looks like chocolate syrup. bad chocolate syrup.![]()
looks like chocolate syrup. bad chocolate syrup.![]()
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson
I went to Harris Cyclery on Saturday for parts. Got a new 32 hole rim for the front wheel, spokes, gear cable and pulley, chain and sprocket (the old ones were probably usable, but why not start fresh?), pedals, handlebar grips, rim tape, and AW indicator spindle. Also sprung for a new Brooks B72L but I may throw the old saddle back on until I'm sure that the project is worth that expense. At this point I'm waiting for a 40 hole rear rim, 4 pawl springs for the rear hub (I could just reuse the old ones but official repair documents say to replace them) and a used stem bolt. Think I'll have to pull the chaincase back off to size and align the chain. I'm thinking I may lace up the wheels without axles in the hubs - the rear hub is just a shell right now with all the innards out of it. In my shop years ago, we had holes drilled in the work bench for bolt-on axles to stick into while lacing wheels. Since I'm reluctant to drill holes in my current workbench, I think I'll leave the axles out until I'm ready to true the new wheels. The front wheels gets built with short spokes and 2x on the dynamo side, long spokes and 3x on the other side. Rear wheel in 4x with 40 spokes.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
I started on the front wheel build last night. Below is a picture of the front wheel with the old rusty steel rim, and then the dynohub after I cut out the spokes. Looks like the front rim is original and the rear a later replacement, based on pictures I found of original Raleigh rims. I laced up the larger dynamo side of the hub and all was well. Then I tried lacing the other side and found out my spokes were too long. I could have laced it 4-cross, but 32-hole hubs do not like to be laced 4-cross. I took in a few old spokes when I bought new, but Elton had to round up by 1-2 mm to match a size he had. Today I found an online spoke calculator with Sturmey Archer hubs, and I need to go 6 mm shorter. So I'll head back to Harris Cyclery Thursday or Friday and swap spokes. The non-dynamo side of this hub is hard to deal with - every pair of spoke holes is linked by a hole large enough to fit the spoke head through (since the dynamo side is so large that spokes can't be inserted through). Makes it hard to hold the spoke head in place when lacing, and sometimes they fall out when you're not looking. Also you can't shift a spoke one hole since the hub allows a pull from only one direction. Since the old rim was right handed and the new one left-handed (or vice versa, anyway they are different) I may have to settle for less-than-optimum valve hole placement.
Last edited by DebW; 07-19-2009 at 10:44 AM.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
cool, Deb.
What about that rusty bolt? is that going to get restored too? Or just hidden eventually?
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
The front wheel is done, brand new Sun alloy rim and butted spokes.
Last edited by DebW; 07-19-2009 at 10:44 AM.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
it's beeeeooooootiful!![]()
"If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson