
Originally Posted by
quint41
Switching the crankset to a 105 triple (he believes the reason I have trouble shifting the front up to the big ring is NOT because of the levers, but because the factory bikes in my price range come with crap cranksets)
I'm confused about something. (DebW or Velogirl or one of the other bike mechanics will be along to enlighten me soon.)
I'm switching out a crankset and FD on my Waterford to a compact so I can get lower gear ranges for the way I ride on the hills we have around here. So I've been reading up on it, and have just enough knowlege to be dangerous but not enough to be helpful.
I've been under the impression that *shifting* issues are caused by the front derailleur and *gearing* issues are the crankset.
If you're having trouble *shifting*, wouldn't it be cheaper just to change out the FD to a 105 and leave the crankset alone? (If you're having trouble pedalling because of the gear ratios, that would indicate switching out the crankset?)
A new crankset is going to cost me around $200. A new FD is around $50. (Campy Veloce)
If you love the bike, can he just switch out the FD and sell you the bike for $665 instead of $865?
Then you'll be able to save some money so eventually you can switch out the rest of the drivetrain to a 105 3 chainring x 10 spd cassette if that's what you really want. Meanwhile you'll be riding!
(and I'm still confused about levers vs FD. Cuz going to the big ring is a function of the lever, while going to the smaller rings is a function of the spring in the FD. 105's have better springs so they drop down gears better, but how does that help the upshift? Does the 105 have a better backplate? And if he just fiddles with the H-limit screw on the FD the bike has now, couldn't he adjust the range of the current FD so it's easier to get the chain onto the big ring? That's FREE and saves you even more money for upgrades later!)
Last edited by KnottedYet; 09-04-2006 at 07:33 AM.
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