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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    153

    Taking off pedals

    So my dad and I both made the switch to clipless pedals... sort of. Step 1 was his bike (brand new) and he was the one who actually took the old pedals off with the bike wrench. Then I put on his new pedals and voila - clipless! Then, I went back to my place to do the same to my bike (bought summer '08). Failure. Can't seem to loosen the pedals no matter how hard I try. The truth is, I'm not even sure how I could grease it up so it could come out. I'm thinking of calling a guy friend over to see if someone else has better luck and then taking it to the LBS with my tail between my legs.

    Any advice?
    Life goes by pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, and do whatever you want all the time, you could miss it.

    2010 Fuji Roubaix 1.0
    2007 Fuji Absolute 2.0

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    WA State
    Posts
    4,364
    The biggest thing to remember is that a pedal always threads so that the pedaling action will screw it *in*, which means that they do not both follow the lefty loosey - righty tighty rule. You may actually have been tightening the pedal rather than loosening it..... (I think it is the pedal on the right - with the bike upsidedown - that threads backwards from normal).

    In any case they can just be really tight and difficult to remove. I suggest having a wrench with the longest handle you can find for the most leverage. If the pedal type supports being removed with either/both an allen type head from the outside and a pedal wrench from the inside using both at the same time can help too.
    Last edited by Eden; 04-08-2010 at 08:07 AM.
    "Sharing the road means getting along, not getting ahead" - 1994 Washington State Driver's Guide

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Oslo, Norway
    Posts
    4,066
    Yup, pedals loosen backwards. I have had to lock the other pedal with my knee and stamp on the end of the wrench to loosen the pedal. They can seize up pretty bad. You could try laying the bike down on it's side so that the pedal spindles are vertical, spraying with a thin oil and let sit overnight.
    Winter riding is much less about badassery and much more about bundle-uppery. - malkin

    1995 Kona Cinder Cone commuterFrankenbike/Selle Italia SLR Lady Gel Flow
    2008 white Nakamura Summit Custom mtb/Terry Falcon X
    2000 Schwinn Fastback Comp road bike/Specialized Jett

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    271
    Ummm... Right hand pedal, right hand thread? Left hand pedal, left hand thread I thought?

    So right pedal follows the righty tighty, lefty loosey rule but left pedal is the opposite?

    I have had to remove a few the hard way lately and I confess to using instruments of mass destruction to do so. I put the spanner on and gently tapped the end of it with a heavy copper mallet. Have never had a failure with this method and the copper mallet is soft enough not to damage DH's precious spanners!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Oslo, Norway
    Posts
    4,066
    That's right, pinkbikes, the righthand pedal loosens by turning the wrench counter-clockwise, the lefthand pedal loosens by turning the wrench clockwise, what I call "backwards" (the opposite of the pedalling direction). I have a Park Tool pedal spanner with a long handle, never had to stamp on that
    Winter riding is much less about badassery and much more about bundle-uppery. - malkin

    1995 Kona Cinder Cone commuterFrankenbike/Selle Italia SLR Lady Gel Flow
    2008 white Nakamura Summit Custom mtb/Terry Falcon X
    2000 Schwinn Fastback Comp road bike/Specialized Jett

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Uncanny Valley
    Posts
    14,498
    It takes a lot of leverage, and it looks like your multi-tool is probably pretty hard to get a good grip on. If you have a length of pipe that will slip over the end of it, try that to get a longer lever.

    Honestly, most of the time I need DH's help to hold the other pedal (and when I don't, I worry that the pedals were loose ), even though I've got reasonable upper body strength and most of the experienced wrenches here will tell you I shouldn't need the help. I think some of it just depends on your frame, too, the size and geometry, how hard it is to reach through it and get a good angle on both pedals.

    Then before you go to install the new pedals, put some anti-seize lubricant on the threads. If you've never done it before: use a very light coating - get a small dot of it on your finger (wearing thin gloves), smear it on the threads of the spindle, and use an old toothbrush to distribute it through the threads from inside to outside. Not so critical when it's a pedal and crankarm, obviously, but just a good habit to get into when you apply anti-seize.
    Speed comes from what you put behind you. - Judi Ketteler

 

 

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