Average Gal's First Time At Bat

**Kano** · 09-12-2009, 07:55 AM

Dropping the chain -- there's a gizmo for that now!

http://www.acecosportgroup.com/content/

I don't have one -- I'm not sure that my bike is built right, but one of these days, when it's in for some kind of service, I'm going to ask. I don't like when the chain goes...

Seattle hillies: a triple front chainring set will be nice to have. I use all three of my chainrings a lot, and it's not quite as hill in the area where I ride as Seattle. I figure maybe someday for this "compact" thing I read about here...

End of season clearances can be a great way to stretch your budget, and they're on -- if the bike fits, you may be able to get more bike for your buck by "sacrificing" color, or something relatively minor. While WSD is a good thing, a "men's" or "unisex" bike may help with this too -- don't dismiss them out of hand. Try some for feel!

The saddle -- give the one on the bike a shot, you MAY like it! I'm pretty sure that we all find that it takes a little while to be comfortable on even the best fitting saddle as we start riding, as all of it is new to our bodies and we have to get used to so much. MORE important to be sure to include in the initial investment budget is a HELMET -- which seems obvious, but I haven't seen it mentioned yet! These don't have to be expensive.

Other things to consider getting started:

Gloves that fit pretty snug (I have hand pain if they're "comfy" because the slip around) are important for our riding comfort and for just in case. I bought cheap bike shoes early on because of the nice stiff sole -- my feet hurt in "regular" shoes. At the time, I was NOT using the "fancy" pedals. The chamois in the shorts does make a difference in comfort, but I'm guessing that it will be a little while before you'll need the "good" ones, and those clearance racks will be a nice place to start that wardrobe. Like gloves, buy 'em snug, so they're not slipping around down there! (some of us are intimidated by "sausage leg" but at your height/weight, I can't see much possibility for that -- I've got a daughter about your size!)

Lights -- dark season is coming! Don't have to be real expensive, just bright. Something to carry a spare tube and tools in (I really am glad I changed to kevlar tires early on. changing tires isn't my idea of fun, and I got lots of practice the first few weeks!)

I'm finding myself going on and on, have a question I've come up with myself that I'll start a thread on, but oh CRAP! I have to get ready to go to work!!!!

Karen in Boise

**Biking Bella** · 09-13-2009, 01:21 PM

You're right, things like gloves, helmet (which is required by law here), etc are important and an investment at the time of purchase. The '09 sales are on and I have started looking around! I'll visit another shop tomorrow (Redmond Cycle) and see what they have at this point.

I'm also looking on craigslist and ironically I'm not finding too much in a 54cm. Then again, that size is really popular so it doesn't shock me. But, can anyone tell me about some of these components? Are they low end? Have you heard of them before? I'm still trying to learn the ropes so I'm sorry for all the questions!!!

Link to Bike

I also saw this one but I can get a Cannondale Synapses 6 (I think?) for $1300 at the local bike shop.

Also, I'm also seeing something on the Cannondale site that they have a "Cyclocross" bike. It seems it's for people that also tackle mud on their rides. By glancing at the bike picture, it looks the same as a road bike, but with mountain bike-type tires. Is that correct? And if so, can that be done with a road bike (or even using half and half tires), or is that a "no-no". I'm just wondering for education-sake, so no "just buy a mountain bike" comments please. haha.

Thanks!!!!

**redrhodie** · 09-13-2009, 01:37 PM

I missed the part about why you think you need a 54cm?

**Biking Bella** · 09-13-2009, 02:37 PM

Originally Posted by redrhodie

I missed the part about why you think you need a 54cm?

Because I went to the bike shop and they "estimated" that's what I would need...??? I will go in this week and sit on the "bike simulator" that they have. You dial in a bikemake an model and it will change the gearing, feel, etc and you bike on that to try it out before you go out on the road with it.

I'm 5ft 6in with longer legs, so they said a 54cm bike would probably be my fit. It's just a guess while I'm doing research. Is there something I'm missing?

**redrhodie** · 09-13-2009, 03:50 PM

You're kind of missing some info. All bikes are not built with the same geometry, so you will find some 54cms will be too big, and some may be too small. It's kind of like saying you're a size 4 in jeans, and expecting Gap jeans will fit the same as Calvin Kleins.

I think 54cm sounds big, because I'm 5'5", and I ride a 50cm and a 48cm, both from the same frame maker, but it's not out of the realm of possiblity that a lot of frames in that size will fit you. Also, if you're thinking of a cross frame, the geometry of those run extra big to make room for the mud.

We have some amazing bike builders on this forum who may chime in, and a lot of experienced fitters, which I am not. I just know for sure you may end up with a completely ill fitting bike if you just go by that size. I know that complicates things, but I hope it helps in the long run!

**Biking Bella** · 09-13-2009, 04:14 PM

Wow, red. I did NOT know that! Thanks SO much for type of information! It was great that you compared it to the sizing of jeans/pants - good analogy! I thought it was a "if you are between this height and that height, then you're into this bike measurement"...wow.

Looks like I'll have to get on that bike simulator at the bike shop soon and see what they come up with. I'd like to hear anything from those experts on here though!

Keep the good stuff coming!

Next question - handle bars....flat versus drop? Pros/cons?

**Cataboo** · 09-13-2009, 04:16 PM

If you're 5'6 with longer legs - estimating comparing you to a friend of mine who's 5'6 with a 33 inch inseam.. I think a 54 would be too big... my friend rides a 52-53... the 53 cms a tad big on him, the 52 cm's just right, a 50 cm is manageable....

Use bikepedia to figure out components... that first bike (the trek), really didn't say what model it was or year. The scattante had campy components which looked pretty good... but you'd either have to buy wheels or ride with his dented ones...

I'm 5'1 and ride a 48 cm frame usually, I can just barely clear a 50 cm frame and ride it, but 48's about perfect.

**Cataboo** · 09-13-2009, 04:30 PM

Btw, cyclocross bikes have a higher bottom bracket, so they have more clearance for off road... (typically). They have burlier wheels, etc. to deal with it as well. Typically on a cyclocross bike you want more standover height than you want on a road bike, just because of how you use it... So you'd want to get a smaller frame for a cyclocross bike. They're a bit more versatile, but they won't be as fast on road as a road bike (unless you swap the tires), and they don't have suspensions like mountain bikes...

You can put thicker tires on road bikes, depending on the road bike... it depends on how much clearance the bike has around the fork and rear triangle to fit a thicker tire... some of them can take more, most can take a 700x23 instead of a 700x25....But many of them can't do much thicker than that.

**Owlie** · 09-13-2009, 04:59 PM

I'm about your height, and my bike's a 50cm (I think that's Giant's definition of "medium"...) BF's bike is a 53-4 cm, I think, and I can barely ride it.

**Biking Bella** · 09-13-2009, 05:33 PM

*nods* Good to know ladies. I'll start looking into 50cm more and get a definite number (or at least close to it) when I hit up the bike store!

Thanks for the clarification on the cross bikes and the tires that I could use on a road bike. I'll jot that down for later use.

To answer a question about the Trek, here is the response I got from the owner: It is a 2008 aluminum frame with Tiagra shifters and a 105 deraileur. The seat stays are the only carbon parts on a trek 2.1c bike. Most other parts on the bike including rims and seat post are Bontrager.

I noted that there is a used cycle shop in downtown Seattle. Maybe once I get a measurement from my local bike shop, I can then call down and get a laundry list of what they have...?

**Cataboo** · 09-13-2009, 05:47 PM

I think $1000 for a used bike with tiagra shifters is too much. at that price point for used, you want 105 level components or ultegra. Preferably ultegra.

Used bike wise,

**Biking Bella** · 09-13-2009, 06:35 PM

Originally Posted by Catriona

I think $1000 for a used bike with tiagra shifters is too much. at that price point for used, you want 105 level components or ultegra. Preferably ultegra.

Used bike wise,

Yep! I totally agree with you there! When I got the stats back from the owner, I couldn't understand why I would pay $1300 for a new '09 C'Dale Synapse 5 compared to that bike for $1000. I think I'll leave that one go.

Thanks for the look on that!

Anyone on flatbar versus drop with pros and cons?

**redrhodie** · 09-14-2009, 05:56 AM

Originally Posted by Biking Bella

Anyone on flatbar versus drop with pros and cons?

I can't speak to the pros of flat bars, since I have wrist issues that were aggravated by my old flat bar mtb (but lots of people love flat bars), but I love me some drops.

Drop bars give a lot of options for hand placement, which means you can easily change your body position for different conditions (like on the top of the hoods for a more relaxed position for better breathing and while climbing, or in the drops for improved aerodynamics while descending or riding into the wind). Just being able to move my hands has really helped my wrist issues from flaring up.

**indigoiis** · 09-14-2009, 06:19 AM

Hi Bella,
You're getting lots of good advice here.
You CAN get a bike on Craigslist - that's how I got my first road bike - but if you can, take it for a good long ride first. A good seller will let you ride the bike for at least a half hour. Bring a tool to raise or lower the seat as comfortable (or if the bike has a quick release seatpost, use that.) The saddle should be set so that when your foot is in the down pedal at six o'clock, there is a slight bend to the knee while seated on the saddle. If you can wear bike shorts to your test ride, do.

Also, like RR said, size is different on different models and frames. I ride a 49cm cross style tourer that is a little small for me but is very aggressive and fun to ride, while my road bike is a 54. I am 5'6 with very short legs and a long torso, so women's specific design (even though I have it on my road bike) is not the best geometry for me.

The only way you'll know is to take the bike out and ride it. The bike shop's horse isn't going to tell you if you'll love the ride.

Enjoy the shopping!

**aicabsolut** · 09-14-2009, 03:48 PM

If you're looking at WSD bikes, a 54cm may be the right size. FYI, I'm 5'7" and ride a 54cm unisex frame. Anyway, some manufacturers basically make their WSD bikes a size down from marked compared to the unisex line, though there is some variation, like seat tubes may be on the longer side. So, if I got the women's version of my bike (a Specialized), I would get a 56cm.

I would guess that 50cm is fairly small for you, and it might mean you'd have some pretty aggressive saddle to bar drop (i.e., you'd need a lot of seatpost, and the head tube will be short). A 54cm could be too big. 52cm may be right on. This will all vary by manufacturer.

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