Gimme about 2 hrs to finish shift, and 4 hrs to drive... um... and beer money... and I might. Deep breaths! Go to bed. Flossie will be okay.
Gimme about 2 hrs to finish shift, and 4 hrs to drive... um... and beer money... and I might. Deep breaths! Go to bed. Flossie will be okay.
I just changed my cables last week and it is sooooo easy. You just need to buy a good cable cutter, and a cable kit. I paid $10 for a set of durace cables and $30 for the cable cutter. You save $ and you can make them whatever length you want. My pet peave is that they bike shop guys never leave room for a handlebar bag! Wait for the new bars, and then if they need to be re-done, how about doing it yourself. If they left enough room at the ends, you may just need to re-cut the housing and re-thread them.
Don't forget crimps -- you'll need new crimps, too!
Crimps. Crimps. I hate crimps. Never use crimps. Just leave some extra wire past the anchor so you can trim off the ends later if you need to.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
And use these!
Colored cable crimps
Sorry about the formerly-bad link - still figuring out how to do linkies. It's fixed now.
Last edited by Pedal Wench; 10-28-2006 at 08:54 AM.
After my couple of pokes with frayed cable I couldn't imagine not crimping. But I'm a woose (how do you spell woose?).
I'm a crimper also. You could solder the ends but after being poked and scratched, and having expensive socks ripped, I always use end caps. You can tuck the cable ends away but somehow they always seem to find you anyway.
Hey, PWench, your link doesn't work.
Frends know gud humors when dey is hear it. ~ Da Crockydiles of ZZE.