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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    2,024
    Quote Originally Posted by teigyr View Post
    Going from 30 to 50 while shifting seems a huge jump but as they said, it isn't that much worse than a 34 to 50..
    That sounds like very bad advice to me. I was advised the biggest jump you can have between front rings is 16 teeth, so a 50/34 is already at the limit of all known front derailleurs when my crank set was being built.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,764
    Thanks Triskeliongirl. The guy that suggested that was the person who orders the parts. When my bike got up there, three of them conferred and decided that the best thing was to change the cassette and dearailleur so I will have a 13-29 cassette. That 30 chainring sounded funny to me also especially because I already have to coax it to shift up as it is now.

    It really is an awesome bike and I hope nothing is compromised by the changes but I can't put in as much time riding as I'd like and it's frustrating to be on a hill in my highest gear knowing that the hill better end because I can go no higher. I've always been so stubborn in not wanting a triple but I guess that is when I was in better shape. And who knows, I guess if I feel fits of stubbornness at a later time, I can put the old equipment back on

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Troutdale, OR
    Posts
    2,600
    Even with a short cage you can use the 13-29 cassette PROVIDED that you don't use the 50 chain ring in the front with 29 cog on the cassette.

    Need chain whip on a cassette I thought all you needed was the sprocket-wrench-thingy-magingy to loosen the lock ring that holds the cassette in place.

    And definitly 30-50 chainring is a really BAD BAD idea.

    Do check the spec on the rear dearailleur though. And good choice for a bike. Orbea is really nice.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,764
    smilingcat, I used to have the same type of deal on the Bianchi. When I moved to WA, the LBS here actually said they refused to leave the components on the bike due to the fact it was dangerous. I don't know who would go large gear to large gear....grrrr. I'm willing to pay for the change if it's for the best of the bike and I really really look forward to going on hills with less fear!

    Thanks, I love the Orbea! The only thing that gets to me, sometimes, it is so noticeable. I have trouble riding as well as it looks

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by smilingcat View Post
    Even with a short cage you can use the 13-29 cassette PROVIDED that you don't use the 50 chain ring in the front with 29 cog on the cassette.
    But on rare occassions one may shift to the largest rear cog without remembering which front cog one is on. In that case, the chain would jam and it wouldn't be good. You may damage chain, derailleurs, cogs, or crash.

    Quote Originally Posted by smilingcat View Post
    Need chain whip on a cassette I thought all you needed was the sprocket-wrench-thingy-magingy to loosen the lock ring that holds the cassette in place.
    The cassette will freewheel in the direction you need to turn the lock-ring tool to remove the lock ring. A chain whip is required to keep the cassette from turning. To tighten the lock-ring, you don't need another tool.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,764
    DebW, I did think about that last night. We were discussing it and half the time I don't know what gear I'm in! Cost savings aren't worth damage to either me or the bike. I prefer riding in the larger front cog and could see me staying in that one as long as possible.

    Thank you everyone for all your help! D-Day (or G-Day for gears!) is on tuesday. I am SO excited! It makes me want to go find some hills to conquer.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Troutdale, OR
    Posts
    2,600
    Quote Originally Posted by DebW View Post
    But on rare occassions one may shift to the largest rear cog without remembering which front cog one is on. In that case, the chain would jam and it wouldn't be good. You may damage chain, derailleurs, cogs, or crash.



    The cassette will freewheel in the direction you need to turn the lock-ring tool to remove the lock ring. A chain whip is required to keep the cassette from turning. To tighten the lock-ring, you don't need another tool.
    Hi Deb,

    Yes if your chain is too short to span the 50 tooth chain ring and the 29 rear cog, you could damage several things including the rear derailleur. so you have to be really careful about it. In a race situation, would you be using a 29 cog?? I used to use 11/19 (11-12-13-14-15-17-19) a corn cob more or less (I think those were the sizes of cogs and before cassettes) and 39/53 chainring. As you can tell I'm dating myself And if there were major climbs involved I woud opt for more normal clusters like 11/25

    Maybe my memory is failing me. I haven't disassembled a bike in like 6 years or so. I quit riding back in 2001 and just started back up against wishes of my loved ones. I just take it easy these days and let LBS deal with bike maintenance.

    Thanks, I wont throw away my chain whip or other parker tools. I think pedro's degreaser is still good after 6 years or so???...

    Shawn
    Last edited by smilingcat; 04-14-2007 at 06:55 AM.

 

 

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