??????? I'll have to check it out, since I don't think I've ever seen a bike computer that reads out wheel rpm's..... seems like pretty useless data on a bike.
??????? I'll have to check it out, since I don't think I've ever seen a bike computer that reads out wheel rpm's..... seems like pretty useless data on a bike.
"Sharing the road means getting along, not getting ahead" - 1994 Washington State Driver's Guide
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A couple of my Cateyes read RPM and yeah, at least for me, pretty useless info. Maybe if I wanted to grate cheese or something?![]()
I used to have an open mind but my brains kept falling out.
This might be a dumb question, but whenever I raise my cadence pretty high, (no computer so I don't know 'how high' I end up bouncing on my seat. Not a sway-back-and-forth-to-reach-the-pedals bounce.... is my seat too low? What's the deal?
High cadence actually takes a fair amount of practice and most people unaccustomed to it will bounce, even if their seat is perfect. The trick is to just practice and strengthen the muscles that are used for it. Try to relax your butt and that should help too. Take yourself up to the cadence at which you are bouncing and then back off just to the point at which you are pedaling smoothly again and pedal for 20-30 seconds. Do that a couple of times every time you go out and ride and eventually you should be able to increase your cadence without bouncing.
"Sharing the road means getting along, not getting ahead" - 1994 Washington State Driver's Guide
visit my flickr stream http://flic.kr/ps/MMu5N
For higher cadence, you want to pedal quick, but not out of control quick. There may be some butt movement, but if there is too much, you will bounce off the bike! (well, you will notice you don't have much control). So there is definitely a fine balance in terms of cadence/"resistance".
"The greater the obstacle, the more glory in overcoming it."-Moliere
"Our greatest weakness lies in giving up. The most certain way to succeed is always to try just one more time." -Thomas A. Edison
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Hi Jenn,
No need to buy another computer. Some of the computers display the cadence information in rpm. Wheel RPM translates to speed.
If your computer didn't have the cadence information, not to worry. Pedal at what you feel comfortable. And if you don't want your legs to burn then drop a gear and increase your spin (no mashing of pedals). If you spin too fast for what feels right for you, you'll know pretty quick because you don't feel like you have it together in pedalling and you tend to bounce in your seat.
High cadence requires practice (eden and RoadRaven said so). I think it has a lot to do with the body's ability in turning on and off the muscles quickly. Do it too fast and the body loses the rythm and you end up bouncing.
Too much information on computer can be distracting to good riding or riding in good efficient form.
I train a lot at 100rpm (since it was in my training guide)
What I did was make a list:
100 rpm at 39x17 is about 28km/h
100 rpm at 39x16 is about 31km/h
100 rpm at 39x15 is about 33km/h
etc....
So I know by my current speed and gear if I am doing the (roughly) correct rpm. If not then I either adjust the pace or change gear.
My new baby for 2007
Smooth, round, efficient pedal strokes is the key and practice. The old standby description is try to pedal round, it's like scraping your foot on a doormat at the bottom of the pedal stroke and you have to consciously concentrate on pedaling over the top of your pedal stroke too.
Sometimes, I used to practice while going downhill where you are on top of your gear and beyond, i.e. low gear, hardly any resistance, spin as fast as you can going downhill. Pretty soon, you will be spinning faster.
When you start bouncing, it may be that you're not able to control yourself when your legs get going that fast, but it may also be a sign that you've outspun your gear. Try shifting one cog harder and see if it helps without slowing your legs way down. You want to have some resistance under your feet.