Well thank goodness for Sheldon then.
I don't know why the forum software is only showing a thumbnail of the chart at 80 rpm ... but you can click on the link for the 90 rpm chart.
Shifting under load (i.e. avoiding same) isn't that complicated.
Catrin, has someone already explained that to you? The bike won't shift smoothly if you're putting a lot of pressure on the pedals, which makes the top of the chain super tight. Shifting under load can cause the chain to drop, it puts excess wear on the drivetrain, makes an awful noise while you're doing it (but not afterward), and can even cause immediate damage in extreme cases. When you shift, you need to be pedaling, but back off the pressure and soft-pedal. Ever shift a car without using the clutch (or with a worn-out second gear synchro
)? You know how you have to get your RPMs in the right place to sync, then take your foot off the gas while you throw the gearshift? Same idea.
It can be tough when you're climbing a steep hill and realize that you've waited too long to downshift. The hill was steeper or longer than you realized when you chose your gear, and now you're going 4 mph at 45 rpm and you have a lower gear that you really want to grab. I know I occasionally wind up in that situation.
When you shift, take as much load as you can off the pedals without falling over...
Still ... I can't see how shifting under load would pull the FD out of alignment unless the clamp was loose to begin with - especially on a steel frame where you don't have to be quite so ginger about the clamp torque. And I really don't think a FD could be so twisted that it would make noise all the time, but still allow you to shift into all three chainrings.
Last edited by OakLeaf; 08-09-2010 at 05:39 AM.
Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler