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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by SadieKate
    Adding "if you stand on the same side of the bike as the pedal . . . "
    Doesn't matter where you're standing if you always turn towards the front of the bike (though that only applies to the upper half of the wrench stroke). Avoids the right-left perspective dichotomy.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Bendemonium
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    9,673
    Quote Originally Posted by DebW
    Doesn't matter where you're standing if you always turn towards the front of the bike (though that only applies to the upper half of the wrench stroke). Avoids the right-left perspective dichotomy.
    Good for you, Deb. Doesn't always work for me. Ask Bubba. I get all goofed up unless I just think "left or right." At least I don't build a spreadsheet to do it.
    Frends know gud humors when dey is hear it. ~ Da Crockydiles of ZZE.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Then there's the method I learned in physics class for doing cross-products of vectors. You point your thumb in the direction you want the screw to pull towards, and the way your fingers curl tells you which way to turn the screw. Use right hand for right hand threads, left hand for left hand threads. But since I have trouble picking out my right hand, this doesn't work well for me.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    3,932
    SadieKate is right.

    If you put on your pedals, then it's because you want to go on a bike ride, hence you want to go FORWARD. Screw towards the front wheel.

    If you put off your pedals, you're stopping, so you want to go towards your rear wheel when you screw it off.

    Another interesting note on pedals: I used to use a wrench and, well, I could never take them off. A bike mechanics I now adore has told me to put them on and off with an allen key. It works so easily, it's unbelievable. They don't need to be excessively tight either (just normally tight). It changed my life!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    I'm the only one allowed to whine
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    10,557
    Ah HAH! I just looked at my Frogs and finally saw the light! (thanks, y'all!)

    I'd been fretting that I don't have a pedal wrench, and what'll I do when I put frogs on the new bike, and how will I maintain my pedals, yadda yadda. (I'm a champion fretter! Gold medal worry-wart.)

    Now I see where the allen wrench will fit, I understand which direction to turn it, and I know I don't have to crank on the things and make 'em supertight.

    Whew! I really want to know how to do my own pedals, cuz the bike shop cross-threaded my flat pedals when they assembled my Kona. When i got Frogs they had to re-tap the cranks cuz it was such a mess.

    Thanks, guys!! You're awesome!!
    "If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by KnottedYet
    Whew! I really want to know how to do my own pedals, cuz the bike shop cross-threaded my flat pedals when they assembled my Kona. When i got Frogs they had to re-tap the cranks cuz it was such a mess.
    Ewww, cross-threading. I once cross-threaded a Campy Record crankset. That would have been an expensive mistake if a tap hadn't cleaned it up. Campy cranksets came with atrocious threading in the 70s. We learned to always tap them before even attempting to install a pedal for the first time. I knew a guy who crashed when his pedal pulled out of his Campy crankset.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    I'm the only one allowed to whine
    Posts
    10,557
    Deb - what kind of grease? Is there one brand/type of grease that you could recommend I buy, that I could use for all grease needs?

    (I only have a bottle of liquid T9. No grease. Speedplay sells a squirter thingy with grease for the Frogs. I suppose that would be a seperate grease issue, but I need a general grease.)

    Thanks, oh mighty Bike Guru!
    "If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    3,932
    Grease indeed. Ask your LBS people. I have funny red stuff that comes in a toothpaste-like tube.

    Another tip:
    My pedals would sort of 'dig' into the crank. The adorable mechanics (same guy) also gave me a little washer to put there. No more digging, easier to take off the pedals.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by KnottedYet
    Deb - what kind of grease? Is there one brand/type of grease that you could recommend I buy, that I could use for all grease needs?
    I recommend Pedro's Syn Grease for bearings. You can use it for everything if you want, but el cheapo grease (like white lithium from the auto parts store) is fine for threads and cables. I just wish you could get Pedro's in a tub instead of only tubes. You can dip fingers into a tub - takes 2 hands to get grease out of a tube. Though it's much harder to contaminate a tube. We once got metal filings in a 5 lb tub of Campy grease in the shop.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    2,609
    "Foward On, and Back off"

    Wrench goes forward to put the pedals ON, wrench goes to the back of the bike to take them OFF.

    Easy, breezy!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Sunny California
    Posts
    1,107
    Quote Originally Posted by SadieKate
    At least I don't build a spreadsheet to do it.
    Was that a dig at your favorite problem child? Don't you roll your eyes at me!!!








































































    Bork Bork, Hork Hork!!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Bendemonium
    Posts
    9,673
    =====> AG

    Don't forget I make my fair share of spreadsheets.

    OK, I know why the "toward the back of the bike" doesn't work for me. I will place the pedal wrench under the chain stay or a bottom tube at times and then squeeze the chain stay and pedal wrench together to get more torque. Intuitively, this is toward the front of the bike.

    I use an allen wrench also but I hate short lever arms!!!!! Unfortunately, Keos only work with allen wrenches and if a he-man type has put my pedals on for some reason, I can't get them off.
    Frends know gud humors when dey is hear it. ~ Da Crockydiles of ZZE.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    I find that the best leverage for removing stubborn pedals is to straddle the rear wheel, put your shoulder on the saddle, have the pedal to be removed in the forward position, align the pedal wrench with the crank arms (within 20 degrees if possible), and hold the opposite pedal for leverage. A rag in the wrench hand can let you apply more leverage without undue pain. A nice long pedal wrench is essential (not all pedals can take an allen). Don't forget to grease the threads when installing pedals so they will come off easier next time.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

 

 

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