If the ad is correct (which is always questionable on CL
), it says the TOP TUBE length is 50 cm, not the seat tube (or the "virtual" seat tube, or whatever sizing conventions the particular manufacturer uses these days).
I'm 5'3", pretty standard WSD build except that my upper arms (humeri) are extra short compared to my total arm length, and likewise my femurs are extra short compared to my total leg length. I'm okay on a 50 cm Cannondale WSD which has a 50.5 cm top tube, although I could have gone a size smaller.
So IF that's an accurate measurement, it could well be a good fit for your gf.
Other tweaks: she will definitely want to read the saddle fitting threads on this board. Saddle fit (as you probably know from your own experience) is very personal and a lot of trial and error, but if she knows her size and whether or not she needs a cut-out, she can rule out a lot of saddles that are just the wrong size for her.
Handlebar width wouldn't be the first thing I'd worry about unless she's getting specific wrist or elbow discomfort. Most people are comfortable on a pretty wide range of bars, and it's easier to "live with" too wide than too narrow.
Short reach levers is one thing she'll know right away - either she can reach the levers or she can't.
The reach of the bars, placement of the levers, and the shape of the hooks can have a large effect on distance to the levers, as well.
What about the gearing? A standard double seems like it might be a bit much for a new rider in your mountainous area, and converting to a compact would be expensive. When she test rides it, make sure she climbs some hills with a good cadence, and if she's in her lowest gear on hills that aren't the steepest you have in your area, it might not be the best bike for her.
I think if the bike seems like it's in the ballpark when she test rides it, then go for it, and after she's ridden it for a few hundred miles, it's well worth the cost of a fitting. If you don't have a fitter you like, post another message here, there are several TE'rs in the Bay Area who can probably recommend someone.
Oh, last thing - if it really has the original tires, they're probably hard and/or dry-rotted and need to be replaced, regardless of how much tread is on them. The seller doesn't specify the model year, but racing-style bikes have had 10-speed drivetrains for quite a long time. It's not as critical on bicycle tires as it is for motor vehicles, but do check the tires very, very carefully for any sign of age, and if the tread seems hard or chalky when you scratch it with a fingernail, replace them.
ETA: I've been scrolling through Giant's archive trying to find the specs for that bike. I don't see a frameset in that color going back to 2003. But it appears that they started putting 10-speed drivetrains on their higher-end bikes in 2005, and by 2006 they were all 10-speed. It's hard to see from the picture, but if those are bar-end shifters and not STI's, it's 2003 or earlier (and from the fact that I don't see that color in their catalog, I'd guess earlier).
So if those are the original tires, you definitely want to replace them. Also ask what they mean by "recently tuned," and examine the bike closely for evidence. At that age, regardless of mileage, it should have had the cables and housings and the brake pads replaced. Deb can chime in here, but I would think that after 8+ years you'd want to re-pack the bearings as well.
Last edited by OakLeaf; 06-27-2010 at 03:22 AM.
Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler