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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Southeast MI/Northern IN
    Posts
    143
    Check the Park Tool Site > Cassette and Freewheel Removal
    Susan

    Try not. Do or do not... there is no try.
    Yoda

    2004 Airborne WASP (road)/Selle An-Atomica
    2010 Bike Friday New World Tourist (commuter)/Selle An-Atomica
    2010 Bike Friday Pocket Rocket Pro/Selle An-Atomica

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Then there was the cassette that Newfsmith had which someone had tightened too tight. It took a bench vise, a lockring tool, a chainwhip, and a 24 inch piece of pipe to get it off. For a lockring tool, the kind with the center post are nice because sometimes your quick release skewer isn't long enough to hold the tool onto the wheel. Also note that putting the chainwhip on a larger cog gives you more leverage.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    2,024
    Thanks for all the great advice guys! I think I can do this. I am off to buy some new tools. Regarding how frequently to change the chain. Do you change it every 1500-2000 miles regardless of stretch, or do you measure it with one of those stretch rulers, and change it when it enters the high end of the acceptable range? I had forgotton that I used to swap wheels all the time on my old bike between trainer and road, although the casette sizes were identical. Swapping wheels seems like a great way to rapidly modify gearing depending on the planned ride terrain.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    Quote Originally Posted by Triskeliongirl
    Regarding how frequently to change the chain. Do you change it every 1500-2000 miles regardless of stretch, or do you measure it with one of those stretch rulers, and change it when it enters the high end of the acceptable range?
    That's really a personal decision. Some people will use a chain until it starts to skip over the cassette cogs, but you are more likely to need to replace cogs also that way. If you plan to swap these two wheels, better to be more conservative and change the chain early.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    WA State
    Posts
    4,364
    Quote Originally Posted by Triskeliongirl
    Thanks for all the great advice guys! I think I can do this. I am off to buy some new tools. Regarding how frequently to change the chain. Do you change it every 1500-2000 miles regardless of stretch, or do you measure it with one of those stretch rulers, and change it when it enters the high end of the acceptable range? I had forgotton that I used to swap wheels all the time on my old bike between trainer and road, although the casette sizes were identical. Swapping wheels seems like a great way to rapidly modify gearing depending on the planned ride terrain.
    It's not so bad for most of us gals - being smaller and lighter than the guys, but my husband destroyed a cog set by waiting until the chain stretch tool told him it was time to change the chain. He's started changing his chain on a strictly time based schedule, figuring its cheaper to change the chain out more than he needs to than to have to buy new rear clusters...
    "Sharing the road means getting along, not getting ahead" - 1994 Washington State Driver's Guide

    visit my flickr stream http://flic.kr/ps/MMu5N

 

 

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