Upgrade from low-end mtb to a mid-range road bike - suggestions?

[KnottedYet]

And if you want full steel for cheap, try the Jamis Aurora. You can put smooth road tires on it, the geometry is great for touring, though the components are low-grade Shimano Tiagra and Deore, they aren't bad. It has all the braze-ons for fenders and racks.

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/...es/aurora.html

At least give one a test-ride so you can see how full steel feels. (I think it costs about $850) It's like butter. I nearly bought one. (I got a used lugged steel Waterford instead.)

You can also ask your bike shop about the Surly Long Haul Trucker (full steel) packages. There are 3 levels of components that can be ordered as packages from QBP. I think the very highest level is still under $2,000. Those are also lovely bikes, with a loyal following. http://www.surlybikes.com/lht_comp.html

Take a look at the various saddle threads for saddle ideas. Your first step is to measure your sit bones and figure out if you like wide nose/gradual shape or narrow nose/abrupt shape.

[Grog]

With that budget (and less) you can get a great road bike.

The setting you're talking about (alu + carbon) with Ultegra is great. You could do very well with 105 as well, and invest more in the accessories: great saddle, great bike shorts, good rigid cycling shoes (they make a world of difference on climbs, and you'll have lots of those in Italy) with automatic pedals, etc. Wheels also matter, but it's not my forte.

At your weight, the lighter bike will make a huge difference.

A good saddle and a good fit will also allow you to be much stronger. When you can't sit right on that bike, you can't really transfer the weight to the pedal.

Good luck! And get back to us with your shopping reports! Welcome to the wonderful world of TE.

[michelem]

Thanks! Well, I just got back from REI where I had them install my clipless pedals and got to practice clipping in and out a few times. I think I'm going to need to practice many more before venturing out on the road with them! Also bought some 1 inch slick tires. The salesguy said he used the same kind on his mountain bike for a long (multiple days) trip to Mt. Whitney. I never thought of using skinnier tires on a mtb. Guess I figured the weight of the bike would be prohibitive. We'll have to see!

Next will be the saddle. I did get some bike shorts with chamois last week and wore them on yesterday's ride. Didn't seem to make much of a difference, but again, I think I've got a crummy saddle, so probably nothing will make much difference until I get a better one! So, guess I need to measure my sit-bones (what an entertaining thread!) and then go test-ride some saddles! At least some of these things will transfer over to the new bike (pedals and saddle) . . .

I'm going to look into your other suggestions and, yes, I'll keep you posted! Thanks for the warm welcome.

[stella]

for $2000.00 you will be able to get a great bike w/good components.

you've been given excellent advice here.

I can vouch for a steel frame. my road bike (my baby!) is steel frame w/carbon fork and carbon seat post (I'm trying top let my bones age w/minimal damage!). I really notice the difference of a steel frame at about mile 40. (my old road bike was aluminum w/carbon fork and carbon seat post--also a 49cm like my current road bike--too harsh after 40 miles).

the bottom line: test ride, test ride, test ride. get connected with a bike shop that will know what type of riding you will do...that will also treat you with respect, too.

saddles are personal, I know use a brooks on both my commuter and my road bike.

[uforgot]

I have to agree about the steel, but I had a Jamis Quest which had a similar geometry to the Aurora, and I really can't recommend it for touring! I didn't like how the bars were so much lower than the seat. I think if you are touring, you would want the handlebars even with the seat like a Rivendell or Waterford. I bought a Women's specific frame and moved my Quest parts because I could get the bars up even with the seat only with a Delta Stem Raiser on the Jamis. Everyone is different, however. Make sure you try try try before you buy. If you go to the Rivendell site, they talk about seat height vs bar height. I learned a lot from it.

[KnottedYet]

The Jamis Aurora I rode had handlebars about 1 inch higher than the seat. It was sooooo comfy! I was seriously tempted! Went back and test-rode that critter 3 times.

MicheleM- If you order a bike, make sure your bike shop knows you don't want them trimming the steerer until you're sure where you want the bars. The impression I've had lately is that most shops are leaving the tubes alone until the bike is purchased.

I was trying to decide between the Jamis Aurora and a Surly Long Haul Trucker (or Soma copy of the LHT), then Flossie the Waterford X-12 came into my life... and the rest is history! (BTW her bars are also about 1 inch higher than the seat thanks to the miracle of quilled stems)

This is the stem riser Uforgot mentioned. http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Alloy-Bi.../dp/B000FHBED0 It will add back steerer tube length without you having to buy a new fork with a longer steerer tube. If you have the option of a quilled stem, talk to your LBS. They are awfully convenient for adjustments.

[uforgot]

Well, that's what I get for buying used! I would have loved it if my Jamis had had those high bars. Glad to know I can look for the long steerer tubes if I ever have that new bike feeling again. At any rate, our dialogue will help Michelem know a little bit more about the fit she wants!