Must have shaken you to have spelt it like that!
Seriously,
I'm no expert but I agree with that Knee thing Snappy said
Must have shaken you to have spelt it like that!
Seriously,
I'm no expert but I agree with that Knee thing Snappy said
All you need is love...la-dee-da-dee-da...all you need is love!
I've read that speed wobble can be cause by the fork. Apparently some carbon forks are prone to it, but not the most expensive ones. Gripping the top tube is good advise, or find the speed at which wobble begins and stay under it. I've never experienced it so can't say more - I ride a steel frame/fork and have never been over 61 km/hr.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
I have a carbon fork on my Dulce and have had her up to 43.5 mph/69.6 kph, but haven't had a shimmy. I do loosely grip the bars (was in the drops for the 43.5 mph) and tuck my knees into the tube, though. That's an interesting situation, runawaymum. Could it have even been the road surface you were on? Stupid question, I know, but I know on chip seal, I feel as if the front wheel wants to vibrate right out from under me!
Four wheels move the body, two wheels move the soul.
2010 Kelson custom/Brooks B17 Imperial
2009 Masi/Terry Damselfly
2004 Specialized Dulce Elite/Terry Damselfly
2003 Gary Fisher Tassajara/unknown saddle
1987 Bridgestone 100/Terry Liberator X
My bike doesn't do this, luckily, but I've read that to make it stop, you just need to touch the top tube with one knee. Maybe someone who has this problem can comment. I'm always thinking about it as I approach higher speeds, just in case. (But it hasn't happened up to 49 mph- and I doubt I will be going much faster than that!!!)
When I apply the brakes, both for road and MTB, I use three fingers on the rear lever and two on the front, and apply equal pressure, but I don't jam on the brakes, I start very gently and increase pressure as needed and as I see how my bike responds. On the road, you can lightly feather the brakes, or, if going fast, where you don't want to ever let off completely, you can apply more pressure, then less. I, for some reason, am afraid of overheating my brakes/wheels/tires, and I don't know if this is a logical fear or not, but I try to give them a break intermittantly, not hold a steady pressure the whole way down.
Also, I try to plan ahead, and slow down _before_ a curve, so I can then just glide through it without having to brake as much.
The more you descend like this, the more comfortable it will get for you- especially if you can follow other riders through- but do your own thing at the speed _you_ are comfortable with.
Nanci
PS, I have a stock/came with the bike carbon fork.
***********
"...I'm like the cycling version of the guy in Flowers for Algernon." Mike Magnuson
I have experienced speed wobbles. The shimmy usually starts if I turn the wheel, or when I brake. The bike mechanic said some of it was because my brake was loose and not toed in right. I haven't experienced the shimmy since he adjusted the brake. I hope you can figure out the problem. A terrible frightful experience!
I hit 42 mph the other day on Candisc in N. Dakota. I didn't notice any wobble and I was in my drops. In fact, I didn't realize I was going that speed until I checked the bike computer after the ride.
I also feather both brakes on downhills. That's the way I learned and it feels safer.
Ok I've taken my bike into LBS for a service it probably needed one anyway and from now on I'm using the back brakes first!! Thanks for your advice everyone : ) I'll go find a small hill to practise on.