Knitting Question

[Kano]

I've never use circulars, I always use straight needles. And I use the arms of my rocking chair to help when I knit, but I knit left-handed Norweigan style, so I'm weird anyway.

Norwegian style?

Nothing weird in the left-handed part, but what's "Norwegian Style" knitting???

Karen in Boise

[Duck on Wheels]

In Norwegian style knitting you hold the yarn (sometimes several strands of different colors) stretched over an outstretched index finger on the "from"-needle hand (left for me, but I guess if you're knitting left-handed it might be the right). With the "to"-needle you kind of crochet each stitch by hooking the needle around the the yarn from the front or back (depending on whether you're doing a k or p stitch) and pulling through. I've never really mastered this and knit the way I learned in the States just 2 sweaters before my first visit to Norway -- i.e. holding the yarn in my "to"-needle hand, steadying the needles together with the "from"-needle hand mid-stitch, then wrapping the yarn around the needle with the "to"-needle hand before pulling it through the stitch. People who have mastered the Norwegian style are much faster than even masters of the US style. There's also a French style, I've observed, where the "from" needle is kind of planted under your arm. French knitters are super fast at that.

But back to the original question -- go ahead and scrunch the stitches together. And it doesn't matter whether you tend to knit tight or loose. Just be sure to knit up a test patch and check how many stitches and rows you're getter per 4x4-inch block, or however they state the gauge in the pattern (stitches per 10 cm, stitches per inch, inches per x number of stitches, or whatever). If your stitches are smaller than the pattern is based on, then try a larger needle until you get the right gauge. If they're bigger, then try a smaller needle. That way your knitted product comes out in the size and tightness of weave the pattern illustration has led you to expect.

[Offthegrid]

I triple the vote for the Addi Turbos. Once you knit with these, you will never want to use another needle again.

[kaybee]

Ladies, thanks so much for all the great advice. I went to another craft store last night and bought metal, circular needles. Didn't even have time to take them out of the package last night, but will experiment over the long weekend. I will be sure to try the baking-pan-and-hot-water method suggested by SK to uncoil the nylon. I feel much more confident now! Thanks again.

KB

[Kano]

Kaybee, I think you'll love the circulars, especially as your project gets heavier and heavier! I've gotten very fond of them over the years -- got rid of most of my straight needles long ago, when I stopped knitting for a while, and haven't bought any of that kind now that I'm getting back into it all again.

My newest circular needle experiment -- socks done with what's called the "magic loop" method, where you use a very long circular needle. I like it LOTS, especially for the socks I've been making for my two month old grandson!

Karen in Boise

[margo49]

Yeah, Lisa that tight British and colonial knitting is particularly obvious in the fishing jerseys and guernseys. The wool had to have a wind-breaking effect as well as being warm in the North Sea, the Irish Sea and the Roaring Forties . None of this arty farty loose knitting on big needles that gets you finished quicker. Even the yarn was thin (4 ply at most). I can remember my grandmother thinking my mother was being lazy using Double-knitting (8 Ply) on our jerseys (sweaters) as children.
Oh, Duck-ie ; I have seen that round-your-finger thing. It is soooo inelegant.

Arrgh... this is making my fingers itchy

[Bikingmomof3]

Margo,
My largest size needle is a 4,0mm. Mainly I knit my sweaters on 3,0mm and 3,5mm. The majority of my knitting is sweaters, mainly Norwegian patterns or guernseys. I only use Addi Turbo circs, except mittens and socks (1,75mm-2,0mm), where I use short dpn Addis. I cannot imagine knitting with a needle larger than a 4,0mm.

My friend decided to knit and her smallest needle is a 15.

[Haudlady]

Hello all you knitters! I've got a question for you... I have been a weaver for many years, and am just now getting into spinning too (ha! I mean spinning yarn here, not spinning bikes! ).

Anyway, the yarns I am spinning (charitably called "novelty" - I don't have even tension yet) are really not suitable for weaving (or at least not for the warp), so I am afraid that I will have to try knitting too!

Does anyone have any recommendations of good books that I could learn from? I can't afford a class right now, so will need to borrow a book from the library. Anybody have a favorite?

Thanks so much... and I apologize if this is too far off topic.

[Duck on Wheels]

Yeah, Lisa that tight British and colonial knitting is particularly obvious in the fishing jerseys and guernseys. The wool had to have a wind-breaking effect as well as being warm in the North Sea, the Irish Sea and the Roaring Forties . None of this arty farty loose knitting on big needles that gets you finished quicker. Even the yarn was thin (4 ply at most). I can remember my grandmother thinking my mother was being lazy using Double-knitting (8 Ply) on our jerseys (sweaters) as children.
Oh, Duck-ie ; I have seen that round-your-finger thing. It is soooo inelegant.

Arrgh... this is making my fingers itchy

That wind-breaking effect also comes from getting the garment wet. Wool retains its insulating properties when wet, at least until it's absolutely saturated, and wet wool is denser (i.e. more windproof) than dry. In sports sailing this is used to add weight when you need to counterbalance the boat by leaning out off the gunnels (so long since I've sailed that I've forgotten what that's called). Also, wool that's been repeatedly soaked and then worn wet will also felt, making it denser still (remember that sweater you mistakenly put in the washer or dryer and that came out doll-sized and stiff as a rug?). Or you can knit loose and oversized, then felt the garment down to size. That's what Norwegian fishermen's garments often went through, especially mittens. They're knitted very big and fairly loose, then felted. Multi-colored knitting also makes the fabric denser, since you're running extra yarns along the back between stitches where they're used, and so effectively getting a 2-layered fabric. I have a North-Norway pair of slippers that are bi-color knitted loose, then felted -- very cozy! And then there are the cable and knot patterns that also thicken the fabric -- plus providing an identification key if a drowned body floats ashore. In other words, lots of techniques for staying warm and dry out on the North Sea that are have now become fashion choices because they're also ... dare one say it? ... pretty.

But now it's time to stop dreaming of knitting and get back to work. I have a project proposal deadline looming

[kaybee]

Thanks for the needle advice, ladies. I've started the shawl using the metal circular needles, and it actually looks like it's supposed to! I never thought I would be able to do it, but I can. If you're interested, here's a link to the pattern, with a picture:

http://www.pagebypage.com/fiberhug1.php

I'll post a picture of the finished product when it's done (maybe by Christmas).

KB