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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    191
    Ditto on the saddle issue... Everything works together to produce ideal body mechanics, smooth pedal strokes, stable core... But it would be tough to keep your hips and core stable if they weren't positioned right. When I first got my roadbike, after a bit I notice that I too wobbled when I got into higher RPMs... I took it in to the shop and he tweaked my saddle height. I don't remember which way it went though. I don't wobble any more.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    898
    I've always heard and read that having the saddle too high causes your hips to bounce back and forth, trying to compensate for the reach. And it's especially pronounced at higher cadences. If you can't take the bike in for a fit, I'd try lowering your saddle just a tiny bit. It doesn't take much to make a difference. Try just a 1/4 inch. See how it feels. When you find the height that works for you, mark that place on your saddle so you can always find it.

    Also, keep working on your spinning. It takes time to develop a smooth pedal stroke. Think circles as you pedal. Even pressure on the pedals the entire revolution of your legs. Easier said than done, but it gets to be second nature eventually.

    BTW, a cadence of 85+ is a good place to be. If you can keep that up, and work on your pedal stroke, you are on way to some great cycling!

    Annie
    Time is a companion that goes with us on a journey. It reminds us to cherish each moment, because it will never come again. What we leave behind is not as important as how we have lived." Captain Jean Luc Picard

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Middle Earth
    Posts
    3,997
    Just reinforcing the "get your seat height checked" message.

    If that is fine, then the bouncing should rectify itself as your legs get smoother at pedalling a high cadence.

    But first stop is def your bike fit.


    Courage does not always roar. Sometimes, it is the quiet voice at the end of the day saying,
    "I will try again tomorrow".


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Riding my Luna & Rivendell in the Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    8,411
    If your saddle is too high you will experience more hip rocking, but not really "bouncing".
    The only time I experience bouncing is when I shift into a lower front gear too soon without bringing the back gears closer- thus spinning way too fast and bouncing way too much. It just means I'm in TOO LOW a gear for the moment and I upshift in the back until I smooth into the right pace.
    If your back gear is in the easiest position, don't upshift into your middle ring in front until you have shifted out of your easiest back gear by a couple of gears.
    Lisa
    My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
    My personal blog:My blog
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    1,080
    It takes time (and training) to learn to spin a high cadence. What you're experiencing is natural for a new cyclist and most likely isn't related to bike fit at all.

    To train yourself to spin a higher cadence, start in small increments. Find your natural cadence (the cadence you would spin if you were just riding with no biofeedback about your cadence). Then, for five minute intervals, try to add 5-10rpms. Recover and repeat. Soon your natural cadence will be higher.

    If you're bouncing, it most likely indicates a lack of muscular strength (natural with a beginner). Because you're not strong enough to spin a high cadence with a harder gear, you spin an easier gear than you can biomechanically control (ie you bounce).

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Bathurst, Australia
    Posts
    90
    Thanks everyone for your replies and advice which seems to follow a common thread. It's good to hear that if I'm persistent I should improve. I think I will get my fit checked at my next service, I'm pretty sure it's right as the LBS did it just 4 months ago but no harm in getting it looked at just in case.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Jersey
    Posts
    294
    3 things to add outside of what everybody has said about saddle height:

    1) if you're new than you probably haven't developed high cadence pedalling techinque yet. it takes time and time is the only way to build it! practice practice practice. before you know it your avg cadence will increase from week to week on your rides.

    2) one thing that works for me to smooth out my pedalling at higher cadence is to focus on keeping my heels down a little bit from wherever they were. it's a natural tendency to pedal "toe down" as your cadence increases. if i focus in keeping my heels down so my feet are flatter (note: by flatter i mean relative to the "toe down" position, not actually level) than what my feet do automatically, it's much more smooth and i actually have a higher power output via my powertap.

    3) what also works for me in keeping a smooth rhythm if i'm riding tempo or doing an interval, i focus on the top half of the pedal stroke. i think it's Lemond(?) that says to think about scraping something off of the bottom of your shoe and pull your foot back at the bottom of the pedal stroke. for me it's the opposite that works better. i focus on pulling across the top as if i could pull my foot directly from the 9 o'clock to the 3 o'clock position. it makes more sense to think of it this way anyway because when people do one-legged drills - where's the dead spot? at the top! so why not focus on pulling your leg/foot across the top and this easily eliminates that problem and gives you a fluid pedal stroke.


 

 

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