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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    29

    Just how important is that 1 inch of clearance anyway?

    So, I'm 5 1" and recently went to get fitted for a road bike. 1st shop recommended a 43-44cm as on the 47 there was not really an entire inch of clearance when standing up. To be honest, it was pretty close. The shop did not have a 43-44 in anything for me to sit on/try out. Went to a second shop who also recommended a 43-44...but again nothing to test out. Called about 5 shops close to me...nothing. (I could order something and pay deposits at most of these stores...I wanted to try to find something though)

    A friend in a nearby state found a bikeshop near here that has a leftover 2005 43"...seems from the descriptions like it's a good enough bike for someone like me just starting out (it's a Trek 2100).

    But...I guess it's important to have that inch clearance right? Also, the first bike shop guy was concerned that the pedal at the bottom of the spin would be too low (and he'd have to move the seat down too far...apparently you aren't supposed to lower the seat past a certain point on a bike?)...although there were no pedals on the bike at the moment.

    Does anyone here ride on a bike that doesn't have an inch clearance

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    8,548
    a lot of people believe that you need the biggest frame you can get into height wise, the problem with women isn't that clearance, it's the top tube.
    There is an article on the Rivendell website about the frame size thing (not women issues though)
    so if you can barely clear it, it's probably a fit... but then the top tube. are you stretching your back too far? how are your hands?
    Mimi Team TE BIANCHISTA
    for six tanks of gas you could have bought a bike.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    8,548

    here:

    http://www.rivbike.com/html/101_pureopinions.html
    ps rivendell makes very expensive custom bikes.


    Fit and Sizing.
    These are the most important aspects of any bike, and the most misunderstood. Most people buy bikes too small. If you’re over 6ft 4in, it’s a sure bet, because bikes don’t come big enough for you. Basically, bikes were originally designed for underfed Europeans, and the sizing hasn’t changed since, at least in the mainstream. But even normal-sized and small folks ride bikes too small.

    Around here we joke that “we like to put people on bikes that are too big,” but what we really mean by that is “your bike shop and local fit guru may think it’s too big, but we know better.”

    We have too much to say about fit and sizing to include it all here (see our print catalogue or elsewhere online). But basically it goes like this: You will be more comfortable if the handlebar is as high or higher than the saddle; and that relationship is hard to achieve on most bikes, because they were designed by folks who don’t think that’s important.

    To determine your saddle height: see our print catalogue. You do not benefit from an in-person, hands-on, expensive and industrialized and gadget-dependent bike fitting session if the specialist is following a routing with a fundamental flaw or bi


    as built right into it, and they all have that.
    Mimi Team TE BIANCHISTA
    for six tanks of gas you could have bought a bike.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    North Central Florida
    Posts
    3,387
    Is the Trek 2100 the WSD? If so, that's the same as my bike and several others on here. I _love_ that bike, and wouldn't consider it "entry level" at all!!
    ***********
    "...I'm like the cycling version of the guy in Flowers for Algernon." Mike Magnuson

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    8,548
    here's the rest:
    http://www.rivbike.com/html/bikes_riv5.html


    The road bike, for the most part, has devolved into a high tech, uncomfortable machine, and the proof is all around us. Look through any bike magazine or catalogue and you’ll see saddles up to 6 inches higher than the handlebars. It is impossible to be comfortable on such a bike. It forces you to lean forward, putting more weight on your genitals, hands, and arms. The lower part of the drops are out of reach. People ride these bikes with straight, locked-out arms and wake up with aching backs. They endure it, get used to it, or buy recumbents.
    Mimi Team TE BIANCHISTA
    for six tanks of gas you could have bought a bike.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    WA State
    Posts
    4,364
    The clearance is kind of important - banging yourself on the top tube can be very very uncomfortable (I know this from experience - rode a silly race that involved sharing a single speed coaster bike with 3 team mates and it was waaaay to big for me - help I can't get down!!) and much more likely to happen if you don't have any clearance....., but more important if the bike is that big on you does it fit anywhere else either? If it is too long you'll be robbing yourself of power and creating an uncomfortable riding situation for the rest of your body too.

    (though I have to disagree with Riv's fitting philosophy too - I had a shop recommend and put on a longer stem on my old old bike to try to relieve some shoulder pain I was experiencing. Well sitting more upright did nothing for the shoulder and made my back and butt hurt too. They make beautiful bikes, but it annoys me that they seem so adamant that their way is the only way....fit the bike to the person riding it - not the way you like to ride)
    Last edited by Eden; 07-19-2006 at 11:52 AM.
    "Sharing the road means getting along, not getting ahead" - 1994 Washington State Driver's Guide

    visit my flickr stream http://flic.kr/ps/MMu5N

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Lakewood, Co
    Posts
    1,061

    Inseam measurement

    Here's an article that tells how to measure your inseam and determine your saddle height. Use it as a starting point. Most bicycle companies websites will give you the standover height of the bike. Look at the geometry of the frame. You can also compare tt length, headtube height, etc.

    http://www.active.com/story.cfm?stor...tegory=cycling

    Another great article on how women's fitting,

    http://www.active.com/story.cfm?stor...tegory=cycling

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    29
    Quote Originally Posted by Nanci
    Is the Trek 2100 the WSD? If so, that's the same as my bike and several others on here. I _love_ that bike, and wouldn't consider it "entry level" at all!!

    First of all...thanks for all of the advice/opinions...you girls are great! Keep them coming

    And yes, it's a 2005 2100 WSD...with a discounted price so if I can get it I will...it did "read" nice anyway.

    (Some back history, I just did my first duathlon on a mtb a couple of weeks ago and did not like getting passed by all of you roadies ...so I'm hoping to shave 10 minutes off my bike time by riding a fancy new road bike. With only 4 training rides I did 17 miles in about an hour on the mtb....but that was saving my legs a little for the 5K afterwards)

    I guess I really dont want a bike that's too big. Is the first shop guy right...if I need to lower the seat "too much" that's bad (again, another issue besides the bar was that he didn't think my feet would reach all the way down on the down stroke).

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    8,548
    why don't you just make him put some pedals on the bike so you can see whether or not you can reach the bottom of the pedal stroke?
    Mimi Team TE BIANCHISTA
    for six tanks of gas you could have bought a bike.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    2,556
    If you have a bare 1 inch of standover clearance, you'll be OK mounting and dismounting on flat ground. It's on hills where that clearance gets smaller and
    maybe your body and the top tube meet. For years I rode a bike with a 23 inch
    seat tube, and my inseam is 32 inches, leaving me with about 1/2 inch of clearance.
    You can learn to be careful on the hills and tip the bike further to mount and dismount,
    but occassionally you'll make contact. For me it was never hard contact or enough
    to cause real pain. I suggest taking the bike to a steep hill and practicing there to see if you have really enough clearance. Try both with 2 feet on the ground and with one foot on pedal/one foot on ground. Of course, other frame dimensions are important too, and you might be prepared to compomise down to 1/2 inch of standover to get the other dimension right if you are confident in the dismounting on hills.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Gloucester, MA
    Posts
    140
    Hi GirlWonder,

    I had the same dilema when I was bike shopping. I tried the 47 (WSD)and to me it felt too big because I didn't have much clearance over the top tube. So I went to another shop and they suggested I try the 44(WSD). I rode it around the parking lot but I was really scrunched on it. I felt like I was on a kid's bike. The sales person where I tried the 44 insisted that they could fit it properly but I didn't like the feel. I went back to the first store and tried the 47 (Trek Pilot WSD) again and the salesperson there (different person than first time) explained how the fit works. I ended up buying the 47 with a shortened stem, adjusted seat, and shims in the brakes. Not that I have a lot of experience but after 700 miles on it, I feel that it fits me just right.

    This may work differently for you. I suggest you at least try out the 44 before jumping in.

    Good luck,
    Patty

 

 

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