Anyone here know about vintage steel bikes?

[DebW]

Kaian, thanks for starting this thread. Didn't know there was a steel person here.

Are you talking about me? DebW, woman of steel - sounds like a superhero.

I have a friend who has a person come out to do mechanical work on their bikes and he's apparently pretty cheap.

Now maybe that's my next occupation: DebW, the traveling steel bike doctor and cheap date. [Note that "date" refers to an appointment with a bicycle (either gender accepted).]

Wow, where are you all finding these old bikes with 700c wheels? Ours are all 27", with the exception of a couple from the 90s. I'm jealous, 700c are so much easier to find.

We are going to try to see if 700cs will work on my mixte (it's really just a matter of whether the brakes will reach) because otherwise I am going to have to order a custom wheelset.

Or DebW, the mail order vintage wheelbuilder - send me your vintage hub and I'll add a new rim.

[kaian]

How would one check for internal rust??? Is there anything I can look for BEFORE I buy it that would tell me whether or not there is rust on the inside?

[DebW]

How would one check for internal rust??? Is there anything I can look for BEFORE I buy it that would tell me whether or not there is rust on the inside?

The only easy thing I can think of is to pull out the seatpost and look in the seat tube. The area around the bottom bracket would be more telling, but not easy to get a peak into. A feel for the condition of the bottom bracket would be a clue. If the bb feels well greased and adjusted, then someone has probably taken care of it regularly, and a good grease job keeps water out. A bb is best felt without the crank arms on the spindle, but barring that, drop the chain off the inner chainring and give the crank a feel and a spin. Spinning freely and smoothly is good. Also try to wiggle the crank arms in directions other than around in circles - any unwanted movement here is bad. Oh, and ask the current owner if he rides in the rain.

[Popoki_Nui]

The only easy thing I can think of is to pull out the seatpost and look in the seat tube. Oh, and ask the current owner if he rides in the rain.

Exactly. Also check for external rust. Especially under the frame tubes, under the BB and chainstays. Check the steel parts of the components (cable clamp bolts, pivots, derailleur springs, brake springs, etc). Check the tiny holes on the inside of the chain and seat stays, and the fork (they are there to allow the frame to breathe; if they are blocked with grunge, any moisture trapped inside the frame can't evaporate and can cause problems)
Minor rust spots from small chips and scratches in the paint is usually nothing to worry about. Larger rusty areas, rust bubbles under the paint, and/or excessively corroded steel component parts can indicate the bike was used or stored in the rain and maybe not cared for as well as it should have been. That's when you want to pull the BB, fork, and have a better look inside.
Chances of major problems from rust is pretty low. I've rejected maybe two or three potential restoration frames in 30 years of restoring steel bikes. However, if you do buy the bike and it needs to be disassembled for cleaning and adjustment, you may wish to have the frame treated internally anyway. It's easy and cheap, if a little messy.

[kaian]

Well, I ended up buying the bike. I got it for $50! It does need some major cleaning and I will probably be taking the bike apart to look at everything. I'm already thinking of handle bar tap colors and matching the bottle cages. hahaha. I'm not even a girly-girl! hahaha.

So how would I treat the bike for rust - since I am taking it all apart? Popoki Nui, you mentioned it was cheap and easy?

There are some surface rust spots and spots where paint is missing. My friend who is helping says he has some ideas on how to deal with those things and that red is easy to match (for touch-up paint). He has restored bikes and cars, so I'm assuming he knows what he's talking about.

I am a grad student, so I am swamped with homework right now, so I probably won't be able to start working on the bike until after Nov. 1st. Perhaps I'll post some "before" pictures, so everyone can see!

[Popoki_Nui]

Hi kaian: you can do this in a one-step (rustproof only), or two-step (neutralize and rustproof) process. You will need to get:
-duct tape
-rust neutralizer liquid (for the two-step process) Any automotive store should carry it. Look for names like Rust-Chek or Rust-Stop, etc. Get a can of liquid; spray cans won't really work here.
-a litre (or pint ) of boiled linseed oil. Any hardware store should have it. Alternately, you can buy any of several bike-specific frame treatment products like Frame-Savr etc. Linseed oil works as well and is usually much cheaper.

-When the front fork and BB, are removed, tape over all those openings completely with duct tape. Also tape over the hole in the chainstay bridge (the small tube connecting the chainstays right behind the BB)
-poke a few small holes in the duct tape at all those locations with a safety pin or something similar
-locate the tiny frame breather holes (usually on the inner side of the chain and seat stays near the rear dropouts, and at the top of the seat stays where they are brazed to the frame up near the seatpost). Carefully clean them out using the tip of a safety pin on thin piece of wire. Don't tape over them.
Two-step process (go to step 2 if you are only rustproofing, and not neutralizing as well):
1)- pour a litre (or pint) of rust neutralizer liquid into the seatpost opening and insert the seatpost back in and tighten the bolt. Then simply rotate the frame slowly by hand, end-over-end and side-over-side several times (slowly) to allow the neutralizer to reach and treat all the internal tubes and joints. Watch for the liquid seeping out the holes you poked in the duct tape, and the frame breather holes. This will help tell you when the liquid is getting to the right places.
-remove the seatpost, and allow all excess liquid to drain out. This may take a while. Rotate the frame occasionally.
-let the frame dry overnight in a warm location.

2)-remove the seatpost and pour a litre or pint of boiled linseed oil into the frame, insert the seatpost again, and use the same slow end-over-end and side-over-side procedure several times to coat all the internal surfaces and joints. This works best in a warm location. When you're sure you have coated all the internal surfaces, remove all the duct tape and drain the excess oil from the frame. Rotate end-over-end etc often until ALL excess oil has drained. Be patient. It may take several hours or even overnight for all the oil to drain out. Allow the frame to dry well. This can take a few days depending on the temperature. Rotate the frame occasionally.
-clean out those tiny seat and chainstay holes with a safety pin so the frame will breathe properly.
-wash all excess oil off the frame, and off the BB threads only, and you're ready to rebuild.
Good luck!

~Sherry.

[kaian]

Wow...thank you!

I will post some pics tomorrow so everyone can see what I'm working with.