Welcome guest, is this your first visit? Click the "Create Account" button now to join.

To disable ads, please log-in.

Shop at TeamEstrogen.com for women's cycling apparel.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 58
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Riding my Luna & Rivendell in the Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    8,411

    To disable ads, please log-in.

    Quote Originally Posted by li10up View Post
    What is the best way to climb...stay in a hard gear as long as possible and then shift or shift sooner? Staying in a hard gear could wear your legs out sooner but down shifting too soon causes you to gain less ground per pedal stroke. So what is the best way?
    I would think it depends a lot on HOW you want to get up that hill. What's the goal for that hill?: Do you want to get up the hill in the least amount of time while pushing your body to the max? Or do you want to get up the hill while conserving your energy so you can better tackle the rest of the ride or the next big hill?
    Lisa
    My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
    My personal blog:My blog
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Boise, Idaho
    Posts
    1,104
    Quote Originally Posted by DDH View Post
    I just keep plugging away though, and hope someday, all of the sudden I will be able to go up a hill at more than 4 mph, and or not have to get off and walk.
    Donna -- this sounds lots like me!!! Well, I'm too stubborn to get off and walk, though on the big ones I stop and breathe for a while here and there. But I sure do get excited when I can stay at 5mph!

    I think plugging away at hills is the key, but I'm very excited to try some of the little things we're reading here!

    Last night, I was thinking I could hardly wait to get back out on the bike. This morning, my leg muscles are saying they're very glad I have to work today and watch the grandbabies tomorrow! That hill yesterday must have been a doozy!

    Karen in Boise

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Bendemonium
    Posts
    9,673
    Quote Originally Posted by Eden View Post
    The comment was accompanied by a photo of Pantani doing exactly that. But seriously, climbing on the tops is recommended because most people find that it expands their chest a bit and makes it easier to breathe and you need as much oxygen as you can get when you are climbing.
    Ah, yes, but notice Pantani's saddle to bar drop compared to Veronica's. The drops on her bars are about where the tops of his are.
    Frends know gud humors when dey is hear it. ~ Da Crockydiles of ZZE.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    9,324
    I just feel like I get more power from standing in the drops and better control.

    Off to work. Don't talk about me while I'm gone.

    V.
    Discipline is remembering what you want.


    TandemHearts.com

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    3,932
    Quote Originally Posted by li10up View Post
    This brings up something I've been wondering about. I use the speed from the downhills to help make it up the next rise but then I always get passed by someone about 2/3 of the way to the top. What is the best way to climb...stay in a hard gear as long as possible and then shift or shift sooner? Staying in a hard gear could wear your legs out sooner but down shifting too soon causes you to gain less ground per pedal stroke. So what is the best way?
    DO shift BEFORE it gets difficult.

    If you have a moderately recent road bike you have a pretty broad selection of gears just 1-2 teeth from each other. I shift down one or two gears at the time, as soon as there is any resistance. I keep my cadence relatively high through the hill. Of course I still might be passed in the end by strong cyclists, but the idea is not to loose momentum, and to avoid loosing speed quickly (which will definitely happen if you wait until it's hard to shift down).

    Good luck!!

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    2,506
    Veronica,

    Is that a mudflap right behind your front wheel?

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Bendemonium
    Posts
    9,673
    Since she's off to school and she didn't say we couldn't talk about her bike, I'll answer. Yes, it is. Made from half a water bottle.
    Frends know gud humors when dey is hear it. ~ Da Crockydiles of ZZE.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    2,506
    How nifty! It took me a sec to figure out her 'dangly bits' My little brain is working now and I know exactly how I would build one. Trouble is I don't have a bottle to sacrifice!

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Riding my Luna & Rivendell in the Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    8,411
    Quote Originally Posted by SadieKate View Post
    Ah, yes, but notice Pantani's saddle to bar drop compared to Veronica's. The drops on her bars are about where the tops of his are.
    True, and also he's in a race where every millisecond counts, so switching hands back and forth too many times may lose precious time.
    Veronica is on her lovely Rivendell Rambouillet if I'm not mistaken- a bike geometry/philosophy that is known for building the bars at about the same level as the seat. (just like MY blue sister-bike!)

    I have a sentimental fondness for standing up for hills when I can- it takes me right back to my chilhood biking days.
    Lisa
    My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
    My personal blog:My blog
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    WA, Australia
    Posts
    3,292
    Quote Originally Posted by Grog View Post
    DO shift BEFORE it gets difficult.

    If you have a moderately recent road bike you have a pretty broad selection of gears just 1-2 teeth from each other. I shift down one or two gears at the time, as soon as there is any resistance. I keep my cadence relatively high through the hill. Of course I still might be passed in the end by strong cyclists, but the idea is not to loose momentum, and to avoid loosing speed quickly (which will definitely happen if you wait until it's hard to shift down).

    Good luck!!
    I read an article lately that said pretty much what Grog is saying. It said change earlier rather than later and if you still have energy near the top change to a harder gear and power over the crest.
    LOL - cant tell you if that works because well hmm.....Im yet to have energy near the top of any big climb.
    The most effective way to do it, is to do it.
    Amelia Earhart

    2005 Trek 5000 road/Avocet 02 40W
    2006 Colnago C50 road/SSM Atola
    2005 SC Juliana SL mtb/WTB Laser V

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    WA State
    Posts
    4,364
    Quote Originally Posted by Kano View Post
    No standing on hoods or in drops -- only got "flat" bars, since this is one of those hybrid-y comfort beast bikes.
    It can be more difficult to stand and pedal with a comfort style bike. I have a Marin city type bike that I've gotten back out and been using for errand running recently (its the only bike I've got that I can put a rack on and carry things easily). I have noticed that standing to pedal not only delivers less power than doing the same on my road bike, it also feels a lot less stable and I don't even have a suspension fork. I don't think that it will be impossible for you to stand and pedal - but be careful that you don't jerk your handlebars hard.
    I'm guessing you bike is pretty heavy too. There is a point at which it becomes ridiculous and people will spend waaay to much money to lose an ounce or too, but when you are riding an upwards of 35 lb bike you certainly will notice the 10 - 15 lb difference that you would get out of using a road bike. You will also notice the difference in the tires - the hybrid's tires are likely much wider than a road bike's.
    Last edited by Eden; 10-06-2006 at 08:27 AM.
    "Sharing the road means getting along, not getting ahead" - 1994 Washington State Driver's Guide

    visit my flickr stream http://flic.kr/ps/MMu5N

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    467
    Karen....

    There are a number of factors contributing to positive hill climbing.

    Like a number of folks have already said, you want to be in a comfortable position. Also it can be useful to slide back ever so slightly in the seat and lean forward a bit - this just gives you a bit more leverage and ability to apply force to the pedals.

    Standing while climbing is easy to do, but not easy to do efficiently or right. You will make more power while standing but it will also jack up your heart rate and fatigue you very fast. Many recreational riders waste huge amounts of energy swaying the bike wildly side to side, etc. I do 90% of my climbing while seated.

    Pacing is an aspect you want to consider too. Many, many people will start going up hills as fast as they were going on the flats....so of course, shortly thereafter they rapidly tire. Pace yourself sensibly, start out at a pace that feels a little slow, so that near the end you can build up rather than struggle and gasp to the top.

    Another thing that is important is gearing. Most people will pedal at some rate > 70, let's say, in the flats. You want to have a low enough gear, on a hill, where you can keep your cadence higher. Higher cadence/low force is easier to maintain for a longer period, than a low cadence/high force combo.

    Finally, for all the mystifying or theories about climbing, once you have your basic technique/position/gearing right - going faster up hills is as simple as power to weight ratio. More power and/or less weight = better hill climbing.
    Last edited by Cassandra_Cain; 10-06-2006 at 08:26 AM. Reason: pacing

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    830
    Pacing is an aspect you want to consider too. Many, many people will start going up hills as fast as they were going on the flats....so of course, shortly thereafter they rapidly tire. Pace yourself sensibly, start out at a pace that feels a little slow, so that near the end you can build up rather than struggle and gasp to the top.

    Finally, for all the mystifying or theories about climbing, once you have your basic technique/position/gearing right - going faster up hills is as simple as power to weight ratio. More power and/or less weight = better hill climbing.
    I think you nailed it - for me at least. They guy that blows past me 2/3 of the way up seems to do this. I keep telling myself that if I could drop the extra 30 pounds I'm carrying around I'd be one h311 of a cyclist!
    As we must account for every idle word, so must we account for every idle silence." ~Benjamin Franklin

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Middle Earth
    Posts
    3,997
    *pipes up again*

    For what its worth, my partner and sons often climb on the drops in races.

    I am learning to climb on the drops, it lowers your centre of gravity and therefore alters the way you climb...

    Just like learning to stand while climbing, climbing on the drops takes determination and practice - but I def can see/feel the advantage
    Last edited by RoadRaven; 10-06-2006 at 09:53 AM.


    Courage does not always roar. Sometimes, it is the quiet voice at the end of the day saying,
    "I will try again tomorrow".


  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    2,506
    As I relatively new rider, I read a lot and, after a rough time earlier, taught myself to spin up hills. My issue now is I can't seem to get myself out of the saddle. This is partly a head thing, and partly getting accustomed to my newer bike. There are times when I should hoist myself up and 'finish off' a hill but just can't seem to do it.

    I'm so weird.

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •