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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Good things gro-oh-ow in Ontario!
    Posts
    382

    Cantilever brakes and removing rear wheel

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    I've really been needing to learn to change a tire and since I need to take my knobby tire off in the back and replace it with a slick tire so I can use the trainer, the time is now!

    I'm having a huge problem with my brakes, though. I have Avid Shorty 4 cantilevers and these babies do not want to be released. I've tried to squeeze them together to get enough slack so I can get the one cable released but it's not enough. I even had my Dad try and he couldn't do it. Is this normally this difficult? Is there some way I can get more slack? I'm afraid to mess something up and end up taking it to the shop.

    I did get the tire changed, although I'm pretty sure I didn't do a great job -- I don't think the tire is seated right and it's kinda bulgy. I ended up deflating the tire so I could just get it out, but I should be able to release the brakes. On a positive note, I felt kind of awesome after getting the tire off, changed, and back on. Even if it didn't turn out right and needs to be done again.
    "Live, more than your neighbors. Unleash yourself upon the world and go places. Go now! Giggle. Know. Laugh. And bark the the moon like the wild dog that you are!" - Jon Blais

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    It could be that your brake is set closer to the rim than necessary, and thus the trouble releasing the cable. If it seems like the brake could be set looser without making the brake lever bottom out on the handlebar, ask your LBS to loosen the brake for you.
    Oil is good, grease is better.

    2007 Peter Mooney w/S&S couplers/Terry Butterfly
    1993 Bridgestone MB-3/Avocet O2 Air 40W
    1980 Columbus Frame with 1970 Campy parts
    1954 Raleigh 3-speed/Brooks B72

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    959

    CAntilever brakes

    Yes, these brakes are hard to set... difficult to set where you have the "feel" that you like and the ability to release them. With that said, one trick you can use is release the cable just a bit, and then use the barrel adjuster to take up the slack. Obviously, you would need to reverse this once you take the wheel off.

    I would definitely take it to your LBS and have them take a look at it first, and then ask them to show you the above trick and a couple of others that are out there. It will make your life much easier!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Md suburbs of Wash. DC
    Posts
    2,131
    Quote Originally Posted by ridebikeme View Post
    With that said, one trick you can use is release the cable just a bit, and then use the barrel adjuster to take up the slack. Obviously, you would need to reverse this once you take the wheel off.
    Some bikes with canti's apparently don't have barrel adjusters for the rear brake. I had one installed because I had a fit one day trying to adjust my brakes by loosening the cable.
    "How about if we all just try to follow these very simple rules of the road? Drive like the person ahead on the bike is your son/daughter. Ride like the cars are ambulances carrying your loved ones to the emergency room. This should cover everything, unless you are a complete sociopath."
    David Desautels, in a letter to velonews.com

    Random babblings and some stuff to look at.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    959

    CAntilever brakes

    I'm sure that you are right that there are probably some bikes that don't have barrel adjusters. Although almost every bike has them either on the brake caliper or at the brake lever itself. If your does not, you can always have them installed in either spot.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Good things gro-oh-ow in Ontario!
    Posts
    382
    Thanks for your advice. I will definitely be taking it to the bike shop. I think there is a barrel adjuster at the brake levers on the handlebars, but I'm afraid to mess with it too much. I'm glad I wasn't going bonkers and cantis can be tricky to deal with.
    "Live, more than your neighbors. Unleash yourself upon the world and go places. Go now! Giggle. Know. Laugh. And bark the the moon like the wild dog that you are!" - Jon Blais

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    355
    In case you are inspired to take it on wrt adjusting the cable at the brake lever/handlebar...

    On the right brake lever (which controls the rear brake), as the cable housing exits the lever, you will see (and have seen) the cable adjuster. The cable adjuster is simply a hollow bolt screwed into the brake lever, into which the cable housing (and cable) goes. To create more slack in the cable to allow you to release your rear brake, you simply need to screw the adjuster "in" towards the brake lever. this means turning it in a clockwise direction toward the brake lever.

    Usually there is a slightly larger cylindrical knurled piece/threaded washer that bumps up against the brake lever, locking the adjuster and preventing it from vibrating loose. Before moving the cable adjuster, you will probably need to back this washer off the brake lever a bit, i.e., turn it a few turns in the counter-clockwise direction, moving it away from the brake lever. Once you have done this the cable adjuster is free to move and you can simply turn it towards the brake lever to create some cable slack. Try turning it two revolutions at first, and see if that creates enough slack to release the cable at the brake end. If not, keep going until you do have enough slack.

    Once you have your rear wheel back in the bike and have re-attached the cable to the rear brake, you can re-establish the original cable tension by just backing off the adjuster (now turning it counter clockwise) the same number of revolutions as you screwed it in.

    It is not hard to do but also not easy to describe in words. If you do take it to a shop, ask them to show you how to do this, as it is easy to show you in person, will take 30 seconds, and once you know, you will have the ability to do what you intended: change the rear tire/tube.
    Last edited by lunacycles; 12-16-2008 at 06:08 AM.

 

 

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