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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Riding my Luna & Rivendell in the Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    8,411
    My first 3 months were with the way long 9cm stem and I could not get comfortable with the long reach. Switched to a 5cm stem which felt instantly WAY better and seemed just fine. It certainly solved the problem at the time.

    However, after another 5 months of riding on this short stem, I think my core muscles have strengthened and I've become a better and stronger rider. So now I'm starting to bump up against the limitations of the shorter stem whereas before it was simply a matter of being far more comfortable and I wasn't pushing myself or the bike so much.
    My next step is to try a compromise- switch to a 7cm stem and perhaps my stronger core muscles now will help me feel ok with the reach increase. I feel almost now like I could USE an extra cm or two in the "cockpit"- odd how our needs might change as we get stronger. It's a subtle thing though, and my bike is still quite comfortable for me as it is now, so I'll swap the stem for a 7 the next time I might bring it in for some work or a tuneup.
    Nothing like first hand experience to help one figure all this stuff out!
    Lisa
    My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
    My personal blog:My blog
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    2,024
    Quote Originally Posted by Lisa S.H. View Post
    My first 3 months were with the way long 9cm stem and I could not get comfortable with the long reach. Switched to a 5cm stem which felt instantly WAY better and seemed just fine. It certainly solved the problem at the time......My next step is to try a compromise- switch to a 7cm stem and perhaps my stronger core muscles now will help me feel ok with the reach increase.
    Lisa, a 9 cm stem is not way long, it is an ideal size from a handling perspective. If I were you, rather than buying a 7 cm stem, I would buy a short reach bar (same cost as new stem). The Rivendell iyou have is spec'd with a nitto noodle, which is a great bar (I have it on my bikes) but a long reach bar (I can only get away with it cuz I have a short top tube and 24" front wheel). If you do indeed have the noodle it has a 9 cm reach. SO, if you pair a 9 cm stem with a short reach bar (both the eva bar mimi likes and the salsa poco have a 7 cm reach), the total reach will be the same as pairing your 9 cm reach bar with a 7 cm stem, but the bike will handle better with the longer stem. Of course if you just love the noodle bar you may not like it though. What you'll lose is that extra hand position behind the hoods, but then you may find you can use the tops more instead. While I love my nitto noodle bar, if I bought a bike with the geometry you did I would switch bars.
    Last edited by Triskeliongirl; 01-30-2007 at 06:12 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Riding my Luna & Rivendell in the Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    8,411
    Triskelion, these are excellent points and I will think about them!
    Right now, off early tomorrow morning for a weeklong trip and no TE....see you all in a week or so!
    Lisa
    My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
    My personal blog:My blog
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    269

    Shifters

    Hi Deb-

    Just thought I'd mention that I used some the suggestions you made (I posted a couple of months ago) when I ordered my custom road bike (won't be here for a few more months but there's snow outside so I don't care).

    I was wanting a compact, but eventually came to realize that I'm just more comfortable having the gearing options of a triple. You suggested dumping the STI shifter for the front derailler and doing a downtube shifter. Ultimately I wound up ordering a STI short reach shifter for the rear brake/derailler and a bar end shifter & standard brake lever for the front brake/derailler. It sounds like this might be an option worth considering for you as well. The STI shifter really is fast and easy for the rear (I have one on my current road bike)- it's the triple where it really seems to make sense to keep the friction shifting option.

    Have fun and good luck!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    anakiwa, that does seem like a nice option, and I hope it works well for you.
    If we get some warm weather in the next month or two, I might go test ride bikes with different shifters before I make my final decision. Barcons are the closest thing currently on the market to the friction downtube shifters I'm used to. I did ride a bike with STI recently for a couple miles, and while the rear did shift nicely, I didn't like the way the lever wobbled back and forth while braking. Besides, I think STI shifters look big and bulbous and ugly. The barcon rear shifter can run in friction or indexed mode, so I won't be locked into only 9 speed cassettes, and the system is field-repairable.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556

    It's built!

    Just found out that my frame is built. It should go to the painter by weeks end.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    I'm the only one allowed to whine
    Posts
    10,557
    Cool!!!!!
    "If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson

 

 

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