Quote Originally Posted by emily_in_nc
Hi Lisa,

Glad to hear the stem change worked for you; however, one reason for WSD bikes with shorter top tubes for a given seat tube size is so that standard (9-10cm) stems can be used. A 5 cm stem is quite short and can cause the front end of your bike to handle a bit squirrely. I used to ride a Terry Isis with a 6.5 cm stem, and that was one of my few complaints about it. When I changed to a bike with a 9 cm stem, I instantly felt more in control of the front end.

Here's a little article on determining the proper stem length for you that you (and others) might find interesting; I knew nothing about stems when I started riding and have learned a bit since then!
http://www.ehow.com/how_14135_determ...rect-stem.html
Good that you moved your saddle back - moving it all the way forward to better reach the handlebars isn't very good for your knees or climbing power. Ideally, a plumb bob dropped from the front of your kneecap of the leg in a 3 o'clock (front horizontal) position on the pedal should intersect the pedal spindle, or be behind it, not in front of it, which is how your initial set up might have been. This is sometimes called KOPS (knee over pedal spindle). If you have to move your saddle way forward to comfortably reach the bars, your top tube is probably too long....

Emily
Thanks Emily!
I read the article:
"Correct stem length for your bike by Trevor Williams
To get an approximate length for your stem, first ensure that your saddle height and position (front to back) are correct. Now place your elbow against the front of the saddle with your hand outstretched, the center of your handle bars should be approximately 3cm (two finger widths) beyond the finger-tips of your outstretched hand."

Happy to report that my new stem puts my bars at the above recommended 2 finger width position exactly.

I think you are right about that KOPS thing- and that is now corrected as well with my seat not all the way forward anymore. Now my saddle is right in the middle position on its rails, so I am more comfortable and I still have leeway for further fine tuning. When we chose the new stem we took into account that we would be wanting to slide the seat back a centimeter too. So overall difference after all was said and done is 3cm.
I don't think my top tube is too long- I feel SO comfortable and balanced now! Rivendell frames have different dimensions and more relaxed geometry than most typical road bikes (that's also why they are sized differently)- they make them specifically to be more comfortable for longer riding under diverse conditions- not just for racing.
As to the "squirrely" front steering issue.... what I have found is that whenever I have steering issues it is usually more that my bars wobble too widely back and forth as I avoid stones and holes, and this swinging side to side thing gives me a feeling of going out of control. I actually think the tighter steering arc will be very welcome to me.
Thanks for your ideas!