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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    137

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    I hear you all on the fitting. I've been calling around to (not so local...) bike shops this morning to ask about fittings, and I'm glad I called because the two closest to me don't offer them! Yikes! I'll hold off on the fitting until I decide which bike to bring home, though

    Quote Originally Posted by Muirenn View Post
    Just to get an idea, what is your budget for this bike?
    I'd like to put the cap on the bike itself at around $1,500 to allow wriggle room for added costs (like the fitting, a saddle, gear, and apparel) in an overall $3,000 budget. It might be a stingy sum in the cyclist world, but it suits me all right.
    Last edited by Swan; 10-19-2012 at 09:01 AM.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    532
    Another budget-friendly option to consider:
    http://www.rei.com/product/807245/no...fari-bike-2013

    I have an older version of this bike and love it as an all-around bike. This newer version can be upgraded with disc brakes.

    (Although I just realized the REI closest to you is in Georgia, which makes test riding a bit of a logistical challenge).

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    137
    Quote Originally Posted by Muirenn View Post
    That's a generous budget. You should be able to get something nice.
    Ah, well, I like to buy for keeps. I'll be putting the bike to a lot of use and hope it'll last a long time, but you often only get what you pay for!

    Quote Originally Posted by BikeDutchess
    ...the REI closest to you is in Georgia...
    That is a bit of a problem... Maybe the LBS will have one in stock that I can pedal around on. I'll add it to the list of bikes to consider. Thanks!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    West MI
    Posts
    4,259
    Quote Originally Posted by Swan View Post
    Ah, well, I like to buy for keeps. I'll be putting the bike to a lot of use and hope it'll last a long time, but you often only get what you pay for!
    I think this is truer for bikes than for a lot of things. I mean, with cars you can spend $20k or you can spend $40k. A $40k is rarely really DOUBLE the car that a $20k car is--frequently you're paying for cache with a luxury brand, even though the cars may have nearly identical features. But with bikes...my CX bike was $1300 (IIRC). DH's originally retailed for $2600 (his new CX bike is literally the CX version of my road bike). His bike really is twice the bike. Mine is aluminum with low end components. His is carbon with higher-end components.

    My mountain bike originally retailed for $700. I borrowed a friend's similar bike that retailed for closer to $2k new. OMG, what a difference. That thing practically pedals itself up hills, meanwhile my current mountain bike feels like it has a full keg of beer tied to the back (I wish it did, that way I could have some refreshments after those hard climbs!).
    Kirsten
    run/bike log
    zoomylicious


    '11 Cannondale SuperSix 4 Rival
    '12 Salsa Mukluk 3
    '14 Seven Mudhoney S Ti/disc/Di2

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    137
    You can eventually swap out components as you need, though, right? Weight doesn't bother me too much since I'm not going for racing speed (right now I average about 5mph, but any faster than 10mph is scary to me) and I view the added weight as an added workout... But the important parts like saddles, gears and brakes can be fitted in later if I'm not wrong? As long as a bike is very durable, long-lasting and can handle the type of rides I'll throw at it, that's all I could ever want.
    Last edited by Swan; 10-19-2012 at 01:25 PM.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    248
    Quote Originally Posted by Swan View Post
    I hear you all on the fitting. I've been calling around to (not so local...) bike shops this morning to ask about fittings, and I'm glad I called because the two closest to me don't offer them! Yikes! I'll hold off on the fitting until I decide which bike to bring home, though
    Some fitters will fit you to specific measurements ahead of time, giving you suggestions on which bikes will fit you best, and then you take those measurements into the LBS. Ideally, this is someone who is not affiliated with a bike shop, so you're just paying for the service, and the fitter doesn't also get a commission from what they're trying to sell you. Usually, included in the cost is a return visit once you have bought the bike to make all the right adjustments.

    Might be something to think about!
    "Susie" - 2012 Specialized Ruby Apex, not pink/Selle SMP Lite 209

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    West MI
    Posts
    4,259
    Quote Originally Posted by Swan View Post
    You can eventually swap out components as you need, though, right? Weight doesn't bother me too much since I'm not going for racing speed (right now I average about 5mph, but any faster than 10mph is scary to me) and I view the added weight as an added workout... But the important parts like saddles, gears and brakes can be fitted in later if I'm not wrong? As long as a bike is very durable, long-lasting and can handle the type of rides I'll throw at it, that's all I could ever want.
    Yup. This is one reason I'm going with the Salsa El Mariachi 3 for my soon-to-arrive (I hope!) mountain bike, instead of the 2. The 2 costs about $500 more, IIRC. Only difference is the components. The frames are the same. So in time I can always upgrade as things wear out and the budget allows. Sometimes frames will differ, as is the case with lower-end carbon bike models and higher-end ones. Sometimes companies that use steel will use different grades. But a lot of times the only difference between, say, a $1000 aluminum bike and a $1500 one are the components. In the long run it's usually cheaper to buy the higher-equipped bike, but if money is an object up-front it's still smart to go with the bike that one can afford and replace things gradually. Kinda like buying a smaller home and building additions as one's ability to pay for these things improves (heh, or be like my hubby and I and live in a small old fixer-upper that never gets updated because we keep buying bikes. ).
    Kirsten
    run/bike log
    zoomylicious


    '11 Cannondale SuperSix 4 Rival
    '12 Salsa Mukluk 3
    '14 Seven Mudhoney S Ti/disc/Di2

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    137
    Gosh... thank you ALL for your bike recs! I've printed out a sheet for each bike and compared them all and even did my research on reviews and such. While I'm not 100% entirely sure that I'll go out right now and buy a bike (impulsive urges to make purchases of 1,000+ should be monitored closely, heh), I know I'm definitely leaning towards the Crosscheck more than any other at the moment. I may yet change my mind, but as I'm still relatively new to biking and don't intend to get into serious events beyond seriously having fun, I think it might just be for me

    I'll let you all know what I walk away from the LBS with when I finally break down and buy something!

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    West MI
    Posts
    4,259
    I fell in love with CX bikes after riding my friend's Crosscheck. Such a nice bike and can go anywhere. Rides like a Cadillac!
    Kirsten
    run/bike log
    zoomylicious


    '11 Cannondale SuperSix 4 Rival
    '12 Salsa Mukluk 3
    '14 Seven Mudhoney S Ti/disc/Di2

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    4,632
    I like the Crosscheck. I'm also considering buying a Charge Filter. It's also steel, and the model I'm considering has disc brakes. The geometry is also a bit more me-friendly than the Crosscheck, but your mileage may vary.
    At least I don't leave slime trails.
    http://wholecog.wordpress.com/

    2009 Giant Avail 3 |Specialized Jett 143

    2013 Charge Filter Apex| Specialized Jett 143
    1996(?) Giant Iguana 630|Specialized Riva


    Saving for the next one...

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Tucson, AZ
    Posts
    4,632
    Quote Originally Posted by Muirenn View Post
    Interesting. I did decide that if I get a surly cross, I should get a 50 vice the 52 I tested. What about the geometry did you like on the Charge?
    Hard to put into words, I guess, but it certainly felt better. Though it's hard to say, since the one I tried was an extra small, and it may be a bit too small (51.5 cm effective top tube--best road bike ETT for me is 52-53cm). In my size, though, the top tube on the Surly is a hair shorter. I'm right on the border, size-wise, though. I tried a Charge Juicer, which has the same top tube length (though it has a more traditional geometry) and it felt like it might have been a bit too long. I also like the somewhat sloped top tube on the Filter. It's more like my bike. I'm guessing I'll either be on the XS with a longer stem or the S with a shorter one.

    The biggest plus for me, though, was the disc brakes. Only problem is that this thing weighs a ton.
    Last edited by Owlie; 10-23-2012 at 06:28 PM.
    At least I don't leave slime trails.
    http://wholecog.wordpress.com/

    2009 Giant Avail 3 |Specialized Jett 143

    2013 Charge Filter Apex| Specialized Jett 143
    1996(?) Giant Iguana 630|Specialized Riva


    Saving for the next one...

  12. #27
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    oklahoma
    Posts
    270
    I think you should also consider a custom build on a Surly Karate Monkey which can be set up as a drop bar bike and built up like you would like. Another choice for handlebars might be Jones H bars.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    oklahoma
    Posts
    270
    Another possibility might be a Surly disc LHT. I just started riding with disc brakes and they do a great job.

 

 

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