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Thread: Brooks Saddles

  1. #451
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    the shorter saddle for women was so that ample skirts would not get caught on the saddle.
    why they are still selling that model is beyond me.
    Now as to you and the B17. I never got comfortable on it either - I went right back to my B67 (at the time). If it's hurting your perenial area (I think that's spelled wrong, BTW) the saddle is either not adjusted correctly or it's too small.
    I like Bikes - Mimi
    Watercolor Blog

    Davidson Custom Bike - Cavaletta
    Dahon 2009 Sport - Luna
    Old Raleigh Mixte - Mitzi

  2. #452
    Kitsune06 Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by sundial View Post
    I've thought that as well.
    I think I read on the Wallingford site that the 'S' is for Skirts, as women who ride in skirts might have a difficult time with the longer nose. It's marketed for women as we're more likely to ride in skirts BUT in theory, if a guy is going to ride wearing a utilikilt on a regular basis, then the saddle might be ideal for him as well.

    On a different-ish subject, I'm wondering with the sitbone measurements are (on average) for ladies 100% comfortable with their B-17. I'm at about 140 and I'm not sure if I'm a little bit on the side rails or what? My soft tissues are generally quite happy w/ the B17 unless I slip and do a little 'forward crush' but nobody's ever happy with those, so moot point.

  3. #453
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    So, I have a B17 Imperial on my roadie that I love. However, thinking of not keeping my roadie. I just have more fun on my Trek Pure Lowstep and it really works better as a no-brainter-fun-relaxed addition to my running. BUT - I remember that me and the stock Bontrager saddle didn't get along so well.

    Would a B17 work at all on the Pure? Or, should I just go for a B67 (or B68) or something?

    Just trying to get some ideas.
    Last edited by Kerry1976; 04-10-2011 at 02:08 PM.
    200x Electra Townie 24D/Brooks B67

  4. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kerry1976 View Post
    So, I have a B17 Imperial on my roadie that I love. However, thinking of not keeping my roadie. I just have more fun on my Trek Pure Lowstep and it really works better as a no-brainter-fun-relaxed addition to my running. BUT - I remember that me and the stock Bontrager saddle didn't get along so well.

    Would a B17 work at all on the Pure? Or, should I just go for a B67 (or B68) or something?

    Just trying to get some ideas.
    Try it. Just switch your B17 to the Pure and give it a try!
    "If Americans want to live the American Dream, they should go to Denmark." - Richard Wilkinson

  5. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by KnottedYet View Post
    Try it. Just switch your B17 to the Pure and give it a try!
    Thanks, plan to do it regardless, just didn't know if anyone on here had tried it yet.
    200x Electra Townie 24D/Brooks B67

  6. #456
    Kitsune06 Guest
    Figured this might be the thread to say it on- I've been wondering about my B17 and came to the conclusion that it just wasn't fitting right... I think I was in denial about my sitbones.

    For some reason I thought 'the' measurement was center to center, but then I found the formulas further down in this and other threads and went 'huh'.

    I'm pretty close to 170-175 measuring the outsides of my ischial tuberosities. So... I guess I'm in the big pelvis club, which makes it easy to have an hourglass figure and hard to find a saddle? I've already sold my B17. Moving on to either the B67, B68 or B68 imperial.

    Not really sure which yet, wondering on others' opinions. I'd had a selle-anatomica and really kind of hated it. It felt like my 'parts' were crammed in the hole rather than suspended over it due to the hammocky nature of the saddle. I see some have had similar experiences with the imperial cutout... I guess I'm wondering if that experience is more with those who don't wear padded cycling shorts (as I don't intend to unless we're going +10-20 mi). The 'cutout test' was a little inconclusive. It didn't hurt, per se but I wouldn't want to sit like that for hours, or moving. I was ok w/o the cutout on my B17 but always had a little friction. (Sorry for the TMI, but this is saddle talk).

    I know Wallingford has that 6mo return policy, but I guess I just really want to get it right the first time. Any advice?

  7. #457
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    I'm in the same boat. In the last few days I've rode 50mi on my new b17. I was hoping ride 2 would be better. Lowering the nose to be level definitely helped the perenial pain but the sitbone pain is still there. I have similar measurements to you as far as I can tell (i've sat on playdough so many times but get confused about the results LOL). I'm this close to going back to the saddle which has honestly never give me problems! But I'm also considering trying b68
    Alison - mama of 2 (8yo and 6yo)
    2009 Independent Fabrication steel Crown Jewel SE
    1995 trek 800 steel MTV

  8. #458
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    Warneral, i have to ask, why get a Brooks when you're happy with your saddle?
    there's an old tenet, "if it isn't broke, don't fix it" that applies here.
    If you have the money to burn, fine, I went down the same road as you (people told me I needed to replace my brooks with a "road bike saddle" and so i tried several before I went back to my beloved Brooks)
    and you just end up with extra saddles. At least with these, you will be able to sell them.
    I like Bikes - Mimi
    Watercolor Blog

    Davidson Custom Bike - Cavaletta
    Dahon 2009 Sport - Luna
    Old Raleigh Mixte - Mitzi

  9. #459
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    Riding my Luna & Rivendell in the Hudson Valley, NY
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    I think soft tissue pain or numbing on short rides is the kiss of death for any saddle.
    On the other hand (cheek?), sitbone pain with a new saddle, especially a hard Brooks, to me is good sign! First, it means your weight is being supported in the right area. Second, sitbone pain 'usually' fades and disappears over about a dozen rides. When I got my first Brooks, my sitbones were in excrutiating pain the first couple rides- I felt like I could hardly sit at all for several days. I was going to give it up, but my DH said that was normal and it would go away. What do you know, he was right! Over about 10 more rides it faded and then my saddle experience was bliss. Now my butt is always at least semi- broken in, so every Spring I only need about 3 or 4 'break in rides' to get over any sitbones soreness for the year.
    To me, sitbone pain after riding just means the saddle is fitting well and more time on it will make it perfect.
    Soft tissue pain and numbness will not fade away on a saddle, but will likely get worse.
    Lisa
    My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
    My personal blog:My blog
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

  10. #460
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    Okay. As mentioned elsewhere, I am having a problem finding a comfortable saddle for my road bike because my weight is more on the rami than on the ischial tuberosities. Every saddle I've tried has been wide enough to support my sit bones (~120 mm center to center, ~135-140mm outside to outside) but still leaves me with the feeling that the rami are bruised.

    I don't think my posture is all that aggressive -- I don't ride in the drops and my saddle is about the same height as the handlebars. But still, most of the weight is not on the ITs.

    So, will a Brooks solve this problem?

    Thanks very much for your input.

    - Gray 2010 carbon WSD road bike, Rivet Independence saddle
    - Red hardtail 26" aluminum mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle
    - Royal blue 2018 aluminum gravel bike, Rivet Pearl saddle

    Gone but not forgotten:
    - Silver 2003 aluminum road bike
    - Two awesome worn out Juliana saddles

  11. #461
    Kitsune06 Guest
    It could but it doesn't answer the question as to WHY you're putting your weight on your rami instead of on your ischial tuberosities. I guess an experiment would be to 'tuck tail', consciously tucking your pelvis and sitting on your ITs... seeing what that does to the rest of your posture. If your stem is too long/handlebars too far forward, you could be compensating by rocking your pelvis forward to reach. There should be a gentle kyphoid curve to your back when you're in proper position, and you should (theoretically, anyway) be using your core to keep yourself in that relaxed-elbows, kyphoid-curved, pelvis-tucked position.

    Brooks could encourage you to sit on your ITs if only because if you tipped the saddle up and it didn't have a cutout, and you tried to rest your weight forward, you'd be singing soprano in adult language.

    The up-on-rami seated position is generally for those who have absolutely no recourse because their handlebars are SO much lower than their saddle, like on this bike:


    I hope that helps.

  12. #462
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    The posture you describe is very uncomfortable for me.

    I keep my back flat and lean forward from my hips. This is more comfortable for my back, neck and shoulders.

    - Gray 2010 carbon WSD road bike, Rivet Independence saddle
    - Red hardtail 26" aluminum mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle
    - Royal blue 2018 aluminum gravel bike, Rivet Pearl saddle

    Gone but not forgotten:
    - Silver 2003 aluminum road bike
    - Two awesome worn out Juliana saddles

  13. #463
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    Location
    Madison WI
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    Mimi I'm just coming back to this post but you are totally right and I've been asking myself the same question LOL. I bought it for my b-day present b/c I drool over them when I see them on other bikes in the city. Also b/c so many people seem to love them and they last forever.

    I think that Lisa's post is encouraging. I probably would have the same sitbone pain after any saddle in the spring. These ARE my first 50mi of the year outdoors I think I'll give it a little more time. Seeing that I got it from wallbike, I thought it was worth a try.
    Alison - mama of 2 (8yo and 6yo)
    2009 Independent Fabrication steel Crown Jewel SE
    1995 trek 800 steel MTV

  14. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by Muirenn View Post
    Keeping your back flat and leaning forward from the hips will put you directly on your pubic rami.

    You need to shift your weight to your sits, and keep it there, and lift from your lower back and abdomen and curve forward from the waist. The Adamo saddle website says to do as you describe for extreme aero. But personally, I hate going onto my pubic rami, so I stay on my sits no matter what. It's important to lift from the core to do that. Since the Adamo requires you to stay on the sits, and puts no pressure on the rami, perhaps you might want to look into an Adamo? Though it still sounds like Brooks will be a good idea.

    There is a pilates position that could help. I'll try to find a description and post.

    Edit: this link looks good.
    http://www.easyvigour.net.nz/pilates...etchfwdbeg.htm

    If you look under 'purpose,' it says:

    Purposes:
    Stretches the spine vertebra by vertebra, and stretches the hamstrings
    Teaches how to sit tall on the sit bones (so you don't slump at your desk).

    If you look at the moving figure, it shows her going from straight spine, then bending at the waist while still lifting from lower back and abs and keeping that straight. I do this continually on the bike, and my back, sits, and pubic rami are all happy. And I had back surgery 10 years ago.

    Also, be sure to look at the 'modifications' section if you find this difficult of uncomfortable. They mention it's okay to go forward just 2 inches. You can also bend your knees much more than shown. It will still develope the core strength and position you need to stay on the sits.
    I got a new bike so that I would *not* have to do that. And my trainer recommends against it.

    Anyway it looks like a Brooks would not help me. Thanks.

    - Gray 2010 carbon WSD road bike, Rivet Independence saddle
    - Red hardtail 26" aluminum mountain bike, Bontrager Evoke WSD saddle
    - Royal blue 2018 aluminum gravel bike, Rivet Pearl saddle

    Gone but not forgotten:
    - Silver 2003 aluminum road bike
    - Two awesome worn out Juliana saddles

  15. #465
    Join Date
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    Riding my Luna & Rivendell in the Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    8,411
    OMG Kit that photo of that bike is too ludicrous! Looks incredibly uncomfortable, not to mention dorky! (hope I'm not insulting anyone) Looks like some should be riding a unicycle and pedaling it with their hands, standing on their head. lol!
    As others have described, tuck in your tummy, tip your tailbone down so that your weight shifts onto sitbones instead of pubic bone. Some riders get lazy and let their back sag like a swayback horse and then put all their weight on their hands to hold them up. Get your weight distributed more back on your butt and your feet, it will strengthen your core.
    Try to envision that you are 'walking' on your bike instead of rolling along like you are rolling dough with a rolling pin in your hands. That mental shift helps me when i catch myself getting lazy onto my hands.
    Lisa
    My mountain dulcimer network...FOTMD.com...and my mountain dulcimer blog
    My personal blog:My blog
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

 

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