You want it to be tight enough that it requires some effort to lock and unlock the quick release. You don't want it so tight you pop a vein, but you don't want it to be easy either.
V.
You want it to be tight enough that it requires some effort to lock and unlock the quick release. You don't want it so tight you pop a vein, but you don't want it to be easy either.
V.
As a mechanic I was taught to put them on VERY tight - you don't want a customer coming back claiming that their wheel fell off. So expect mechanics to be that way. They are covering their own butt, and it's overkill. Follow V's advise and you'll be fine. If you close the QR lever so it's parallel and somewhat offset from the fork blade or dropout, you can squeeze against that and tighten easier.
Oil is good, grease is better.
2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72
I was taught that it was tight enough when the lever leaves an imprint on your hand.
Just concurring with Veronica and Deb...
Courage does not always roar. Sometimes, it is the quiet voice at the end of the day saying,
"I will try again tomorrow".
Thanks guys, I'll work on it!
I have read makbike's info in a few books and assumed that was the way to go.Originally Posted by makbike
I guess the thing to remember is that you need to be able to get the wheel off yourself in case you are stuck out in the sticks on your own with a flat.
If superman did the wheel up this might cause delays and Im guessing (at least for me) a few choice words to escape as well.![]()
The most effective way to do it, is to do it.
Amelia Earhart
2005 Trek 5000 road/Avocet 02 40W
2006 Colnago C50 road/SSM Atola
2005 SC Juliana SL mtb/WTB Laser V
I 2nd Makbike