17+ ????!!!!
(said in awe with strong tints of jealousy) What are they and how do they differ for you?
oh... you just made me feel better ...![]()
17+ ????!!!!
(said in awe with strong tints of jealousy) What are they and how do they differ for you?
oh... you just made me feel better ...![]()
Push the pedal down watch the world around fly by us
I would love to learn how to do more myself. I plan on taking some classes at REI one of these days. Beyond keeping it cleaned and lubed the rest gets done at the LBS.
I'm spoiled because the mechanic is also a friend of mine so he always offers to do anything that's needed. I went in to buy some new bar tape and I wasn't even allowed to try and put it on myself. When I said I could, I was told that "No, you really can't" ..... he has no confidence in my technical abilities. And unfortunately at this point he's completely right.
With Mz Cakes, I could do most of the basics myself. i.e. derailleur adjustment, brake adjustment, indexing, cable threading etc...
Merqueri is very different... but I want to try.
Last night I seasoned the chain with Prolink lube (clean with degreaser, then dish soap, then dry, lube liberally, throw in the oven at 300* stick a fork in it- it's done!) and cleaned the rest of the drive train... replaced the pedals (with my smartys!)
...tonight I venture into the scary world of replacing handlebars and stem... and wrapping!![]()
any suggestions?
Should I "just not try?"
Then again,
I could wrap a damm mean bat back in the day... (and wooden katanas/wakizashis etc....)![]()
Sure. Go for it. If you remove the stem on a threadless fork, you have to readjust the headset - just a matter of getting the correct tension on the allen bolt on top before you clamp down the stem. Wrapping bars in not much harder than wrapping a bat, except for the BENDS and the BRAKE LEVERS. Overlap turns by 1/3 and try to stretch the tape as you round a bend. And try not to run out of tape before the end of the bar.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
Deb- I knew you'd have some wisdom for meThank you. Regarding the proper tension on the allen bolt, is that something with an inherent trick to it, or should it feel self-explanatory?
any suggestions for wrapping around the brake levers?
You suggest I ride unwrapped?Originally Posted by Lisa S.H.
I'm switching the drops that came on it with a slightly different bar. Like the Salsa Short 'n Shallow... and narrower, too. 36cm, fitted to my shoulder width, which fit *inside* the bars the former owner had.
The stem on it currently is pretty long for me. With the seat moved to a place where I get the proper KOP, my torso is stretched way out, with straight elbows to even reach the hoods, so there's a lot of weight on my hands, rather uncomfortably.
But yes, I feel like I'm venturing into very foreign territory. I believe in going what 'feels right'... but the whole concept of riding in that road position, with drop handlebars, is still strange, to the point that I don't know what 'right' is yet.
Last edited by Kitsune06; 04-11-2007 at 10:25 AM.
That's how I felt at first too when I switched from hybrid to road bike. I went through the whole weight on hands thing too, and I didn't really know how it all was "supposed" to feel. It's all new stuff and doesn't always feel right at first. It'll all work well in the end for you. It takes time to recognize what feels right and what works for you. Those sound like a very good choice of bars you are putting on, and good to put a slightly shorter stem. Keep in mind that your body and muscles will also be adjusting with time to the new position, making it slowly become more comfortable as well.
I only meant that before putting your tape on you should ride and make adjustments for a while. Some adjustments, like where the hoods go or how they are slanted, can't be changed after taping up. It won't hurt anything to ride without bar tape for a week or two- just put some electrical tape here and there to hold the cables in place until you tape.
As to tips for taping around the brake levers- you can cut a 3" piece of tape before you start, and wrap it around the bar right at the hood area, with the ends pointing up where they will be covered by the hood gums when you fold it back down. This will cover the little triangular bar "gap" for you and make it easier to just skip and angle around the gap under hoods as you tape along with the long piece. The long tape will cover the edges of the 3" piece as you go.
Lisa
My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
My personal blog:My blog
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I'm wondering if it'd be possible or advisable to wrap temporarily using the wrap that's currently on the older bars; something that, while not great looking, would still provide some 'grip' just in case it rains. (I intend to use Merqueri to commute for awhile to get the feel for her new positioning) hanging on to bare metal bar, using a semi-broken-in brooks (with a plastic bag on it if it rains...) sounds like a slippery affair, but I agree that making the leap to final taping so quickly may be hasty moving on my part.
When I wrapped my bars with cloth tape last year, it took 3 tries on one side before I reached the end. Double ouch. I like to put a fancy figure-8 around the levers, and that's an extra 2 wraps. I think that was the last time I'll go for cloth tape. Besides being short, the stuff doesn't stretch and makes it tough to go around bends without leaving wrinkles. Wise choice of tape will make the job easier.
For the allen bolt above the stem, see http://www.parktool.com/repair/readh...p?id=65#adjust. Leave the stem loose, take out the play in the fork with the allen bolt in the top cap, then tighten the stem bolts. You can play with it by moving the allen bolt
in 1/8 turn increments and checking it out. Should feel smooth but with no play in the fork and no binding. Try riding it a tad loose and a tad tight to get the feel for it. It will be obvious when you do.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
Are you replacing the drop bars with something else? Are you putting a shorter stem on?
My suggestion is to do the replacing stem and bars thing first- but don't wrap the bars yet. Ride it for a couple of weeks, because you may well want to make adjustments in where the hoods sit, or the hood angles. It is also quite possible that you will want a different size stem than what you are putting on. These things are hard to judge after one or two rides- especially if you are new to the dropped down road posture. Once you wrap, you can't make these changes anymore until you strip the tape and buy new tape again.
If you put too short a stem, your steering will become wobbly and annoying. Your body will slowly adapt to the new position to a certain extent, and the reach will seem less long and way more comfortable after a couple of months riding.
Lisa
My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
My personal blog:My blog
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^