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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    The Veloce 10 spd comes in a short cage or medium cage version. I didn't find specific tooth ranges on the campy web site. But I'd guess you've got the medium cage with a compact double front, in which case you can probably go to a 12-27 cassette without modification (other than chain links). Stop by your LBS and ask them.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,764

    And yet more questions!

    I did talk my LBS and learned my options. I can go 13-26 with no modifications but that really doesn't add all that much. Or does it? I've been caught in my highest gear struggling several times lately and while one more would've been nice, I'm not sure that is the final solution because the hills I've been on haven't been that bad!

    If I have the medium cage on my bike, is there a longer one? To get to a 13-29, I'd need the long one but I'm not finding it. Also, if I change this out, will anything be compromised? My bike rides well and shifts well and the last thing I want to do is mess with it and have it do things like lose chains, etc.

    Does anyone have experience with this? Would I lose anything by changing this?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,764

    p.s.

    LBS, who will be looking at my bike later today, suggested swapping my 34 chainring to a 30. I am basically looking for the best climbing with the least impact to my bike. Cost isn't so much an issue as long as the bike rides correctly. Going from 30 to 50 while shifting seems a huge jump but as they said, it isn't that much worse than a 34 to 50.

    Would it be better to change the front and leave the back alone?

    DH will be escorting my bike and will be reporting back to me - I'm at work.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    2,024
    Quote Originally Posted by teigyr View Post
    Going from 30 to 50 while shifting seems a huge jump but as they said, it isn't that much worse than a 34 to 50..
    That sounds like very bad advice to me. I was advised the biggest jump you can have between front rings is 16 teeth, so a 50/34 is already at the limit of all known front derailleurs when my crank set was being built.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,764
    Thanks Triskeliongirl. The guy that suggested that was the person who orders the parts. When my bike got up there, three of them conferred and decided that the best thing was to change the cassette and dearailleur so I will have a 13-29 cassette. That 30 chainring sounded funny to me also especially because I already have to coax it to shift up as it is now.

    It really is an awesome bike and I hope nothing is compromised by the changes but I can't put in as much time riding as I'd like and it's frustrating to be on a hill in my highest gear knowing that the hill better end because I can go no higher. I've always been so stubborn in not wanting a triple but I guess that is when I was in better shape. And who knows, I guess if I feel fits of stubbornness at a later time, I can put the old equipment back on

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Troutdale, OR
    Posts
    2,600
    Even with a short cage you can use the 13-29 cassette PROVIDED that you don't use the 50 chain ring in the front with 29 cog on the cassette.

    Need chain whip on a cassette I thought all you needed was the sprocket-wrench-thingy-magingy to loosen the lock ring that holds the cassette in place.

    And definitly 30-50 chainring is a really BAD BAD idea.

    Do check the spec on the rear dearailleur though. And good choice for a bike. Orbea is really nice.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,764
    smilingcat, I used to have the same type of deal on the Bianchi. When I moved to WA, the LBS here actually said they refused to leave the components on the bike due to the fact it was dangerous. I don't know who would go large gear to large gear....grrrr. I'm willing to pay for the change if it's for the best of the bike and I really really look forward to going on hills with less fear!

    Thanks, I love the Orbea! The only thing that gets to me, sometimes, it is so noticeable. I have trouble riding as well as it looks

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by smilingcat View Post
    Even with a short cage you can use the 13-29 cassette PROVIDED that you don't use the 50 chain ring in the front with 29 cog on the cassette.
    But on rare occassions one may shift to the largest rear cog without remembering which front cog one is on. In that case, the chain would jam and it wouldn't be good. You may damage chain, derailleurs, cogs, or crash.

    Quote Originally Posted by smilingcat View Post
    Need chain whip on a cassette I thought all you needed was the sprocket-wrench-thingy-magingy to loosen the lock ring that holds the cassette in place.
    The cassette will freewheel in the direction you need to turn the lock-ring tool to remove the lock ring. A chain whip is required to keep the cassette from turning. To tighten the lock-ring, you don't need another tool.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

 

 

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