early, early, early
Both times we started around 4:15 am. It's great! You avoid major crowds for a very long time---the really fast one-day riders pass you early, and then you have long stretches without tons of people.
"My predominant feeling is one of gratitude. I have loved and been loved;I have been given much and I have given something in return...Above all, I have been a sentient being, a thinking animal, on this beautiful planet, and that in itself has been an enormous privilege and an adventure." O. Sacks