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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556

    chain length

    The other thing to check about chain length is that when you go into the small-small combination, there is no chain slack. So when you are about to put the chain together, put it in that combination and by hand pull the chain to where the links you plan to rivet together are in line. You should be pulling the rear derailleur jockey wheels out of their slack position and fighting tension in the derailleur spring. If you're doing that and you have enough chain to go into the big-big combination, the chain length is generally OK. Though some derailleurs will work better within some range of jockey wheel angles.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    2,024
    Wow, you guys are great. Looking at it this morning, I am pretty sure the chain is simply too short, cuz if I hold it as if there were a few more links the rubbing stops. Also, my husband made it one link shorter than before, but since the casette is larger it probably should have been 1 link longer so it is actually now 2 links short. I will fix it after work tonite, but I am wondering if part of my problem with the chain tool I have is that I bought one that is mobile for traveling, but perhaps harder to use. Deb, can you please recommend a really good chain tool and I'll stop by my LBS and pick it up on my home from work tonite. I know in the short term I am spending more on tools than service, but in the long term its worth. I LOVE being able to keep our bikes running well.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    LA County
    Posts
    77
    As mentioned, check chain length and adjust L limit screw. Ideally your chain should be just long enough to work with a big ring/big cog cross chain combo with the rear derailleur stretched somewhat.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Yes, the small chain tools are murder on your hands. They can do the job if your pain threshhold is high enough, but a larger tool is much easier. I currently use the Spin Doctor? Universal Chain Tool (http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=4204) or something similar. It's not real large, but the edges are rounded and it's long where it needs to be for leverage. Costs about $9. If you want the real Cadillac, get the Park CT-3 Chain Tool for about $30.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    2,024
    I will buy the CT-3, it looks like a dream THANKS for the rec! I have found that good tools make this stuff soooo much easier. I am using dura ace 9 spd chains. Do you know if I need to use a new pin each time with that chain? What is the best method for determining optimal chain lenth. I was told to wrap it around the largest front and rear rings, without threading through the derailleur, and I also read the pulleys should be on top of each other when in the large front ring and middle region of the casette. What method do you ladies use to get it right the first time? I also messed up my bike, and need to take out at least a link since on my bike I am getting the pulleys to hit my chain when in the small rear big front rings (even though this is a forbidden gear I think the chain is too slack as it always drops easily).

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    I was hoping someone else would answer your last questions, because I don't really know more than what I've already said. Without being familiar with your particular derailleur and cog combinations, I don't think anyone can tell you how long to make the chain, except long enough for the big-big and not too long for the small-small. As roadfix said, not longer than necessary. You can probably get it right on the first try. As far as whether you need new pins for a DuraAce 9-speed chain, ask at your LBS. I see that loosescrews.com sells DuraAce-Ultegra 9-speed chain pins in bags of 5, so maybe you do need a new one each time.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    NSW, Australia
    Posts
    51
    Yes, you do need a new pin each time you break the chain - far better to get a removable link (which makes breaking the chain a breeze), there are a few different brands out on the market.

    We used one of the online calculators to work out chain length - try this one:
    http://www.machinehead-software.co.u...alculator.html

    Or, the other way to do it is to feed the chain around the two largest cogs (including through the derailleur) and then pull the chain tight so the derailleur arm is almost all the way up.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    LA County
    Posts
    77
    Quote Originally Posted by matagi
    Or, the other way to do it is to feed the chain around the two largest cogs (including through the derailleur) and then pull the chain tight so the derailleur arm is almost all the way up.
    That is the method I use but I add an additional link.

 

 

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