Are Road bikes worth it and how much should I pay???

[BleeckerSt_Girl]

If you plan on riding on lots of gravel or dirt roads you might not want to have the very skinniest road bike tires- look into getting a road bike that will take slightly wider tires like 25 or 28's- you won't get so many flats on gravel or rough surfaces.
Skinniest non-knobby tires are definitely faster on smooth roads though.

[TM383]

Wow, I think I have learned more from reading all these replies then I have searching the web for the last few days! This stuff is hard to figure out when you are new.

I am so glad that I got a diverse set of reactions and opinions. I feel like I can better picture what I really want. I think that the bottom line is that I want to ride on the sidewalks and across the street, I am not sure if riding in the street is my thing. Ok, so I am terrified of getting hit by a car! So, I am thinking of looking into a hybrid. I dont think a road bike would be a great choice if I know that I will always be on sidewalks.

Secretly, I am hoping that I will be browsing a bike shop (sorry, LBS! LOL) and come across a killer deal on some amazing $2000.00 road bike that just happened to go on sale right as I walked by for $250.00!!!!

Ok, so I am dreaming!

Thanks again for all the info!!

[Kitsune06]

something I'd suggest is getting thinish (1.25-1.5") smooth tires/tubes and putting those on, and outfitting your mtb with bar ends. I only say this because if you're running on rough roads, or commuting, I'd think you'd be able to appreciate the extra tire width and shock to the bike... things you wouldn't have with a rigid roadie.

I would love to make the speed-demon leap to roadies, but I live down two rough gravel roads, and even my 1.5" tires tend to be squirrelly and weird on them... Not the place for a slick, light, graceful and delicate road-gazelle.

For now, my rough'nready little mtb will have to do, but honestly, I was completely comfortable aside from hand fatigue (those bar ends got a little hard on the hands after awhile... probably wouldn't have been so bad with better gloves) and butt fatigue (got a brooks saddle for that) after a 40 mile ride this summer.... and that was WITH fat, nubby tires.

Never underestimate the ability of proper components to improve your ride.

okay, too many typing errors, time to go home and to sleep!

Sweet bikey dreams!

[BleeckerSt_Girl]

So, I'm looking at the subject title of this thread again: "Are Road bikes worth it and how much should I pay???".
Seems to me the answer to the first part depends on whether you will be riding in conditions where a road bike would be an advantage. If you are just putting around town on sidewalks, it seems to me a road bike would not be actually needed. A road bike tends to make you ride in a bent down position, which is good for faster speed and for riding long distances. It might not be what you want for just riding around your neighborhood.

The answer to the second part (how much should I pay?) depends on how fancy a bike you want, what kind, or how many added features, etc. Your top priority should be to get a bike that is COMFORTABLE and FITS you properly and one that serves your specific riding needs. Think about what kind of riding you want to do. Don't buy a bike just because it's a good price. If getting a good price is your priority, then lots of people have gotten great bargains in all kinds of wonderful new and used bikes, but later found that the bike did not fit them very well, or didn't serve their specific needs. No bargain at all, if riding it is unpleasant.

If you do not plan to ride fast or ride for long distances on smooth roads, I don't see a need to get a road bike. If shorter trips and varied rough pavement conditions are part of your routes, consider a hybrid (with slightly sturdier tires that will smooth your ride) and a more upright sitting position (which can be comfier for short distances). I would suggest getting a mountain bike only if you plan to ride on rough trails and rocky off-road areas, or on steep rough hilly terrain.

I rode a borrowed hybrid for a month before I got my own (road) bike, and the hybrid was quite comfortable and well suited under many different conditions. Hybrids also might be generally a little cheaper to buy than a "road bike".

We have a hybrid that is great (a 10 year old Trek) which we have set up for doing errands around town- a nice basket in front, medium thickness tires (not skinnies, and not fat knobbies mtn bike tires either, but rather 700c x 28c), and albatross style handlebars which are VERY comfortable and rather upright. Yet this bike can go FAST if needed, and can handle all kinds of long rides and any kind of road conditions, paved or gravel. It's a GREAT all-around bike.

Just some thoughts on different kinds of bikes for different needs...

[RoadRaven]

OK TM... I know the ladies here are trying to helpful, but let me tell you how it is...

You need a mountain bike for your off-roading - absolutely...

You need a bike for commuting, depending on how much stuff you need to carry... something sturdy with gearing and pedals for traffic and maybe pannier bags or something on it.

You need a light fast bike for road-racing, with race wheels, slick tyes etc stripped to the essentials only - I don't even have a puncture kit on mine (cause if you have a go at racing, you'll probably develop a taste for it)

If you want to do enduro rides, then you need a lightweight but strong bike, perhaps with a "bento box" and a bigger seat bag to carry your bits.

If you do TTs or triathalons, you'll want a bike set up with aero bars, aerodynamic rims etc, made for speed...

And of course, a general training bike... the one that has all the emergency stuff attached, the workhorse...

So I am guessing you need about 6 bikes... maybe only 4, depending on what type of riding you want to do...

Yours
Road (tongue-in-cheek) Raven

(BTW, I have 3 bikes at the moment - mountain, training, road race... my RR bike doubles as my TT bike, but am hoping to get a TT specific bike early next year)

[CR400]

Yes they are. It will be way easier to get the mileage you need for a tri and faster. I actually didn't even know you could use something other than a road specific bike anyway. The bottem end of the racing range is about $800, like a Trek 1000 of a fuji newest. These are technically considered entry-level but they'll get the job done, you actually matter more then the components on the bike in the results you get. I have told many people that take a good or pro rider and they can beat most people on top of the line bikes even on entry-level parts.

The high end bikes are from about 5 or 6k and up. Most bikes seem to fall between 1,200 and 3,800.

[RoadRaven]

These are technically considered entry-level but they'll get the job done, you actually matter more then the components on the bike in the results you get. I have told many people that take a good or pro rider and they can beat most people on top of the line bikes even on entry-level parts.

I agree, CR - We have an A grader (thats the top level cyclists in our graded club - graded on ability not age) who came about third or fourth overall in an individual TT on his mountain bike with slicks on... no aero bars or anything (he was in between bikes having just come back from overseas). A good example of how the equipment can make a difference, but its not that huge if you have real talent.

I would always advocate getting a bike specific to your riding, but don't stress if you don't have all the bells and whistles... as Lance wrote...

"Its not about the bike"


PS... I still never-the-less think we all need about 6 bikes...