Enamel painting is pretty easy but it comes down to preparation, preparation, preparation, and, oh! yeah! preparation. As far as dismantling the bike, that is for someone else to instruct on...

The below is all about how to get a mirror finish, which may be more than you're looking for, but I assure you, pretty much anyone is capable of doing it with enough care.
Bear in mind, my experience with this is mostly based on painting a few motorcycle tanks, saddlebags, a bike, and some car parts, but as long as you're careful and attentive to detail, your results should be good for a minimal price. If you're worried about frame integrity, feel free to strip it down, but if you think it's going to be alright structurally, I'd just sand it coarsely at 200-300 grit paper until it's a uniform 'grey'.

Your 'paint booth' can be as simple as a refrigerator box in the garage or a proper paint booth rented from a local body shop. That's up to you. My painting was done with a respirator on my apartment balcony with the tank hung by a chain in front of a large box. YMMV. For acrylic enamel, you will want it to be less than 65% humidity and preferably over 70*F. Still days are favored because there will be less chance of poo blowing into your wet paint (though the thin coats you will be using dry very quickly).

Use a tack cloth and wipe it down very with an automotive prep clean spray (smells like lighter fluid) this should dissolve any waxes, hand oils, etc. From here on out, it's rubber gloves if you want to touch it. Hit it with a primer, either a building primer that will fill in minor nicks/chips or a plain primer.
If you REALLY want to be anal about a correct mirror finish, after a few coats of primer do a light dusty spray of a black or something that really contrasts with your primer. Wetsand with 600, 800, 1000, 1600, then 2000 grit sandpaper, with a drop or two of soap in your water basin to facilitate removal of debris. The contrasting dust spray will show you, after your wetsanding, where the low spots are, and from there you can use more filler or a 2nd coat if you need.

Once you're SURE you have a perfectly smooth finish, you can start with your enamel. I used black automotive acrylic from Napa. Thin and easy does it, because drips are a PAIN to sand out. Too far from your frame and it'll look dusty. Too close and it'll orange peel. Practice and get a bit more paint than you expect to use.

True automotive acrylic enamel takes a month to fully cure, but regular Rustoleum and the like are fairly well cured after a couple days (or whatever the cans say)

If you're using automotive acrylic enamel, once you get the paint several sprays thick, alternating directions so you don't get stripes, you can start with wet sanding again (I know, it'll darn near break your heart) at 1000 this time, progress to 2000, then use an automotive rubbing compound, then a light cleaning/dehazing compound, and do a finish polish with Nufinish car wax. The result should be basically mirror like. You could clearcoat between the wet-sanding and rubbing compound if you like, but one of the beautiful things about an acrylic clearcoat is just about any scratches and dings buff out beautifully.


A lot of this, though, can be skipped if you're really just looking to put some color down, and if you're shooting matte, then just strip the bike like you would have anyway, rough 'n scuff, primer, spray, and reassemble.

Be sure to mask off ANYTHING that threads or anything, like boltholes, brake/shifter fittings, etc... you can remove it or mask it. When I painted my other bike she was just covered up in masking tape but I don't know that I should officially reccommend that. She was a little 'tankgirl' looking hoopty that I loved.

IF you go the 'other' route and get it powdercoated, make sure you disassemble it and mask off anything you don't want to get paint in. Powdercoat is a P-A-I-N to try to clean out of threads, but powdercoat is also extremely durable, and if you're going the mtb route, you may want to go this direction.

HTH!