Thinking about buying a Specialized Ruby Comp

[Kathi]

Years ago, mid nineties, the trend was to shorten the tt on small mtn bike frames but not to change the seat tube angle. When Cannondale came out with the Compact frame (1st WSD frame on 650c wheels) they decided to steepen the seat tube, as well as shorten the tt and change the head tube angle.

So I wonder if Rivendell stayed with the shorter tt, slacker seat tube for a reason or if the design worked for them and they never changed it?

Many small mtn bikes have the slacker seat tube angles and in 04 I had a hard time finding one to fit because I need the steeper seat tube. I think that why so many small women like the Titus mtn bikes.

[BleeckerSt_Girl]

So I wonder if Rivendell stayed with the shorter tt, slacker seat tube for a reason or if the design worked for them and they never changed it?

Not sure if this answers or not, but:
Rivendell has always favored a more "relaxed" geometry for several reasons. Mainly, they believe thier bikes should be comfortable to ride for long distances. So to attain that goal...they makes their bikes with a slightly more long-low geometry than typical road bikes, because they feel that is a more comfortable ride for long happy hours in the saddle. They like the handlebars to be about the same height as the seat, for a less bent over rider position. In their belief that one should be able to ride on rough roads as well as smooth, and touring through bad weather if necessary, they build in clearance to be able to put fenders and/or fat tires --up to about 38mm wide.

[Kathi]

In that case a Rivendell would not work for me. I'm a perfect example of why the 1 size fits all philosophy doesn't work, even with bicycle fitting.

My old mtn bike has a 72.5 degree seat tube angle. When I ride it I'm mostly on the nose of the saddle. With a zero degree seatpost and my saddle all the way forward I still can't get centered on the bike. If I sit on the saddle the way I'm supposed to I can't don't get good power on the pedals. If I move forward on the saddle to get centered on the bike, I'm on the nose.

On my bikes with the steeper seat tube angles I have no issues of where my body is. Someone told me one time that the body seeks a neutral position on the bike. The only way I can get that position is with a steep seat tube angle.

That's why generalizations can't be made about women's fit, we're all different
and that's why some women have problems with WSD bikes, they don't fit the standards that bike companies have come up with.

[li10up]

I'm supposed to go for a fitting on Thursday to get my Allez to fit better and then they can transfer those to a new bike.

Since I don't understand what you all are saying I'm wondering if I should even go forward with buying a new bike. If I'm going to plop down $2000 bucks for a new bike shouldn't I be better informed? Relaxed geometry vs. agressive...top tube angles, etc., etc. ....I'm lost.

[Kathi]

Find out the credentials of the fitter. If they have had training from a company, ie Serotta, then trust them. If they just read a book find someone else. My LBS in Cincy had experience eyeballing people but he missed the short arm, short femur issue and was fitting me like the guys. The more you know about fit the better off you are.

I just posted these on another thread but are a good start. It shows the kind of things a good fitter looks for.

http://womenspecific.com/daily-feed/...r-next-bicycle

http://womenspecific.com/cycling/35/...women-specific

Also, Andy Pruitt's book "Complete Medical guide for Cyclists" is a good source on bike fit.

[li10up]

Well, I've had to postpone my bike fit until next Tue. I've read the links that were given me and feel like I'm a little more informed. Sounds like what my LBS is going to do is just a basic fit - even if I buy a new bike from them that's all I'll get unless I want to fork over some $. Seems like they shouldn't charge for a fit if I buy a bike...esp. a $2000 bike! IMO.

I'd like to get your opinions. The Specialized Rep recommended a Ruby Comp for me. Granted she didn't do anything more than just look at me and ask some questions. So, I'm 5' 5.5" and 165 pounds (working on that ). I want to improve my speed - currently avg. about 15 mph on rolling terrain on a 20 mile ride. I want to be able to keep up with the guys on the club rides without one of them having to come back to me or them waiting on me, and I want to improve on my climbing. I also want to start incorporating longer rides - perhaps 40 to 50 mile rides on a Sat. or Sun. I also want to ride a couple of tours each season. I've done 2 metrics but I want to do an imperial century (is that the correct term?). This will be my 3rd season of riding.

So, knowing all that do you think a Specialized Ruby Comp would be a good bike for me? It's carbon. Am I too heavy for a carbon bike? Will I have to baby it going over RR tracks, etc?

[Eden]

Am I too heavy for a carbon bike? Will I have to baby it going over RR tracks, etc?

If big 6 footer racing guys can ride carbon you should not worry... really they build airplanes out of the stuff - its not as fragile as everyone would like to think. The thing is if you do damage it then there isn't anything you can do to fix it, but you don't have to worry about pot holes/RR tracks cracking the frame. Even when big George broke his bike last year at Paris Roubaix it was an aluminium steerer that broke not the carbon parts of the bike and that was from riding it after he'd already crashed.