" with a 28.5" cycling inseam, and my 17.5" Terry Isis was a perfect fit for me. At 5'5", you sound too tall for this bike. If your inseam is really as short as mine and yet you're 2.5" taller than me, you probably have a long torso and will find the cockpit of the bike too cramped. You'd need a longer stem for sure. The price is phenomenal, though, so if it stays that low, you might want to buy it anyway -- you might be able to sell it for more than you paid if you are willing to ship it. An LBS will normally box and ship it for you for about $50 (not including the actual cost of shipping), so you might make money on the deal... Good luck, and keep us posted!

Emily

[surgtech1956]

KnottedYet, I am so embarrassed. I really am a newbie. I was putting the book so that it gave me clearance. Now I know what you were talking about measuring. So I would say its 29 1/2".

[Triskeliongirl]

If your cycling inseam is 29.5 then you definitely need the 17.5" frame for standover clearance. I agree with Emily, the cockpit may be too short, but that will depend on the lengths of your femurs and arms, and how aggresive a position you want to assume on the bike, none of which we know. BUT, putting a longer stem on is easy and relatively inexpensive (~$29, nitto technomic comes in a lot of sizes to dial in fit http://www.lickbike.com/productpage.asp?PART_NUM_SUB='1173-10'), and will only improve handling as I think the stems on those bikes as supplied are too short (I always put longer ones on) so again given the apparent good condition and good price, I think its a good bet. Again, what about my suggestion of driving out to test ride prior to bidding?

[KnottedYet]

29.5 bicycling inseam meets 27.5 standover top-tube.

I'd say 2 inches of clearance sounds pretty fine. Especially at that price. For a STEEL TERRY! (I have less than that on my Surly and Waterford, but I have a very long torso and long arms and the geometry works for me) If you need a bit longer reach once you get the bike, it's not a difficult thing to get a longer reach stem.

And at our age (eh-hem) being a little more upright (slightly shorter reach frame will do that) isn't a bad thing.

I'd still get that Terry. (except that it's too small for me and 2,000 miles away... )

[surgtech1956]

My hybrid frame is 15" and seems fine - I think sometimes I'm in between sizes, my mtn bike was a 17.5 and seemed too big. I'm going to try the adjustment on my saddle(thanks KnottedYet). I can't go before the auction ends and look at the bike. I guess if I win it and it doesn't work out - I can just resell it on Ebay. Thanks girls, I'll keep you posted.

[KnottedYet]

If you get it and can't make it work for you, I'd sell it here on TE or on the Terry site before Ebay. Sell it to an audience who knows what it's really worth! (If I didn't already have 2 steel bikes and weren't 2,000 miles away I'd happily pay up to $400 for that Terry. $500 if I was madly in love with it.)

Don't get too caught up comparing size numbers between a hybrid, a mtb, and a road bike. They are all going to have unique personalities and unique fits regardless of numbers.

Just buy the damm bike!!!

[Triskeliongirl]

[QUOTE=surgtech1956;208506]My hybrid frame is 15" and seems fine - I think sometimes I'm in between sizes, my mtn bike was a 17.5 and seemed too big. QUOTE]

The mountain bike may have been too big cuz the top tube was too long. An advantage of the small front wheel is that it will have a more proportionally sized top tube. I think you can't go wrong on it. If it really doesn't fit you can probably make money selling it either here on TE or at the terry website.

[surgtech1956]

Didn't win the auction. The Precision sold for $380. I'm sure its worth it. I'm watching a few bikes. Terry must not be that popular of a bike?? Thanks for all your advice and info. I really appreciate it.