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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    150

    Smile Just got a mountain bike! Now what?

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    Hi there,

    I'm pretty new to this forum. I've been doing casual road riding and triathlons for 2 years.

    Went on a mountain bike ride 3 weeks ago, got HOOKED, and now I own a used, hardtail Specialized Hardrock that has been immaculately maintained!

    So. What advice might you have for a road biker who is still pretty clueless about mountain biking?

    Here are some initial questions.

    Carrying water. I notice some mountain bikers don't bother with water cages - they use camelbaks. Never having used a camelbak, even for trail running, I'm not sure what is the advantage of it? Is it because your bottle could get dirty in the bottle cage on a muddy trail? Or...? I am skeptical because I don't like the feeling of a sweaty backpack on my back. But trying to be open minded.

    Night illumination. I'd like to try night riding. But most of those bright lights seem to cost like $300. Whereas my little Cateye does not illuminate - it just blinks for other riders/drivers to see. Is there a happy (affordable) medium?

    Maintenance. Is there anything I need to know about mountain bike maintenance that I don't (I mean should) know about road bike maintenance? If the bike gets muddy and I need to hose it down, are there parts I should try not to hose?

    How often do innertubes blow out (compared to road biking) - how many do you usually carry with you?

    Fit. What I heard is that the saddle should be SLIGHTLY lower than for a road bike, so that I can maneuver more easily (stick my butt back, etc.).

    Bay Area folks. Are there cycling groups in the Bay Area that do newbie friendly mountain bike rides? It looks like Velo Girls has some rides.

    Anything else you would like to share with a total newbie?

    Thanks!
    Mariposa

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    293
    Congrats on the new bike! I'm not sure I'm the best to offer advise, but here it is for what it's worth.

    I personally use a camelbak for mtn biking. Reaching for a water bottle isn't easy, while riding, on the mtn bike. At least I cannot do it. I do, however, have a bottle cage on my bike. It's a nice option to have though.

    The camelbak also serves a dual purpose of carrying tools, spare tubes, food, clothing...etc.

    For night riding, you definitely need a good light. Not necessarily an expensive light. I'm sure someone here will have some recommendations for you. I have a NiteRider HID system, it is super bright!

    We keep our bikes pretty clean. The only time we hose them off, is if they are muddy. Otherwise, we just wipe it down. If you get it wet, make sure you dry it off. You don't want parts to rust. Keep your chain clean & lubed.

    Don't want to jinx myself, but I've had less than a handfull of flats on my mtn bike, in 3 years time. I think a lot of it depends on keeping the right psi in the tires. If it's too low, you'll get a pinch flat. Also, depends on the area you'll be riding, if there's a lot of thorns...etc.

    Saddle height is personal preference, I think. There are people that run the same saddle height for all there bikes and those that don't. Being a roadie, you know you don't want the saddle too low. I'd just play around with it and wee what feels good.

    I don't have any other advise, except to get out there and have a good time! I went from mtn to road and never had a problem. The reverse, I think could be a little more difficult. I love them both for different reasons. Good luck.

    Kerry

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    555
    Now, on to your questions....

    For water, I also use a hydration pack. I find it just easier to deal with. I find reaching down on tight single track difficult and it's easier to put my spare tube, tools, etc in. When I first used one, it caused a back ache and was unconfortable, but after adjusting it some, I forget it's there. Also, the bottle does get dirty, but if you don't put your mouth on it and just squeeze the water out, it isn't bad.

    For night riding, to keep it short and simple, I would recommend a 10W halogen bulb. They aren't too expensive and provide adequate lighting. 5W halogen won't really be enough light, a HID is awesome, but expensive. I currently use a NiteRider Evolution and it works well, I have never felt I needed more light. My husband is using the CatEye DoubleShot and is very happy with it's performance.

    I cringe when people talk about hosing down their bike. I honestly never do. I let the mud dry on then just wipe it off with a rag. I'll use bike cleaner and rag to clean the frame and then lube up the drive train. If you must hose down your bike, just don't use pressure and I would recommend lubing up the cables afterward. We have customers that neglect their cables after hosing off the bike after every ride and their bikes look clean but the cables are all rusted in a few months. Just drip a little lube on the cables near the housing and shift or squeeze the brakes to work it in.

    I only carry one tube. I rarely get a flat. Actually, I get more flats on the road than the trail.

    Play around with saddle height and see what you like. I keep both road and off road bike at the same height.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Cobar NSW Australia
    Posts
    69
    I hose my bike after a muddy ride while the mud is still fresh and comes off easily, try not to have it pressurized though.

    When I do a proper wash I use a bucket of soapy water, wet it with a hose first and also rinse the soapy water off with the hose after and then wipe it down well, lube the chain etc.

    Job done most often is probably lubing and cleaning the chain - if you don't have already get a sram quicklink or something like that, means you can remove your chain easily for cleaning. Although since I started using Prolink lube I've found that I don't need to take the chain off. Wax based lubes are better in that way but you may need to lube it more often than if you use a wet lube like Finishline. You'll figure out what works best for you - but it will get dirtier than the road bike.

    I use a camelback mule, since getting it would never go back to bottles. Fits all my emrgency spare typre & tools etc - and I take it even on 1hr rides. Main reasons is that it can be tricky to grab a bottle & drink while riding and yes also the fact that it can get dusty muddy etc.

    Get yourself a good pair of glove if you don't have them already.

    I don't do night riding so can't help there. Saddle height will depend on how technical your trails get - for steep dh types and lots of rocks etc you will find it's better to run it a bit lower than you would on the road bike (or in some cases alot lower) but yeah just experiment, it's the best way to figure it out.

    That's about it - oh and for trails you'll probably want to run lower pressure in your tires, I usually run the lowest specified number on the tire sidewall (about 35psi) but depends on your weight too as to what you can get away with. Lower pressure equals better grip, higher pressure probably gives better rolling resistance, so depends on your trials too.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Tustin, CA
    Posts
    1,308
    Welcome to MTB riding!

    1) Camelbaks are essential. It helps you carry more water and aso makes it easier for you to drink. With rough trails it's sometimes hard to keep a bottle in a cage. Plus with MTB riding I find I have to carry tools and tubes,etc. The Camelbak gives me the space. Also get in the habit of carrying first aid. Not that you'll need it but just in case. Seems like I always do. I good size Camelbak is the MULE.

    2) Cleaning the bike - I never ever use water. Learned a lesson years ago when I had to rebuild a bike as the bottom bracket got all messed up from hosing the bike with water. I now allow the mud to dry an then just brush/wipe it off. I lube the chain (properly and patiently) after each ride so it stays clean. It is a MTBike so doesn't have to be sparkly clean for every ride but the drivechain should be wiped down before each ride to prevent mechanical problems and wear and tear. Invest in Pro-Link and good Park Cleaning brushes. A Park stand is also wonderful to have.

    3)Lights - invest in a good one - no way around that. Good lights mean good visibility. End of sentence.

    4) What to carry" at least one inner tube (but I usually have 2), changing irons, fuel (such as GU, power bar etc), a small amt of lube, FIRST AID, ID, a tool kit (small portable one - can't tell you how often I've needed to make repairs on the trail), tweezers (to take out thorns).

    5) Fit is kindof personal. I usually replace the seat post clamp with an adjustable one (usually a Hope - it's nice and blingy). The rule is to lower your seat post when descending. I usually don't. I tend to ride with my seat lower than I would normally if on the road. Since you are riding a hardtail, you will be getting off and back from the saddle while descending so make sure the saddle is low enough so you can clear it.

    6) Get out and ride. Start easy in your comfort level and then start adding skills, such as rock gardens, logs, obstrucles etc. I used to set up a little training course to practice. I think up your way there are lots of training offered. Just keep your eyes peeled.

    Have fun!!! Nothing like riding a beautiful trail!

    PS: Good MTB gloves are the WTB Mojaves...
    Last edited by bcipam; 12-07-2006 at 08:45 AM.
    BCIpam - Nature Girl

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    373
    Hi, welcome to the rough stuff.

    Another vote for Camelbaks here for all the reasons above as well as the fact that on rough descents your bottle can part company from the cage (and you will try and look back at it and almost crash!, best avoided). The size of Camelbak you require should be dictated by how long your ride is and weather conditions, closeness to civilisation etc - I use a HAWG, a Mule is just pointless for me especially at this time of year. On weekend rides I'll carry 3 litres of water (100 oz) and a lot of stuff. We ride in the middle of nowhere for up to 6 hours so need to be self sufficient.

    As you've never used a Camelbak before, build up the amount of water and gubbins you carry as your back will not be used to it.

    Don't see any problem with hosing a bike off, we do it all the time but then it is very very rare we come back from a ride, even in the summer, and the bike doesn't need a good clean. My BF is a good bike mechanic so keeps everything running well.

    As alluded to above my carried kit is quite comprehensive - built up over time from experiencing things going wrong:

    Warm waterproof in winter or windproof in summer
    Gillet
    Couple of buffs
    Spare gloves
    Two spare tubes, puncture repair kit and tyre levers
    Spare chain links/powerlink
    Multitool
    Food (lots)
    Emergency Gels
    Phone
    Change for payphone
    Mech hanger for my Titus (My On One is steel and can be bent back)
    Spare brake pads
    Spare bearings for my crank brothers pedals.

    I keep my spare clothing in a dry bag.

    Kit should be built up over time but if your only popping out for an hour or so on trails near civilisation then you probably won't need as much. A tool and some tubes I would say are essential.


    I have all my bike saddles at the same height and rarely put it down but I have narrow sitbones and ride a quite narrow saddle (a men's flite) therefore can get off the back easily enough - if you have a wider saddle it gets more difficult.

    I use a HID for off road night riding (and commuting), its very bright and has a long burn time - 5 hours so I don't have to worry about it cutting out as our longest night ride is about 2.5 hours.

    Most of all as bcipam said - get out and ride, its the only way to discover what you really need.

    I'm always amazed at how gear heavy mountain biking is, I tend to forget as I've accumulated mine over a few years. My list of what would be essential for a newbie mountain biker coming our with us is quite long, mainly due to the UKs changeable weather!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,940
    I agree with most all that has been said, except, no hose....brush....

    And lights, gotta have good ones. Gotta. We got NightRider trail Rats. One for the helmet and one for the bars. DH got'em on ebay. Less that 1/2 price. He is the man!

    Other than that....have fun, and keep us posted.

    Oh and I ride my seat lower on both mt bikes than I do on my road bike....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    150

    Wow, thanks...

    ...this is a lot to absorb!

    One last question. For road biking I wear fingerless gloves during the warm months. I am wondering if you do this for mountain biking or if you always prefer full-fingered. I guess this is because of the increased likelihood of taking a fall on a mtn bike.

    Thanks.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Tustin, CA
    Posts
    1,308
    Quote Originally Posted by mariposa View Post
    ...this is a lot to absorb!

    One last question. For road biking I wear fingerless gloves during the warm months. I am wondering if you do this for mountain biking or if you always prefer full-fingered. I guess this is because of the increased likelihood of taking a fall on a mtn bike.

    Thanks.
    Mariposa - check out the Mojaves I mentioned. The thumb is full and the fingers 3/4 and reinforced. Alot of MTB riders use full fingered gloves. Depending on my ride, I do as well. For so many reasons including falls but also riding through thick brush, dealing with stickers, etc.
    BCIpam - Nature Girl

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Cobar NSW Australia
    Posts
    69
    I think full fingered offer more protection (especially if you're riding around trees / bushes / shrubs and of course in a fall, and mainly better grip (on the brake lever etc) particularly when your hands get sweaty.

    I find the Troy Lee XC glove to be very good - breathable, not a huge amount of padding etc. My last set lasted 5yrs (probably 3yrs riding to be fair) and I recently upgraded to the new ones (same model). Something I did notice - having black gloves is hotter than say blue etc.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Ventura County CA
    Posts
    605
    So... what's a gillet and a couple of buffs?

    I never even think about my camelback when it's on. 100oz, and sometimes I'm sucking air at the end of a ride. I pack it with ice and water so it actually helps keep me cool.

    Packing it is like backpacking- easy to over-weight it. I carry a tube, patches, multitool, pump, levers, first aid kit, a snack, phone, ID and health insurance card, emergency numbers, poison oak wash. Need to throw in a space blanket and a radio. That's about it. I don't carry lots of food, don't seem to need more than some sport drink and some fig newtons or a banana for a four hour ride. A shorter ride I don't eat anyway.

    Find some gals to ride with and have fun, They can show you the ropes and keep you safe too.

    It's a good idea to know some trailside maintenence. Today I had to pull out my disk brake pads and get some crud off them. They were making a horrible racket!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    373
    Quote Originally Posted by fatbottomedgurl View Post
    So... what's a gillet and a couple of buffs?
    I call it a gillet - you'll call it a vest! A buff is, well a buff:

    http://www.buffusa.com/

    I use one under my helmet when cold and sometimes one as a "scarf" round my neck to keep the wind out. Absolutely fantastic things, I use it for running to keep my hair out of my face, hiking, climbing,....

    I forgot to say I carry lots of food because I prefer to eat than use energy drink (unless its a multi day event or something).

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Off eating cake.
    Posts
    1,700
    Quote Originally Posted by rocknrollgirl View Post
    I agree with most all that has been said, except, no hose....brush....
    If you can get away without using the hose, it's certainly better, but some kinds of mud (like everything I've ever encountered in the UK) require either a whole lot of water and elbow grease or a jackhammer to get off.
    Drink coffee and do stupid things faster with more energy.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Pendleton, OR
    Posts
    782
    OK--I'm gonna pick this thread back up. I have a new mt. bike, too. Been a road rider. My lbs suggested that I wait before putting clipless pedals on the bike. What do y'all think? I'm certainly used to clipless.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    555
    I would go straight to clipless. If you're used to them already, it shouldn't be too tough. You might fall a couple times, but you'll be fine. Just be sure to start on a beginner trail!

    The only difference between road and off road with clipless is the amount of time to unclip. Normally on the road you have some time to unclip, you can think about it, for off road though you have more moments where it's just instinct. If you're used to your pedals though and it's intuitive for you to twist your ankle to get out, I don't think you'll have any problems.

 

 

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