buying a new bike

[rain]

I need to buy a new bike. My current bike is amazing, but after a bike fit and tight shoulders it's clear that the length between the seat and my handlebars is not long enough. It didn't used to bother me as long as I was riding more upright which for slower rides is actually still very nice.
I'm wondering, how do I figure out the frame size/specs I need?

The other issue is I'm a solid 12 - 14mph rider. I can hold onto 15 on a very flat flat. This pace is fine by me, but as another rider posted, there aren't a lot of riders in the 12 - 15 range. Most are either slower (and beginners) or faster. So I'm thinking about getting a faster bike as well, so that I can ride in the 14 - 17 range.
I really prefer to ride with groups so this is actually a big issue for me. Is this reasonable?

My current bike is an 8 year old OCR1 Giant.

Thanks for your thoughts.

[deanywalker21]

I just purchased a new MTB as my Trek was too small. I have been having knee problems (old injury acting up). I noticed that even after 5 miles on the mtb I was hurting. While the stand over height was correct the distance between the handlebar and saddle was too short. After a tune up bike fitting I was faster on the trek and my peddle stoke was stronger however the bike still felt too small. The gal that did the re-fitting recommended a Specialized Myka if I decide to replace the Trek 4500. Saturday I caught a great deal on the Myka Elite. I am a bit faster, no knee pain, and can even tell in my shoulders and arms that the fit is better. With that all said, I believe that a better fit will make me a slightly faster rider (I am 12 - 13 mph rider).

I have owned two Giant bikes, an FCR 1 that I loved and a Cypres that I never fell in love with. I seem to be getting a better fit with the Specialized brand.

Deany

"A girl can never have too many bicycles"

2005 Giant FCR 1 (re-homed)
2007 Trek 4500 MTB (abandoned)
2008 Specialized Ruby Comp
2012 Specialized Vita Elite
2013 Specialized Myka Elite

[Skippyak]

I am not sure a new bike is going to give you 3mph of speed, that is on you (the engine). You could drop maybe 2 or 3+ pounds off your bike weight but that is a good poop and a water bottle. Getting a new bike is always a good plan LOL, but don't think there is going to be some miraculous speed increase. So looking at something more aero and lighter with optimal gearing is probably only going to be limited by your budget and comfort in position on a racier bike, the point of fitting, it would seem to me as someone whose DH does the tweaks and has bought bikes online, is not to retrofit a badly sized bike but to ensure the bike you are going to buy fits you and the is the geo you want. So if you are generally clueless you want to find a really reputable bike store to do that before you buy, and speak with the person who fit your old bike for advice, you already paid for that? .

[rain]

Thanks for your thoughts. I'll have to see how it goes when I'm test riding.

I'm really mystified by why there are so few people who seem to ride around 13mph... that would really solve this whole problem

Alright, I'm off to study geometry because the shoulder/back discomforts I'm dealing with are only going to be solved with a new bike.

[kajero]

What's really even more maddening is when people on roller blades outdistancing me!!!

[TrekDianna]

I'm really mystified by why there are so few people who seem to ride around 13mph... that would really solve this whole problem

I've been told I ride like a distracted 3 year old. I'm going along a a decent pace then slow to a crawl to look at things.

[kajero]

TrekDianna

Where do you find space to store so many bikes? And all those 2013s . . . you are so lucky!

I inherited $$ when my Dad passed away. Unfortunately, I kind of lost my job (fired) in July and need to use it to live on. If that hadn't happened . . . (unemployment doesn't quite cover everything.)

The reason I have a 2014 is because my Ruby was stolen. I bought the new TREK Domane to replace it. I didn't even take it out of the shop because we went on vacation the day after I bought it. The Ruby was recovered and returned. I couldn't return the newly purchased bike and didn't need two roadies, so I bought the TREK. Most of the LBS here will not let you return a bike for cash but you can return the bike and put the amount against another bike. I was lucky the dealer reimbursed the difference 0f $830. Of course, approximately 1/3 of that was spent on upgrades so I could make the bike work. I think he did that because we bought another $2600 bike to replace my SO's bike which was also stolen, recovered and returned to us. We are in the process of selling his old bicycle.

[Owlie]

I've been told I ride like a distracted 3 year old. I'm going along a a decent pace then slow to a crawl to look at things.

I do that too. I can manage a good clip on flat ground, but then I see something cool and...

[Penny4]

I'm really mystified by why there are so few people who seem to ride around 13mph... that would really solve this whole problem

I agree!! I fall right in between the 12mph'ers and 14mph'ers. So frustrating! Happy bike shopping!

[thekarens]

My fitter can and will do a "pre fit" and tell you what size bike you need for the various brands of bikes you're interested.

I actually gained an average of 2 mph after my fitting. I used to average 13.5 and now average 15, 15.5. I think that it was mostly due to the discomfort and pain. Once I got rid of that I was able to go faster.

[rain]

thanks thekarens. I was wondering if that ever happened.

I did get my bike fitted because of pain, which lessened, but having learned that the top tube was too short I started to ride more upright so I wouldn't aggravate my back. But that affects speed. (The bike didn't bother me for the first 4 years I owned it because I didn't try to lean forward.)

This post has got me thinking... I initially thought I wanted a new bike to "go faster" but I think I really want a new bike that fits my current body and riding style. Which has changed a lot over the last 8 years.

[Skippyak]

I wouldn't even know how to work out what group to join based on MPHs, on a flat century (say 3000 feet or less of climbing ) I would be at least 16 mphs, but around my area where I am often doing 100ft climb per mile, my MPH is not compatible with group classifications. A hilly near century (over 7k of climb/94 miles, was 13.4 mph. I only group ride with a ladies shop ride and it really depends on who turns up as to how fast we go and they are rarely speedy rides. I would like to have the balls to join the local club but this fear of classification is what paralyzes me.